20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel Fisher & Paykel Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The seals have perished and need replacing contact f&p service with model no and purchase new ones. Udo control panel after disconnecting power to machine .Water valves held in by 3 screws and 2 control wires

i am sorry to say there is no reset switch if u are geting power to the unit and the display is not coming on then u have a bad control board located in the front panel.

Hi

The power board is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Spin the fan on water pump (you can acess with difficulty from bottom of washer) if it has a little sand in it, it may clear. It is possible to remove water pump if mechanically minded and see if something small eg staple or 5c coin is stuck in it if this dosn't work or you may find you need to replace water pump.

No, not the supply lines, the are selonoid controlled by the timer. however the drain line MUST be higher the clothes drum or the water will siphon drain out.

bb.

FIRST - remove plug from wall, then open lid and remove the rubber bungs that the front of the lid sits on, under them is 2 screws, remove them. Lift the complete upper plastic portion and rotate back against the wall. Remove the screw from inside the agitator and remove the agitator completly. Remove the bowl top cover by unclipping it from around the outer edge all the way round, note the spring position for refitting, lift out the bowl top cover and set aside. Remove bowl, can be tricky but it should lift right out. With the bowl removed, remove the large phillips screw from the plastic cover over the pump, with the screw removed, the pump cover will pull out (up) and the pump can be cleaned out.
Make sure that you clean out the channels that the water flows through around the pump impellor. refit the pump cover, ensure the rubber ring is in correct position, and secure with the screw. Reassemble in reverse order.

Test the pump for operation before doing a full load.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not go to spin or release the door lock if there is water still left inside.
Here are my complete and general pre-typed (!) guidance notes for checking both the drain filter and the drain motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hi

Paul...the issue is with the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Power surge also destroyed the board. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

The scum is probably a build-up from excessive detergent and fabric softener. Using a bleach will not really help as it is also an alkali. You need an acid based cleaner to break down the alkali based detergent. Pour a bottle of vinegar into the machine and let it fill with water and carry out a wash cycle, do not add any other chemicals. (If possible even let the machine stand a while with the solution in it.) After the machine has finished its cycle, carry out another cycle with baking soda added to the water and let it do a short cycle to neutralise the vinegar. This should break down the scum, but repeat the process if necessary.

It is likely that the cold water proportional valve is faulty especially when the 3rd , 4th, and 8th LEDs (from left to right) of the Wash Progress LEDs are lit or flashing to indicate fault code 49 (cold water valve fault). This valve is proportional and regulates water temperature by opening the valve partially depending on the set water temperature. Check the wire harness connection between the valves and the motor controller module and make sure they are tight and snug.

The second possible issue here is the NTC water temperature sensor which is the thermistor located on the water inlet chamber where the water valves are installed. It is possible that the thermistor resistance is high or open which makes the motor controller module "thinks" that the water temperature is too cold for the setting then limits the cold water by opening the cold water valve minimally. Measure the resistance of the thermistor which is normally 10000 ohms at 25 degrees centigrade (77 degrees Fahrenheit). Replace the thermistor if the resistance reading is open, higher than normal, or doesn't drop as the temperature rises.

Replace the cold water valve if the thermistor is good. Indicate explicitly which among the Wash Progress LEDs are lit or flashing when a fault occurs and let us know if you need further advice. Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from communicating with the expert. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Fault code 39 is a pressure tube fault which means the the pressure tube has become blocked or kinked or has fallen off completely. Check first and make sure the pressure tube, the clear small hose running from the motor controller module to the bottom of the tub, is not blocked/kinked, not air leaks, no moisture, and properly attached to both the motor controller module and the tub. Replace the pressure if leaking or clear it if blocked or has moisture.

The pressure sensor is at fault if there's no any issue found with the pressure tube. But the pressure sensor is an integral part of the motor controller which make s replacing it as the only viable solution.

hi there
you most likely have a problem with your lid switch(reed switch), the easyiest and cheapest way to solve this is to turn the machine off at the wall, open the lid, there will be 2 buttons at the front where the lid sits take these out with a small flat bladed screw driver, there will be a screw under each of these buttons take the screws out and the plastic top hob should lift up off the cabnet of the machine, down the right hand side of the hob you should see a small black probe looking thing in a creal plastic looking case with a black wire and a red or blue wire this is the lid switch it works off a magnet in the lid, now to solve the problem you can either trace the wires back to the motor controller(electronic board) and replace the reed switch or trace the wires back to the motor controller and join them together.

Really hope this helps you out.

Nick

this is a sign that the hot/cold mix valve is bad and not opening properly.
the valve is the small plastic part that both hoses go into on the back of the machine,, if you remove the two hoses and the back panel from the machine - the valve is held in place by one little screw. there are four wires that connect to the valve -- make sure you label the hot water wires and the cold water wires. your local appliance repair shop will have this part on hand and they will sell it to you for around 25 dollars.

c...

now the machine becomes old so try not to put heavy cloth load in it .it face difficult to spin.try putting less cloth one time.

Hi, check the reed switch under the lid,and the out of balance switch under the lower board they may be rusty so the machine thinks the lid is open causing this fault

3,5,7,8 code lights indicate an "out of balance fault" Fault 43 according to F&P, It is not a hard job to fix, you will need a new/second hand micro-switch and possibly 2 female spade electrical connectors,a pair of crimping pliers, a star/philips head screwdriver,and a flat blade screwdriver.
Firstly you need to electrically isolate the machine, ie. pull the plug from the power outlet. Then remove the 2 screws at the back of the control panel, lift from the back and it unclips at the front, lay it on its face. We need to get access to the out of balance switch which it to the right of and under the electrionic control box. Remove the single screw holding the electonics box(black box) and move wires so as to allow the box to be lifted up just enough out of the way to access the switch. Use a flat blade srewdriver or strong fingers to unclip and remove the microswitch, replace the switch but inspect the spade terminals for corrosion, replace if corroded. There is a waterproof upgrade for this problem from your dealer. Or you can do what I did and get some spare switches from other electronic devices, they are quite common. The part number for the switches I used was 120727C.

I have the same problem, any solutions would be greatly appreciated

Hi I have a GW708U Model. The lights on the display panel come on and then nothing happens when you hit the Start button. Any suggestions welcome.

Hi, since the water valve is the only thing that is activated during fill it has got to be the valve. Sometimes valves get creak noise when the strainers are clogged and the valve is not getting enough water pressure. But you are saying it has a creaky noise when it is filling on hot, which fills fine. I suggest removing the fill hoses (hoses that connect to the wall) and replacing or cleaning the little strainers inside them. Also there is a strainer in the connector of the valve, clean it. It is ok to remove the strainers to clean them but do not leave them out because they are to protect the valve. If trash gets into the valve it can stick and flood your house.
If cleaning the strainers doesn't correct the problem replace the water valve.

Secondly, if a washing machine is rumbling, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Thirdly, it's slow to fill Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.