Top 20 Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Kitchen Laundry Appliances Fisher Paykel US Are you sure that is the part number. I went to the above link and could find nothing with a part number of E224B. Please look on your unit and verify there is no other numbers. If you find additional information please post it and we can attempt to help. Semper Fi, Z

Yes there should be a pan right next to compressor so heat from motor would cause it to evaporate.
You can just put a pan next to motor and strap it up

will need someone with the correct diagnostic equipment to tell you whats wrong

Check fans in freezer and near compressor. Is compressor running continuously or clicking on and off? If fans are running and compressor is running continuously, your problem is most likely within sealed system. That would require a technician and may not be cost effective to repair.

if not humming at all then i would say a new thermostat should fix the problem

Have they cleaned the drain tube that runs down the back of the fridge? If not and the tube is clogged water will back up and give you the problem that you are having. The only other thing that I can think of, is that the defrost cycle may not be set to a minimum amount of time to where this can be increased to allow the freezer not to let the ice build up.

the pump has either something jammed in it so remove it and check,if good check the pump copper windings for any uneven coloring if darker in one area replace pump

perhaps the reed switch (the magnetic switch to tell the PCB the door is open/closed). With F&P fridges, the amount of beeps will indicate the error code which relates to which component is faulty.

Faulty freezer temperature sensor - this would be for an older model fridge

draining tube plugged which normally would drain defrost water to a evaporating pan under fridge

could be PCB, relay or compressor. Make sure the power cable is not damaged, and seek assistance from a qualified technician.

there may be a blockage in the evaporator tube in the fridge sections and the only way to establish what the fault is will be to have fridge technician run test on it

Keep the refrigerator temperature at or below 40° F (4° C). The freezer temperature should be 0° F (-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

All cold air in fridge comes from the freezer behind the back wall. I'd first check to see if the fan is running and trying to circulate air to the fridge side. If it isn't then you'll need to replace evaporate fan. Fan is located in freezer behind back wall. Note: If you have a bunch of snowy frosty ice buildup on the back wall in the freezer then you have a defrost issue and you should hire a professional. Thanks and gl. Appliance Parts

Use a hair dryer to defrost the mechanism. Usually the feeding tubes or entry ports freeze inadvertently. Turn off andnwarm up the unit. Plug in again and it should operate smoothly.

Your fridge is telling you there is a fault, i'd say one of the 2 fans are not working. If everything is freezing in the bottom of the food compartment then the upper fan is faulty. You have to remove the shelves & remove the rear panel, the fan is in the shute at the bottom, remove, repair the broken wire or replace. Make sure unit is unpluged.

Sometimes this can happen with fridges that have two evaporator circuits. One circuit controls the freezer and the other controls the chillier part. I can't be sure how your fridge has been configured but the first thing to do is defrost it. Has the fridge been moved recently or tipped on its side? The compressor has a small amount of oil in it to help it run smoothly and prolong its life. If any of this oil finds its way into the gas circuit it can restrict the calibrated evaporator jet. Defrost the fridge and let it stand for 12 hrs. before restarting it. This problem can also point to an old and worn out fridge or a fridge that requires re-gassing. Either way its best to buy a new fridge in this case, you can generally tell as the fridge motor will run almost continually and get very, very hot indeed and can become a fire risk. Lastly, some people put fridges out in a cold garage or store. This can also prevent some fridges from working properly when the garage temperature drops below the temperature that the fridge operates at, it this case the freezer part might also stop working if the temperature of the garage dropped below freezing. So, Defrost your fridge and let it stand for a while at normal room temperature. Restart the fridge and it should work normally. make sure the temperature dial is set to a reasonable setting, it should work, if not it might be time for a new one.

Hi Thomas, there is a discrepancy here, you have an oven or a refrigerator? I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/roger_e8672cfe67bf61a1

Defrost thermostat is bad. Defrost element is staying on for too long raising up temperature causing ice to melt.

The condensation in a fridge is generally routed to a small drain hole at the bottom at the back. The water drained off here normally drips onto the compressor unit (the big black ball thing at the back) where it gets evaporated off, due to the heat the compressor generates. Before taking steps to unblock the drain, you might consider defrosting the fridge first. When unblocking the drain, do not use wire, unless the fridge is switched off and unplugged, you never know where that wire will end up (electrocution risk!). There are two good ideas for clearing the blockage. The best way off clearing the tube is with compressed air, often difficult to get in your kitchen, but don't despair, there could be two solutions in your garden shed. If you have a Weed-killer Spray that uses a pump to pressurise the spray pot, you could use that to clear the blockage (with a bit of ingenuity). Clean the spray thoroughly first, you don't want to poison anything in the fridge, and use the spray with no liquid in it. You can take off the spray nozzle and use the pipe in the hole. If you need to manually unblock the tube, you could use a hard nylon "cord" that is used in a garden strimmer. Pocking that down the hole and into the pipe should do the trick. It's flexible enough to get around the corners in the pipe and when it emerges at the other end it won't electrocute you if it touches a live connection. Lastly, having removed the blockage, put a very tiny bit of "plughole unblocker" fluid in the pipe, that will clean out all the other residue not pushed out with the cord. Good Luck!