20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Page 9 Questions & Answers

apply some heat with a blow dryer to the rubber around the door this might settle the rubber to stick to the fridge

It sounds like if you have an air leak into the freezer compartment - are the door seals in good nick and door is closing proper?

Hope this helps

youre meant to if moved, let it sit for atleast an hour before turning on because moving it disrupts the gas inside. Did you do that?

Sometimes the gaskets are a little bigger than the orginal. what to do is use duck tape or something to keep the door closed for 24 hours and this will help put the new gasket in the right position. hope this helps. wally

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hello,
it sounds like the control board of your refrigerator is defective and needs to be replaced. The control board controls the display panel, buttons etc... You need to replace the control board to fix the problem of the buttons and display.
As for the ice-maker, investigate each of these two areas if your ice-maker is not making ice;
1. Water Inlet Valve
2. Defrost Thermostat

Water Inlet Valve: Your ice maker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer. An ice maker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.

Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.

Follow the below directions to test your water inlet valve;

Before you begin to test your ice maker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test.

1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.


2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.


3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.


4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.


5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.


6. If the test you conduct with your ice maker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.

Defrost Thermostat ;
It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. Or your ice maker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.

Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost thermostat;

Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.

1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.


2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.


3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.


4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.


5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.

Follow the above closely and I believe it should guide you in solving the problem;

I hope this helps.

Good luck.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

• Sure it can be due to lack of gas. You can't check the pressure because one has to be certified to fool with the gases. But we can narrow it down to weather or not it might be the gases or not. The refrigerant system is sealed and will never leak out if there is never a leak.It will in theory always blow cold air. When you had it gassed did they repair a leak? If not the gases could have seeped out again. Just like in a car, same set up. You had to have it gassed for a reason and if that reason was not repaired it could very well be the problem.

• Are the fans in the refrigerator running at all? In the freezer part? If the fans don't circulate then the cold air will not either. Unlikely that both will go at the same time but not impossible.

• Is your compressor running at all? On the compressor you should have a relay. If you pull it out and shake it does it rattle like it has rocks in it? This can be your problem.

• Also look around the coils around the compressor. Where the gasses travel. You will want to look for rusted or "greening" of the copper pipes. This can be a good indicator of a possible spot that is leaking. To test the actual gasses and the pressure you need gauges and the know how to use them.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Sent you a link to download a manual in pdf format.

HI,CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON THE DEFROST ELEMENT AND B-METAL IF THOSE COMPONENTS PASS THE TEST MAYBE THE TIMER OR DEFROST CONTROL COULD BE BAD IN YOUR REFRIGERATOR..GOOD LUCK..

Thanks for sharing your experience regarding your own refrigerator problem at least you fix it yourself. Be proud of it. Good luck.

Hi,

Thank you for contacting fixya.com.

Adjust the temperature settings, and verify that the drawers are correctly placed in the refrigerator compartment. Redistribute the food items and don't block the vents or the rear air grille with food. If the food in your refrigerator is freezing, raise the temperature setting. Clean the condenser coils if they are dirty, and keep food away from the air inlet, which is located in the upper-left corner. Also check for excessive ice build up on the side of the evaporator coil (which is in the back of the freezer compartment behind the rear plastic panel). You need to defrost that. If you don't have any ice buildup there then check for faulty thermostat in your refrigerator. In that case you need to call a repairman to diagnose the problem considering the factors I have suggested here. Yes, 1 is the coldest setting and so on.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

The only thing a home owner can do to fix this is to make sure ALL the coils under and behind you fridge are clean. If that dose not work I would very strongly suggest calling a repairmen before you attempt to fix.

most likely to be a buildup of ice around the fan

The condesate drain could be blocked. things like peas, corn and mould can do this.
Pour some warm soapy water doun the drain to try and clear it.
The water sould drain out the back of the fridge into an evaporativr drain tray

The top part of the fridge relies on cold air being forced up from the freezer section. The is a fan in the freezer that forces air into the "ducting" which channels the air to the fridge.
So either the fan is not working
Or the ducting is blocked
Either way you may need a technician to fix this problem

the ice is just freezing in the bottom of the bin in a solid mass

your defrost timer is stuck it is in the back of the fridge at the bottom take the cover off & to the left hand side there is a plastic timer. the coloured bit in the middle of the timer needs to be twisted clockwise with a screw driver or pair of scissors.this is manually putting it in & out of a defrost.this is a quick fix the defrost timer will get stuck again so it will need to be replaced.

Generally either the fridge of freezer internal fan motor isn't working. The beeping is telling you there is something wrong. You can check this with a strong magenet on the door switch. Leave one door closed and put the magenet on the door switch and the light will go off. Then feel the back of the internal wall and see if you can feel air movement. Then check the other compartment the same way.