Hotpoint WMTL79 Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

blow through your outlet pipe and see if its blocked. and clear your water trap if it has 1

is it spinning at all? if so then check ur pump for obstruction or bad propeller, if not check door switch, clutch, motor coupler, belt etc

Check where the hose connects to the washer sometimes their is a screen filter in their. If not the valve that controls the water input could be bad. Most of those valves are where the hoses hook to the washer.

http://imagebank.indesitcompany.co.uk/brochures_online/pdf/Hotpoint/Laundry/HBWMTL79.pdf

Probably caused by a bad connection, or loose wire, nothing more serious than that .

belt snapped or requires adjusting

Remove the front panel and open the control panel.
Remove the platic hose from the water level switch and the air dome on the side of the tub.
Clean the soap out of the air dome hole witha toothpick Blow through the plastic hose. Re-connect everything. Set the washer to spin and turn it on for 1 minute.
Then run a regualar wash cycle.

Certainly! Here's a concise response for the forum discussion: To clear the Hotpoint dishwasher FDYF 11011p Fault F01, you can follow these steps:

1. Power Reset:
   • Turn off the dishwasher and unplug it.
   • Wait for about 10 minutes.
   • Plug it back in and restart.
2. Check Door Lock:
   • Ensure the door is securely closed.
   • Check for any obstructions in the door lock mechanism.
3. Inspect Wiring:
   • Examine the wiring for any visible damage.
   • If you're comfortable, check the connections and reseat them securely.
4. Temperature Sensor:
   • Fault F01 may be related to the temperature sensor. Verify its condition and connections.

If the issue persists, it's advisable to consult the Hotpoint dishwasher manual or contact customer support for further assistance. Hope this helps!

The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard. Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine. No model details given but there is help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode

Visit page no 6 of user manual Instruction manual for Hotpoint WMTF 722 H Top Loading Washing Machine - White (Argos Product 380/7365) (argos-support.co.uk) It may help you.

Doing things like that seldom works, but if is is cheap, try it. Your motor is here including new from Whirlpool. Welling electronic control motor HXGM1L.52 https://www.google.com/search?q=Welling+electronic+control+motor+HXGM1L.52 ..

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again. Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks. If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker. The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips. To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty. If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet. If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets. Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

They melt due to high resistance across the solenoid and contacts. My only thought it that they were not genuine OEM replacements and were copies on eBay or Amazon and sourced in China. also follow the wires back to the control board and clean the contacts there. https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+wml520+door+switch I can only find one other incidence of a door lock melting and it is here on Fixya. https://www.fixya.com/support/t29905283-ve_got_hotpoint_washing_machine_model https://www.google.com/search?q=hotpoint+wml520+door+switch+melting+problem ....

Cogs possibly bad.. Check this article..... https://www.fuseami.com/how-to-fix-hotpoint-washer-that-wont-agitate/ Parts link and 877 Tech help #. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=htw240ask5ws&page=3 Another Parts house and 800# Tech Help. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/47-95-2297136-/New/Hotpoint-Washer-Won-T-Spin-Or-Agitate-HTW240ASK5WS I would give the above guys @ repairclinic call before throwing parts at it. Their very helpful..either one of them. . Repair clinic or appliancepartspro. I'm not accociated with either of them. I've just used them for repairing appliances in some rental units and my house and they've always been helpful. Best to you

Typical Landlord comment. It is a totally electronic machine. They a power reset. Pull the mains plug when you go to bed, press and hold the power button as you plug it back it back in. Here is the manual if you need it. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/71052/Hotpoint-Wmf740-G-A-K.html ..

in front of door

I have a wdal8640, after a while the condenser pipe gets all fluffed up. Remove the lid, the cross bar and unscrew the metal heating unit. You're looking for the plastic tube that bends down the back of the machine. There's a ring holding it on at the bottom, once you've undone that and worked it over the prongs on the filter it should lift straight out. Give it a good rinse and remove any stuck lint (mine was a solid block that I had to break up before I could get it out), clear the filter whilst your in there and stick it all back together. Don't forget to reattach the water pipe to the top corner!!!

That sounds like you are on Pause or Delayed Start. Try Pressing and holding the button. You can also try disconnecting from the mains for 5 minutes. When in doubt, read the manual :>D START/PAUSE button with indicator light: starts or temporarily interrupts the wash cycles. N.B. To pause the wash cycle in progress, press this button; the corresponding indicator light will flash orange, while the indicator light for the current wash cycle phase will remain lit in a fixed manner. If the DOOR LOCKED indicator light is switched off, the door may be opened. To start the wash cycle from the point at which it was interrupted, press this button again. and also ! If the START/PAUSE indicator light (orange) flashes rapidly at the same time as the function indicator light, this indicates a problem has occurred (see "Troubleshooting"). https://manualzz.com/doc/50330217/hotpoint-fdl-9640p-uk-instruction-for-use ..

Yes it is a door lock issue. Check all the connections again and follow the wire back to the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=fault+code+F6+on+a+Hotpoint+NSWM943CWUKN What does F6 mean on Hotpoint washing machine? F06 - Door lock fault. Issue: Washing Machines door cannot be opened or closed / when the door is closed the machine the programme will not start. Advice: If your washing machines door will not close, please check for any obstructions in the door lock.

Washing Machine Error Codes - Hotpoint Service

..

Based on the description, it seems that the control PCB module is a possible cause of the issue with your washing machine. Checking for any signs of burnout on the PCB would be a good next step. However, keep in mind that handling electronics can be dangerous and if you're not comfortable or familiar with the process, it's better to seek the help of a professional.