20 Most Recent Hotpoint 24 in. HDA3400G Built-in Dishwasher - Page 4 Questions & Answers

that is a good guess, but you should also check the overflow float inside the machine. if it is stuck down, then it may be overfilling. the gasket is supposed to stop splashing water. it is not an under water seal. if the float moves freely, its gotta be the gasket. good luck

midea dishwasher instructions:-------
E1 :---Cause:---- Water supply switched off.
---- Remedy: Switch off appliance. Turn on water supply. Reset the cycle.------
E2 :--- Cause: Problem with electronic temperature control.----
Remedy: Replace the control board and heating element.----
E3:---- Cause: The water heater element does not work properly or the filter mesh is blocked.---
Remedy: Clean the filter mesh and if the problem continues Replace the water heater element.
thanks.keep updated.please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.

The drain motor might be worn so it still pumps out fairly well but will let wtare back in once it stops pumping. It may also have something stuck in it so it ot is worth removing and cleaning through with a good degreasing cleaner.

hello. i can help you. remove the lower panel and in there you will see the drain hose going from a little pump near the floor upwards and ultimately connected to your plumbing under the sink. Disconnect it at both ends and examine it for a blockage. Also, remove the little pump and look in it for a chunk of glass or something else that partially blocks it. finally check out the sink trap and or the garbage disposal [if u use one] still looking for a blocked pipe.

There is no filter on your dishwasher . If you are having a problem with it not draining than you will have to remove the drain line from the bottom of the pump.After doing this remove the hard line with a set of pliers. inside the hard line you find a diaphragm which is probably clogged up with rice or corn, remove debris and resemble. Before doing this try and remove most of the water by hand or a shop vac works best.

Hi, Tools you might need are, 1/4" & 5/16" nut driver/socket, phillips screw driver & pliers.
I would remove the drain hose from the sink and put the end into a bucket. Start the d/w into spin and see if water releases.
If it does, clesn out the sink port the hose connects to.
If the d/w does not drain, remove the lower front panel and locate the drain solenoid. With the d/w running, turn the timer/selector knob and see if the solenoid engages at the end of each cycle. If it does engage, the drain hose or the sump inside the d/w must be plugged.
If it does not engage, you will need to put a voltage meter in the wire connection on the solenoid and repeat the proccess with the turning the timer and see if the solenoid is getting 120V at any time.
If this is draining into a garbage disposal and you have replaces the disposal, make sure the plug inside where the drain hose hooks up has been removed. I see this quite often.

I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

There is a drain hose for your dishwasher that often gets clogged. I would try this first. Remove the drain hose and clean it out. reinstall the hose and your dishwasher will drain. The dishwasher should have a panel to remove and then comes out easily, just be careful not to pull it out too far. Go to google or youtube and type how to remove or install dishwasher hose or valve and you will find visual aids that way. Good luck

take the front cover off and have a bucket and towels ready ,, remove the hose clamp off the drain line and remove it slowly to keep up with the water that will seep out of the line after it stops draining run water theu the drain and flush the system the take the hose off and run water thru it ,, out side,, then check if it goes into an air gap clear both sides of the air gap and all hoses,, if after doing all of this and it still won't drain, you will need to change the pump

HI, usually, if the dishwasher dose not drain properly, it will be the fault of a defective or, malfunctioning pump. i will list several problem areas to check. Inspect each area properly and, replace any component that is faulty or fouled.


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

Hi Bob,

Yeah! I'm a Texan! Cool!

I'd almost bet that your dishwasher drain line is NOT clogged but simply installed incorrectly. If I'm right, some water from the sink will drain (siphon) back to your dishwasher making you believe that it's not draining properly. (BTW, I've had a thousand service calls run for just this problem, so I know of what I speak)

Look under your sink and take a gander at your dishwasher drain line... if it looks like this, it ain't right.


This allows sink/disposal water to siphon off to your DW. All you gotta do is loosen the clamp (in the pic), remove the drain line, pull as much slack as you can (without pulling to hard... like it'll break if you do that) and put a loop in it like this...


OK... after you get your loop, you'll need to tighten your hose clamp. As an extra measure of security (to keep the loop in place), secure the drain hose to your sinks water supply line.

There ya go! 15 minutes, no parts, no head-aches and you're done! Cool, huh? All you gotta do now is kick back and wait for the Cowboys pre-season! (BTW... if your drain is installed properly, write back and we'll go a little deeper into a diagnosis, OK?)

SG

Dishwasher noise is such a pain, especially in a new kitchen that you need to leave just to have a conversation.

There is nothing to be done to make the dishwasher quieter. Upgrading is the way to go. I now own the amazingly quiet LG LDF8812ST which works well for me and is EnergyStar rated. I really did not know the dishwasher was running, and visitors often comment on how quiet it is as we chat around the kitchen table.

But it takes time to get used to a water and energy conserving dishwasher. You need to make sure the arms are not blocked with each load and not use ultra-cheap detergent powder. Also, the plastic items will not dry like the older dishwasher.

Good Luck!

So, you know that the screen in the water fill hose is not blocked, right?

The next most common problem is a failed float/ float switch. When that switch fails to open/close properly, no water will enter.

Last, the solenoid valve where the water fill hose connects to the DW, could be failed.

Good Luck!

do you have a multimeter to check voltages?if so put the unit into the heat dry mode and see if you get voltage{im assuming its 110 volts}.if you have the voltage there then the heating element is bad.if theres no voltage then the timer is bad.how old is your unit?

There have been many versions of the spray tower used over the years. If you have the model HDA3400G which you posted under, you should get a part number WD22X10008 which is the lower spray arm and tower assembly. By looking at the new part, you will see how a couple tabs hold the part on, and can figure out how to remove the old one with a flat blade screwdriver (or two). If you have a different model, please post the exact model number. The model number sticker is generally located on the left side wall of the tub, right by the front.

It sounds like the pump motor has failed but the timer is working to turn on the heating element.
Recommend you replace the motor.

A noise could be created by something getting down into the motor-pump assembly piece of glass, piece of bone, wire tie anything really. If this is the case and you can remove it before it causes further damage problem solved. At ten years old the problem may be the motor and or pump one thing to consider before putting money into it is disheashers average 7-10 years these days. Good Luck.

hello my name is gilles the problem you have their is something stuck in your drain valve causing the valve to stay open remove the valve clean out reintall every thing should be fine thanks

dear sir the problem you have sounds like the solenoid that opens the drain actuater can be worn out open the bottom panel run tru a cycle observe when the solenoid open it may be that there is something causing the solenoid to buzz either worn out or a wire or something in the way causing not to close proprly thanks from gilles