thermister blown or thermal fuse which is a black plug in the top of the dryer box or yellow sleeved wire, if it was noisy maybe the fan has come loose from it's motor. you will need to remove the dryer box on top of the drum to see if the fan is binding. you can push it back to where its not binding and tighten the nut-ANTICLOCKWISE, LEFT HAND THREAD.
usually the machine runs through a check before starting a cycle and will see an f13 and not start even a wash., so you will need to replace the blown parts.
Error code F01 indicates a short circuit motor triac, this is part of the electronics that control the motor.
What you need to check first of all is the motor.
Remove back panel, undo 2 screws that secure motor, unplug motor lead, and lever motor backwards out of the brackets, don't let go of motor.
Check to see if motor has brushes fitted, if it has , check for shorted brushes and wear,if less than 2-3 mm, then replace.
If after replacing brushes and it still shows F01, then chances are it has blown the pcb, could be expensive, especially if you need to replace the motor.
If no brushes, then pcb is probably faulty.
Plz rate my solution
Thanks.
run a load with no clothes, hot water and a gallon or two of bleach and less then 1 drop, very small amount of dish detergent. the dish detergent is used as surfactant (makes the bleach stick to the interior walls)
run an extra rinse cycle to make sure you get all the bleach out before putting clothes in.
I always start at the plug to make sure it has 220, a dryer will run but no heat with 110. This was a common problem when everyone used fuses instead of breakers, just an old habit.
Then I check the heating element and thermostats, this must be done with an OHM meter. More than likely it will one of these.
Washers have to be balanced. Some have balance adjusters either inside the dryer as explianed above or on the bottom to level the washer. try to balance it by turning the bolts slightly or the bottom portion of the washer to level it. Or else they want to shake apart. Also by distributing the clothes evenly so it won';t be all to one side can help. do not tighten the screws all the way. Just tighten them to the point of getting the right balance.
I would reccommend a Bosch product.
Their build quality just seems better. Most of the parts are well thought-out, and not over-designed to be the thinnest and cheapest like other brands.
I would steer clear of "own brands" as these may be cheaper, but often lack durability.
I have had several Bosch appliances over the years. They are solid, dependable, and if spares are needed, they are always stocked. Not that I've actually needed any!
In in doubt - buy the simplest machine to do the job. You don't need 1001 sensors to tell you that you've put shirts in with towels. Just stick to a knob controller , or push button for temperature selection and there is less to go wrong.
Keep it simple.
Hope this helps. If it does, Please rate as Fixya!
I presume you mean the inner drum, this is major strip down, remove the top, remove the front panel and the control panel, remove and split the out drum in half, remove the drum pully, refit the nut and hit the spindle with a hammer using the nut to protect the thread, this will force the drum spider out of the bearings, reverse the process to reassemble.
Regards and good luck
Advisor
You can ususally take your Hotpoint washing machine out of DEMO MODE by holding down both the ON/OFF button and the START/RESET button at the same time for about 3 seconds.The display should then indicate D OFF.If this procedure does not work for your particular machine, then please just comment back and be sure to include the exact model number of your washer next time so we can provide the appropriate procedure for your appliance. Good luck.
The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard.
Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine.
No model details given but there is help in the link.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etcBeware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
