20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/partmanuals/IWL12US.pdf
Supplementary service manual below... above is the usual one... http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/thehomesmithy/2010-12-19_141627_gwl11_iwl12_iwl15_suppliment_togwl03_manual_.pdf

Hi, well this Beeping, simply indicates a "Fault" however it gives NO indication of what? It maybe a sensor, the main board, the motor? but it could be many many things unfortunately. What you need to do is either DIY troubleshoot or call a professional, it is really that simple.
http://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/



above is a DIY help website to assist you in troubleshooting, use the manual to isolate and hopefully repair your unit.
However if you don't wish to DIY the to get the best and cheapest outcome, is to contact an F&P local or head office, and ask for a referral to an authorised service center, now when in contact here ask for a service call, however ONLY ask for a "Quote" as to costings, now when you are appraised of these then one can make up ones mind as to what to do, repair or replace?

Hi cdriver- this is a first! - I know of black/grey sand like substances inside F&P washers coming from inside damaged bellows. The only way to find out for sure is to actually remove the inner bowl out of the machine, an outside chance of nasties build up beneath.

If you wish to DIY then I will guide you thru - let me know or look up the other postings in regards to Fisher & Paykels - the instructions have been posted here and there.

Please be careful - make sure power is off, if you aint too sure do not proceed as you could be worse off.

Hi - sounds like the mmotor control module is faulty - also pay to check the drain pump as they are used to shunt the power supply to the contoller.

its got a bad read sensor it needs to be cleaned its under the capstan drive motor take the part out and clean is ir readers

Check the breaker panel to ensure that there's power to the room that the washer is in, alternatively, ensure that the plug is in correctly and receiving power.

Your timer is bad. There are little contacts inside a timer mechanism and that part is bad.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France, Frid afternoon, 14:20

Is there power at the socket? Try with another device- a kettle for instance.
If there is power, I would suggest you will need a service call to you washer ;-0(

If there isn't power to the socket, check the main fuse/breaker. If the fuse has blown or the breaker has tripped replace fuse, reset breaker.

If there is a (serious) fault with your washer the fuse will blow again/ the breaker will trip. Once again you will need a service call ;-0(

Sorry I can't help further.
Best of luck,

John C

It has been known that electrical and/or water damage in the drain pump motor leads to the failure of the motor controller module. The drain pump must have been replaced when error code 37 appeared and water leak is observed including water and/or electrical damage. The motor controller module must have burned out causing the machine not to work at all and the only viable solution is replacing it. Disconnect power then raise the console up to access, inspect and/or replace the motor controller module.You should find burn marks when closely inspecting both sides of the board. But the drain pump must be replaced first before replacing the motor controller module.

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It's error code 37 and it means pump blocked error. Either the drain hose is clogged or kinked, the diverter valve has failed, or the pump itself is restricted or not working at all. Check to make sure that the drain hose is clear then disconnect power and lay the machine on its front on a cushioned surface to access the drain pump and the diverter valve. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and clear them from any debris that may prevent water from draining out. Check the impeller for any damage or restriction. Make sure the impeller is not frozen or blocked.

Check the diverter valve for the same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from. Make sure the diverter valve is in the drain position while the drain pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if deemed necessary.

The inlet valve has failed & needs to be replaced unless you don't use hot water then you could just swap the hoses over.

Wel first you have to know if power is there at the outlet and if there is,than there is a wire or switch problem on the machine

Hi

Error code 37 means while draining, the water level reading from the pressure transducer has not changed for over 3 minutes. Check whether the drain hose has been squashed or kinked and the pump out rate has been dramatically reduced. If the pump is clear it mean that the pump is not operating due to Motor Controller, wiring, or pump failure or thermal overload cut out. Another reason due to which this error appears is that the Motor Controller is not reading the water level correctly. This fault could also appear if Smartdrive is pumping to an unusually high head of drain hose or into an extended length of drain hose. Check for correct resistance of the pump, check Pump Harness is connected correctly to pump. Check the pressure tube is not kinked and clear of water droplets. Clear tube and reconnect when bowl is empty. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel

Fault Code 37 is "Pump Blocked Error" which means for some reason the machine did not drain properly. This can be due to a blockage in the pump such as a lint ball or wire from a bra that got down in the pump, perhaps a safety pin, etc. It also can be caused by objects that get past the pump but become caught inside the diverter valve, which is downstream from the pump. One other thing to be aware of, and this trips people up sometimes- a pump that is failing ELECTRICALLY can also cause the same error. If the pump is overheating and shutting down, the machine will not drain and the control will properly sense that there is still water in the tub. I've suggested in the past that this error be renamed "pump error" because the term "blocked" makes people look for an absolute condition.

This could be due to the upper bearing rubber seal getting too old and disintegrating. It

just unplug the unit from the wall outlet ----
now after the machine has been unplugged for awhile,, try and plug the unit back in and see if it will finish the cycle,, or just start a new cycle and see if the machine will reset.

c...

This machine has an "inherent" problem with lint and it cannot be resolved by replacing an appropriate part because in the first place it has no lint filter.The only thing you can so is check and clean both the recirculation pump and the drain pump. Drain the machine then disconnect power and remove the fill hoses. Lay the machine on its front on a cushioned surface to access the pumps at the bottom of the tub. Remove the pumps and clean them including the inlet hoses and the diverter valve where both of the pumps inlet hose connect from.

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The "control board" has gone bad in your washer. You will need to replace it with this part.

the pressure switch controls how much water is going in.i would say the pressure switch is faulty & needs to be replaced.