Marvel (6SBARBSG) Wine Cooler - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is also a light override ON/OFF button next to the door switch to allow the light to remain on for display setups. Make sure that switch is off. If it is off, then your door switch must be shorted out and should be replaced.

Don't know, but their should be a label on or near the compressor that tells you.

www.marvelrefrigeration.com

All coolers produce water as a result of condensation which occurs when air is cooled. The water appears upon the radiator (technically called the evaporator) inside the cold area of the cooler. When the water drips off of the radiator, it is caught by a pan which may or may not be a removable piece. The pan should lean toward the rear of the cooler and the water should pour into a drain tube. The drain tube should lead down into the compressor area of the cooler and deposit the water into another pain which is outside of the cooler where it should evaporate back into the air. Sometimes "cardboard" fins are used to help the water evaporate. Sometimes a pan with a huge surface area is used to help the water evaporate. Other times the pan is literally on top of the compressor. Make sure the cooler itself is level. Make sure room air is able to move over the pan where the water is supposed to evaporate. Make sure the drain hose is not clogged. Make sure pans are not leaking.

Hello Doneegans,

I understand that you are hearing a bad noise coming from your Marvel WIne Cooler. There are only two things that can be making this noise in your unit they are the compressor and the evaporator fan. I am would think it was the fan as you are not experiencing any problems with the temperature.

If you can please post the model of your unit becasue there are so many different units I would gladly locate you the fan and explain how to change it on your unit. Please post back to this thread.

Thank you for choosing FixYa.com

Justinbur167

Hi

Please check this link to read detailed information related to wine cooler as per your query:-

http://www.winecoolerexpert.com/wine-cooler-faq.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Sounds like a leak in the refrigerant system. Need a certified technician for this repair.

as old as the unit is the compressor has most likley gone bad. For this size compressor the replacement should not cost that much. You can call an appliance repair shop and let them know you unit and that you need a new compressor installed they should be able to quote you a cost on replacement.
Good luck hope this helped
Dave

Are you looking for instructions how to replace the stat, where you can get one or who can do it for you?

With either question I would need to know the full model/serial number.

If it was made before 2001 it will have an electric-mechanical stat which to my knowledge may no-longer be available. The electronic stat used 2001 to 2007/8 is still available as well as an upgrade kit to replace the old style. You can call the factory at 800-223-3900 and ask for customer service. Ask for Tim Malloy or Ron Peterson. They will know if they still have the old style stat (easier to replace and cheaper) or if you require the SSAC control or the upgrade kit. Make sure you have the full model/serial number when you call. If you cannot locate the serial number reply back and I'll give you guidance how to determine which control you have.

The factory can also refer you to a servicer in your area. If you need to do it yourself, reply back with what control you have and what you purchased and I'll help you get it installed correctly. Good-luck, Subdriver

Dear Sir/Madaam,

The 6SBAR-BS-G does not have a digital temperature display. Could you provide your correct model number? The 6SBARE-BS-G does have a digital display and has two temperature sensors.

One is used for control and the other is used for display. The are connected to the back of the display board by small white molex connectors. The smallest is for (two pin) is for the control and the three pin (although only two of the pins are used) is for the display.

The unit does not have to be removed for it's installed location to change the thermsitor, (temperature sensor), but you will want the power off when you swap it out.

You can order a new sensor from a few sites on line but the best thing to do is call the factory direct at 800-223-3900. The part number for the display thermsitor is 42246463 (the control thermsitor is 42246462). If your unit is more than a year old you may wish to replace both sensors while you are doing the work. If you are doing the work yourself, ask the customer service technician if he/she would email you the service manual as well.

Let me know if you need any further assistance - Subdriver

I believe the 6SBAR has an evaporator fan located behind the evaporator plate ( the cooling plate) inside the unit. They had some issues with the bearings in those fans failing and will sound like a small jet engine sometimes (high pitched whine). When you hear the noise, open the door and if the noise level changes (either gets louder or goes away) then it is the evaporator fan. If your noise is coming from the compressor area and does not change when you open the door, it is most likely the condenser fan blade is loose. The evaporator fan looks like a small computer cooling fan and is located near the bottom center of the evaporator plate (out of site). The factory sells a replacement kit with a much better fan and new power supply. You can reach them at 800-223-3900. Good-luck.

You can order a replacement evaporator assembly directly from the factory at 800-223-3900. I believe (working on memory here) the part# is 42244047 (for black) and 42244046 (for white) It comes with the suction line and capillary tube already brazed to the evaporator plate and comes with a new filter drier. They can also recommend a service technician in your area if you need one, They accept all major credit cards.

Yes, you can purchase a new thermostat from the factory by calling 800-223-3900. Since your unit was built during the year they were switching from electro-mechanical to solid state you will need to know which one you have when you call. They can help you determine which one it is. The electro-mechanical will have an aluminum sensing line exiting the back of the stat (connected to the temperature control dial) and two individual wires. (may also have a green ground). The solid state consists of three parts: Control Board (located in the rear near the compressor), thermistor (located on the right side of the evaporator plate and connected to terminals 4 and 5 of the control board) and potentiometer (attached to the control knob and has wires connected to terminals 6 and 7 of the control board). You most likely have the solid state control.

I hope this helps.

Either the thermostat itself is bad, or the relay is sticking. If you break the connection between the T-stat and the relay, and it keeps runnning, the problem is the relay.

If the compressor stops running when you break the connection or disconnect the T-stat, then the T-stat needs to be replaced.

I truly doubt the control is the faulty component. It has two inputs it uses to decide when to cycle the compressor.

1) the potentiometer with the control dial is connected to terminals # 6 and 7.
2) the thermsitor is connected to terminals # 4 and 5.

Most of the time it is the thermistor that has failed. Marvel Part number 42244531.

You can order it directly from the factory by calling 800-428-6644

If you just got the unit you should contact your dealer for warranty service. The only noise you should hear is a slight hum of the compressor and the soft blowing noise of the condenser fan. It sounds as if the evaporator fan on this unit is toast. That is also why is it having a hard time maintaining temperature. The temperature indicated is actual air temperature sensed so it will go up and down a couple of degrees above and below setpoint but when operating correctly the product temperature will be very stable.

If the servicer does not fully understand the new digital system, make sure he/she contacts the factory technical assistance rep. at 800-428-6644.

It sounds like the bulb is not getting power. There is a door switch that turns it off when the door closes...this may be stuck. There is usually an optional (depending on age) ON/OFF switch that overrides the light to be on full time. If the light will also not turn on with that switch then there must be a disconnected or broken wire either going to the light switches or going to the light socket from the switches. I hope this helps.

If the unit was made after 2000, there is a solid state control in the back that you can test. If it was made before then, it will have capillary tube style thermsotat that you can test.
Made after 2000:
First, pull the unit out to access the back lower area and disconnect the power. Remove the lower backing to access the mechanical area. There will be 2-inch square back box with seven terminals and 4 dip switches. Disconnect the red and black wires from terminals # 3 and 2 respectively and connect them together (this bypasses the control). Plug the unit in...if it runs you need a part of or all parts of the control.

Made before 2000. With power disconnected, remove the front grill to get access to the thermostate (usually on the right side). It will have up to three wires connected to it and a sensing line. Leave the green (ground) wire as is (if connected), disconnect the other two wires and connect them together or run a jumper. Plug the unit in...if it runs then you need a new thermostat (only one part).

If the compressor does not run but the condenser fan does...something is wrong with the compressor.

You can also call the factory at 800-428-6644 and ask for technical assistance. They can assist you with further troubleshooting and/or finding a servicer near you. They should still have parts to repair that unit.

The 6SBAR-BS-G most likely has the solid state thermostat that consists of three parts: A solid state control board, a 0-100K potentiometer (connected to the control dial) and a thermistor. The thermistor is the most common part to fail. I would call the factory and ask for technical assistance to help isolate which part has failed. Most service companies do not stock their parts. The factory's number is 800-428-6644 or write an email to [email protected]

The 3BAR cooler has a 10-inch light bar that has multiple indicasent elements and is plugged in to the ceiling receptacle via a three pin plug. If you have a resistance/continuity tester you can unplug the light and check it for continuity across the two outer pins. (the center is ground). You can can also loosen the two screws that it the assemlby to the ceiling, remove the assembly and carefully test it with power. Most likely, it has burnt out. If the light checks good, then power must not be reaching the recepticle. Power is routed to the recepticle directly from the power cord via the door switch (when open) or from the ON/OFF rocker switch in the toe-kick. I hope this helps.