Top 20 Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable Questions & Answers

Absolutely K1 or diesel can get old in a hurry, the ultra-low Sulphur diesel has been tinkered with so much that it turns to book varnish much faster than before 2010. Most of those heaters spray fuel past the igniters using a siphon much like a spray paint gun, the suction tube may have dry rot or a small air leak and it it takes but a tiny air leak to kill the siphon effect. Check the tube from the nozzle all the way down to the fuel tank or replace it if you're not certain it is not compromised or dry rotted.

There is an igniter module and then the igniter electrodes (check the air gap) that produces the spark to start the fuel burning, both could be defective.

With any unvented gas heater, you still need fresh air coming in to breath. Long exposure in a closed room with these type heaters will cause headaches, nausea, light headedness, etc. If you think something may be wrong with the heater, check the inside of the heater where the flames are. Is it sooted? If it is, it is not burning correctly and may need the pressure adjusted or cleaned. Is the cylinder you are using freezing up on the outside of the bottle? You may just need to switch to a full cylinder. Hope this helps.

What size tank? when it's really cold a small tank will not produce enough vapor fast enough. It could be a weak valve in the tank snap'n shut If the fuel comes out to fast. Could also be high temp switch on back of burner going bad. That happens alot.

Either the fan blade is loose or the mount is loose, or the outside of the heater has been damaged/dented and hitting the blade.

Either the fan blade is loose or the mount is loose, or the outside of the heater has been damaged/dented and hitting the blade. Leaving the top piece off is only an option if there are no pets or children around.

You can download the manual from here: http://www.desatech.com/manuals/Construction%20Heaters/113893-01.pdf

Probably has an oxygen sensor so you don't run out of air. Probably not something i would bypass in a house.

You can find the item at www.desa-parts.com for your R55CT or B55CT Reddy Heater. Here is a link to that item. https://www.desa-parts.com/product/PHOTOCELL-AND-BUSHING-FITS-DESA--MASTER-/PP236

Technology has come a long way. but these heaters don't connect to wi-fi

Check the gas cut out sensor is not faulty.. and there is enough pressure in your gas bottle to operate it..

Your talking about 1/8 cup of gas, per gallon of diesel. I think it should be fine but it will run hotter than usual. You will need to keep an eye on the flame and after it warms up. If the flame continues to pass by the cone then you will need to drain between 1 to 2 gallons out and store it (You will need to use your best judgement). Fill the heater back up with new diesel and use. when you run out, add 1 gallon of the tainted diesel to 2 gallons of new diesel and repeat. You will need to pay attention to the performance and make your own determination. Please remember that these units are to be used in well ventilated areas. They produce a lot of carbon monoxide. Good luck., .

On the back of the unit you will find a small pipe plug with a slot a screw driver turning the plug clockwise increases the pressure and clock wise decreases, you need the gauge to adjust to the correct pressure, and screwdriver needs to be away from slot for correct reading.

your pic is a propane heater but model # a kero heater any way check lines to the air and fuel for cracking filters have to be clean in the heater and foam on the out not sure what the pressure is for that model but findable table on the ready heater look up get the old fuel out and new in good luck ready was the best

Replace the regulator

check the supply connection for leaks, I've had this problem in the past.

The above fix is NOT for a Life Smart LC-500-1PC.. this is Life Smart LC-500-1PC. http://lifesmartproducts.com/current-products/infrared-heaters/52-2011-products/332-ls-500-1pc.htmlSounds like the thermostat is out. Order one, and hope it comes with a repair manual!

1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......

M29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water. or If your plastic end cover looks like this...... M16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water. 4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle. 5. Replace plug. Test for leak. 6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed. 7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

When you light your gas heater, get it lit, hold the button for the required time, let go of the button and it goes out, you will either need to replace the gas hold on valve or the thermocouple. I am assuming that a known good source of gas is hooked to the unit and the igniter is sparking when depressed. In addition to the igniter sparking, it also needs to be in the correct location. It should be located just behind the end of the gas burner about 3/8 ths of an inch and approximately 1/4 to 5/16 ths of an inch from the burner. If the igniter is too far forward or backward from where the gas exits the burner the heater will be hard, if not impossible to light. Adjust the position, carefully so that you do not break the igniter, with a pair of needle nose pliers. When properly located you should get a nice big spark with a bluish tint in the vacinity of the holes where the gas exits the burner. Make any adjustments with the unit unplugged and the gas turned off.When you light the heater you need the gas to be turned on, but if it would lose its flame it needs to shut off automatically. This is a safety feature to assure that the unit will turn off when any problems are encountered. The way that the shutoff is accomplished by Reddy Heat is to use a hold on thermocouple. The heat from the flame makes the thermocouple output between 18 and 28 millivolts which keeps the gas on. This can be checked with a DMM (digital voltmeter). Turn off the gas supply. Remove the thermocouple from the gas valve. With the DMM set to the lowest millivolt setting place the black lead to the tip of the thermocouple and the red lead to the outer casing or ground. Relight the heater and if the thermocouple is good you should read between 18 and 28 millivolts.In addition some units use a relay in conjunction with the thermocouple. You will have to determine if yours does. Remove the bottom base, if there is one, otherwise locate the relay. With the DMM set to ohms, measure the resistance of the relay between terminals 4 and 6. With no power you should read infinite, (open), and with power you should read less than 100 milliohms or a short. If the unit reads bad, open both ways, replace it.With the gas valve being held open by the flame the heater will run until the gas runs out or it is shut off. If the flame goes out the thermocouple quits outputting power and the relay opens, shutting the unit down. Repair parts can be purchased at www.reddyparts.com .

there is a cad cell that see's a flame or operates the shut down circuit. Try cleaning the cad cell.Dennis