20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Your main control board has a fault and will need to be replaced.

On what? We are not able to see or know details without you telling us. You have to help yourself by giving as much detail as possible.

Certainly get someone to take a look - neglecting a suspected problem could mean things becoming worse, meanwhile send your daughter into the backyard with a dolly tub, scrubbing board and mangle...

It sounds like there is a build up of soap powder and it just needs a good clean.Try cleaning the agitator and bowl. Remove the fabric softener cup from the machine undo the wing nut and take the agitator out and give it a good clean underneath and also while the agitator is out give the bowl a clean down. Then once you have done that and placed the machine back together run the machine through a high water level hot wash with two cups of vinegar added (with no clothing in the machine).

Maybe you have the cold tap hose connected to the hot inlet valve. Check the hoses. Need more info on the beeping. Is it a steady beep or more of a musical rippling sound? Also, what lights are on especially along top row when it beeps but also describe any other lights that are blinking? The top row lights won't be blinking, so just count and tell what number lights are on and which are off ( count from left to right)

Could be or could be a faulty drain pump.

Check the drain pump after it has been draining for a while. Drain the water out, turn power off at wall. Tip the machine back against the wall. Look under the front right hand corner and locate the drain pump. Touch the metal part & see if it is very hot. Should be just luke warm. Very hot means it has to be replaced with a new pump now before it burns out and damages the control board.

Before hitting any buttons you need to write down the fault code. As soon as it starts beeping take note of which lights are on along the top row. There are 8 lights. Count from the right and tell us which number light is on and which are off. That will tell us the error code and what it means.

You say nothing happens when you press srart but then you say about reading the fault codes. So if there is beeping and fault codes then it must be doing something. Describe exactly what happens, step by step. What do you mean by the new board is same number but not the same? What is different? Recheck the wiring, especially the hot & cold inlet valves.

Fault code 41 if those are the correct lights. Service manual says faulty temperature thermistor & change the control module. Good luck with that as that model is nearly 20 years old and I don't think F&P supply that module any more.

Replace the inlet valve. This is a common fault easily fixed with a new valve.

Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive beeps and stops during rinse cycle. If I hit pause and wait and restart it eventually continues. It seems like it has problems detecting water level.

The F&P is easy to work on, the rubber tabs on the left and right front top. remove screws top will lift up. support it . Then reach into agitator and loosen spin nut . remove agitator. then remove inner drum. Outer drum will be exposed. Filter should be visible. Clean out and service any residue from water and soap. Check water inlet for proper inflow and leakage.

Code 37 actually means there has been no or little decrease in the pressure on the pressure sensor in the last 3 minutes. This is usually caused by a blocked pump but can also be caused by a blocked or kinked pressure tube or by a faulty pressure sensor in the control board. Watch water flow at end of drain hose while pump is runnjng. Strong flow = No blockage. Poor flow = remove pump & hose & check for blockage. If flow is ok then check pressure tube and if all is ok then it will have to be a control board fault.

From left to right, which number lights are on. 1 on 2 off 3 off 4 on etc.... There should be 8 lights.

Check your drain hose to make sure you have not sealed the top of the standpipe (drain line), or shoved your drain hose too far down in the pipe. If you do not allow for an air gap, your washer will fill and begin to siphon through the drain line. It is common for folks to seal the standpipe or shove the drain hose down in the line too far in the belief that it will prevent overflows, or get rid of that nasty drain smell. This can be bad because it does not allow for the proper air gap to keep the water from being siphoned right out of the machine. You may have a tight fitting that doesn't siphon every time which may explain why the problem doesn't occur all the time. Double check to make sure. Hope this helps.