20 Most Recent Hoover HCA331FFK Questions & Answers

2 comments from a 2016 FIXYA post: 2 more comments

Neil Capel Jun 02, 2016 Did you ever find one of the Led boards?
• matt Jun 04, 2016 NO,I GOT 6 CAPACITORS IN THE END,REPLACED THEM THAT CURED MY PROBLEM...

I would recommend a GOOGLE SEARCH for: "hca331ffk" troubleshooting (be SURE to use the QUOTES just as shown!) You will see about 360 hits... and I offer this because you appear to have multiple problems that may require multiple answers. Anthony

It is very important to clean condenser coils on forced-air refrigerators such as side-by-side and built-in models at least twice a year (if you have a refrigerator with the black coils mounted on the back, these coils don't require semi-annual cleaning). Here's how to do it: 1) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and unplug it or, if it's a built-in model, turn off its circuit breaker. 2) Remove the cover panel to reveal the coils. On most models, the kick plate or top trim plate simply lifts off. You may have to remove a few screws to remove a back cover. 3) With a long, narrow nozzle on your vacuum, clean out all of the dust and debris (at an appliance parts store, you can also buy a special, long-handled brush that looks somewhat like a bottle brush for this job). 4) Replace the cover, and then plug the electrical cord back in or turn the circuit back on.

There is a switch, almost like a button, most likely it is out when you close the door as designed, but then you open it, switch is sticking closed. Try messing with it or moving it some. If not might have to just replace the switch. Should be a cheap repair.

I had same problem. Needed a new thermostat. Lasted about 18 months, then needed to replace fridge. Ice build up is between the inside and outside layers of the fridge as well. May just be more economical to replace. Cheers

check the switch for light maybe the contact was stuck

Verify the compressor is running first and the fan close to it. Check for dust dirt in the condenser coils underneath. Clean as necessary. Feel of the compressor CAREFUL if its HOT to the touch and hasn't been cooling listen to it for the 10 to 20 minutes your talking about. If its precisely 15 minutes on then off and the fan motor under by the compressor starts and stops at the same time your controller (thermostat or sensor/board assy.) is not sending power on to the compressor - replace as necessary. If your fans keeps running under neath the compressor is not working correctly. here is what to do to check it.

The fan staying on underneath is the tattle tell. If its not running something else is turning off and on the compressor (they run together normally) and fan motor look to the controller.
If the fan stays on it means (usually) the compressor should be running also. So the controllers are at least telling it to run. If the fan isn't up to speed or the coil is blocked with dust and lint/dirt this can cause (in some setups) both fan and compressor to overload from heat.

Assuming you have voltage to the compressor and the coils are clean and the fan motor under is working up to par, The compressor or its start components are at fault. Here is what to look for:

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
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A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

If your refrigerator freezes its contents, even when the cold control is set to its lowest setting, its cold control is probably defective. Call an appliance repairperson. As a rule, refrigerators are designed to maintain 37 to 40 degrees F in the refrigerator box and 0 to 5 degrees F in the freezer box. Setting either compartment to lower temperatures generally costs you extra in energy dollars. If the icemaker keeps making ice, even when full: 1) Lift the bail wire to shut it off. 2) Empty the bin, remove the icemaker, clean it, and reinstall it. 3) If the problem persists, consider having an appliance repairperson remove and replace the entire icemaker and valve, a relatively affordable repair. With this type of problem, it's often better to replace the unit rather than to pay for

If the refrigerator's light works and you can hear it running but it cools poorly or runs without stopping, any of several problems may be at fault. First, make sure nothing is blocking the passageway between the freezer and refrigerator compartments--if airflow is restricted by, for example, a loaf of bread situated in front of the passageway, the refrigerator won't get cold. Be aware that a refrigerator will tend to run longer when it's full of food, the door is opened frequently, and the room temperature is hot. If your refrigerator runs without stopping (unless you turn it off), it may be low on refrigerant. Without a full charge, it cannot reach the low temperature that the cold control dial summons. More likely, it is a defrost problem in which a component in the automatic defrosting system is faulty. This could be a defrost heater, a defrost timer, or a defrost terminator. Before you call a repairperson, do the following: 1) Determine whether the refrigerator section is being cooled. If you see frost at the top of a "frost free" refrigerator even when the cold control is set low, it means the refrigerator probably has a full charge of refrigerant. If this is the case, the thermostat may be faulty or out of calibration. 2) Try turning the cold control both up and down. If the compressor doesn't shut off, the cold control may be broken. Call a repair person. During the repair, it is a good idea to have the defrost timer and heaters checked to ensure that they are working correctly. 3) Look at the condenser coils, located at the bottom of the refrigerator (behind the kick plate) or, in some cases, at the back. These coils disperse heat from inside the refrigerator out into the room with the aid of a fan. If the coils are dirty, the refrigerator won't operate efficiently, so clean them. 4) Make sure that the drain line under the evaporator coils, which goes to a pan underneath, is not plugged (water should drip into the pan when the refrigerator is defrosting). 5) To put off having the refrigerator repaired for a few days, you may be able to defrost it manually with a hair dryer-if you can access the cooling coils in the freezer section. Excessive moisture in the coils can turn into a frozen mass, reducing efficiency. Be very careful when using the hair dryer; do not stand in a puddle of water--there is a serious danger of electrical shock! Also be careful not to melt the plastic parts.

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Check to be sure you can get a replacement fan first, they last about 4 - 5 years. Available from a parts supplier or electric motor company.
Unplug fridge. Located usually in top of freezer behind a vented cover plate. Remove cover, remove screws holding fan in, may have to cut wires. Replace with new motor, make sure the fan spins the same direction (CW OR CCW) as your old one, if you don't know which way it should spin then be sure it pushes air into the freezer area and doesn't spin backward drawing air from the freezer area..

This is very simple , is compressor running?if no call the technician who can fix , if yes do the following:
Is light on when you open? Then , good news for you , your frreze is in good condition , what you have to do is to unplug it, clean the back , move it 1 foot from the wall and let it stay there . After fifteen mins , plug again. It will waork very good and don't forget to vote for me if this solution apply.

Sounds as though it is iced up inside rear freezer panel try to unplug over night to manual defrost then plug it back in around noon if works then you made need a defrost timer hope this helped:)

Condenser fan motor may be running a little slower therefore causing a warmer compressor. Also the refrigerator must be plugged into a dedicated outlet wired 12/3 with 20 amp breaker.
With the compressor to hot the thermal overload will open therefore the compressor will not run until it cools and overload resets.

The GE GSL22JFPH refrigerator door gets lower over time. When it gets low enough the light stays on when the door closes. There is a vertical bolt along the hinge line. Push down the hinged plastic "hinge cover" under the door right on the hinge line and you can get a wrench on the bolt to raise the door. I have to do this every 6 months/

Three things likely to cause this problem. 1. Defrost problem: will see frost build up on back panel in freezer. 2. Bad evaporator fan. Listen for fan noise in freezer (may have to hold door switch closed depending on the model). 3. Bad damper motor (vent to fridge) if fan is running check for air flow out of that vent. These are the most common. See what you can find and let me know. Then we can take further steps.

To operate, a refrigerator needs electricity. If the refrigerator's light doesn't work and it's motor doesn't run: 1) Check the power. Make sure that the receptacle works (plug in a working lamp or a circuit tester). If the receptacle doesn?t work, check for a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. 2) Be sure the cold control is turned on. 3) If you discover that the refrigerator is plugged into a working outlet and the cold control is on, but the device shows no signs of life, leave the door closed to retain the cold air and call an appliance repairperson.

Most spares are to be found here; https://www.espares.co.uk/browse/at1084ma107/fridges-and-freezers/hoover

Goodness, that is tiny even for a UK fridge! https://www.rjelectrics.net/product/hoover-hfle54xk-freestanding-under-counter-larder-fridge-silver/ The problems are two-fold

• Your fridge is basic and has no circulation fan.
• The air in your home is too humid.

Try something like this from Screwfix UK to soak up and condense the moisture. Best advice though is get a new one and sell that one on Marketplace or Kijiji. https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/moisture-absorbers/cat14640001 ..