20 Most Recent Hotpoint WF430 Front Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

either the pump is leaking or front door seal or tub is leaking. The hoses internal and external connections can leak as well.

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It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Sound like drum bearings ..However try checking concrete Weights top and bottom .. they may be loose

diconnect from mains ... remove back porthole panel ... look in you will see a black sump hose connected to bottom of drum by a band release the band and you will see the filter most likely with a sock in place blocking the whole sump

This could be a partially or completely seized/failed pump.
Before a machine goes in to a spin cycle, it runs the pump to empty all the water out. It used to be quite common that the machine does not check all the water has gone before spinning, it just runs the pump for a set time which if the pump is okay, is long enough to empty it.
If a spin is then started with quite a lot of water left in the drum, it gets thrown everywhere including back out of the powder/conditioner draw. Also the sheer strain of spinning a large amount of water can force water through an otherwise okay door seal.
Unless you are comfortable working on the machine yourself, call an engineer.

Hi, the problem is the pump is blocked. What you have to do if your a bit handy is to turn off the power from the plug socket, pull out the machine and take off the back panel, then when you look iside you will see a big black rubber fitting at the base of the mashine attached to a white plastic pump and inturn to your outlet pipe. you have to disconnect the big black one from the top, there is a metal clip which you have to unscrew and it will fall down. inside this is a plastic ball and something which looks like a shuttle ****, take this out and clean everything, you will be suprised what is in there (especially if you have kids) lastly put everything back together and put on a quick rinse cycle. all is fixed! OR Call an repair man, who may try to con you into new parts when they are not neccesary.

the belt has to be tight so that the machine an work you have to get it over the pulley and it will work use a screw driver if you need to as a kind of prybar for it

Remove power first! The pump is very easy to remove, ( unlocks from the base ) take the pump apart and check for foreign objects inside the pump assy. The power wires pull off and matters not which way they go back on. Also check the hoses to and from the drain pump for any  foreign objects. The pump is usually at the back right side ( looking at the washer from the front ).
 

The Inside Handle was Broken (from Iside) ! I had to remove the cover and replace the broken handle !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Does your washer smell? Is your rubber door seal gungy too?

If so then use 1/2 cup of Washing Soda Crystals (50p for a 1kg bag from most supermarkets)
set washer to 60 degree wash and run machine for full hot cycle with no clothes in it... just the Washing Soda.
I did this with my washer which literally reeked, and my friends have since done theirs and the results are amazing...
Go and check your drain when you finish too... mine sparkles now and it was gunged up before.. I now add a desertspoon of Washing Soda to every wash.... I place it in the crease of the door seal and little by little all the mould is disappearing, even though the hot wash cleaned the gunge the black spots remained. My washer smells so clean now and no more black flecks on the clothes either... (these are loose gunge from the outer drum, right inside the works of your machine...)

All the best
Sue

hi there sounds like you may have a faulty pressure switch, this is located at the rear of the soap dispeser box under the lid.

could be a heating element fault?  normally when washers tumble forever they are waiting to warm up?

check for open circuit electrically, normally a fairly low cost repair

you can find out on the manual you can get it here


http://www.hotpointservice.co.uk/hs/pages/manual/manualSearch.do

select a hot wash of some kind and check if the water heats. if not, problem could be heater or associated stat

Plug off the wall first. Take the pipe from the wall socket and lay it on the floor for the water to spill out. The spin normally does not work when the outlet filter is clogged; if the filter is clean you should then check your pipe coming out from under the tub. Last check your outlet pump, could be blocked with something. Refit carefully, you might need a nice pair of pliers to get the grip clip on and off the pipes.
The outlet pipe into the wall stands at a particular height, refit exactly to this height, about 3 feet from ground. Do not push the pipe too much down the stand pipe.

take your lid off were the motor is at the top there should be a cradle with a wire pointing through it there will be a small black clip which stops u from changing the setting it on the underneath of this cradle once you have that out you can push this clip down 1 click at a time each time checking the door to see if it is going to open

You said you took off the hose from the back, okay this hose was clamped somewhere below - this is where the block is. Your outlet filter. It requires periodic cleaning - is a place where you can remove (see manual 'cleaning filter')to clear out whatever. For many front loading machines the place to open is at the front panel, right or left bottom, a 4.5 by 4.5 door. Clean out, refit.

You can ususally take your Hotpoint washing machine out of DEMO MODE by holding down both the ON/OFF button and the START/RESET button at the same time for about 3 seconds.The display should then indicate D OFF.If this procedure does not work for your particular machine, then please just comment back and be sure to include the exact model number of your washer next time so we can provide the appropriate procedure for your appliance. Good luck.

Certainly! Here's a concise response for the forum discussion: To clear the Hotpoint dishwasher FDYF 11011p Fault F01, you can follow these steps:

1. Power Reset:
   • Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it.
   • Wait for about 10 minutes.
   • Plug it back in and restart.
2. Check Door Lock:
   • Ensure the door is securely closed.
   • Check for any obstructions in the door lock mechanism.
3. Inspect Wiring:
   • Examine the wiring for any visible damage.
   • If you're comfortable, check the connections and reseat them securely.
4. Temperature Sensor:
   • Fault F01 may be related to the temperature sensor. Verify its condition and connections.

If the issue persists, it's advisable to consult the Hotpoint dishwasher manual or contact customer support for further assistance. Hope this helps!