Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Try this!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Could possibly be a little knick in the door seal or from the corner of the dispenser (the drawer in known to leak and the best remedy is to adjust the front feet so the unit is tipping back slightly, this allows gravity to help the flow of water in the drawer ). The valves could be leaking on the inner side if the machine, Really depends on whether it is a flood type leak or just a small puddle/drip. Run the machine pulled out, whilst stood on some newspaper, this should help trace the area of origin. Keep an eye out when it drains that your plumbing isn't blocked and so the drained water comes out of the standpipe instead of flowing away. Keep me posted or repost if you need further advice. All the best.
The machine itself may be dirty and this consequently is effecting your wash result. Try running the machine on its hottest cycle empty except for a couple of tablespoons of baby bottle sterilising solution or half a cup of soda crystals, this should purge the drum and hoses. There could be a problem with the heating element, whilst its on the hot wash (after about 20mins) just touch the door glass and check it is heating. I run the maintenance wash in my machine every month and this helps performance and also stops bad smells in the washer. If you are having a specific problem with stains on white loads try good old fashion napisan, a couple of tablespoons along with your usual detergent normally works wonders.let me know if this helps
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced.If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
if its just the door catch they are around £11, if its the door opening handle they are around £12, you will not need to replace door, prob just one of the above. hope this helps regs eggytheman.
It is very difficult to get the outside of the drum. The revolving drum is put inside a watertight drum. This drum supported with shock absorbers, front door opening with gasket. To balance the movements heavy counter weights are attached to it. To get outside of the revolving drum, it is necessary to open the front opening, remove the gasket. Hence it is difficult. To do all this two people are necessary. The best way could be find out the one end of the wire, if you can & pull it firmly by using a nose plier.
My list of Indesit (Hotpoint, Ariston) errors does not include an 'F06'!
If you have not done so already try checking that thre is no drainage blockage/stopage.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
For most models of Indesit (Hotpoint, Ariston) 'F01' states 'motor triac short circuit- check motor and module connections'. Sorry but it looks like a service call ;-0(
If this has clarified the situation for you and/or assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
I believe your model has a pump fitted to the rear to pump the water up to a collection tank.
Next to the pump is a float valve which will turn the heater off if it senses too much water in the condensation resevoir
Common causes are allowing the condenser to get blocked, fluff then builds up restricting airflow, quite often the one shot thermostat goes, If the cause is not sorted out though it progresses water builds up in the reservoir and can not be pumped out because the pump becomes clogged (eventually failing, it sounds rough at first) the float lifts up and damp fluff settles under the float preventing it from lowering when the water level does drop
Machine usually works ok after a good clean out of pump housing and water guide ways from the condenser and the condenser should be cleaned out.
(start rant) It still amazes me that new washing machines, other than those sold in the UK, seem not to have manuals placed inside the drum/tub! I think that purchasers should demand one from the vendor and threaten to go elsewhere if it doesn't supply the goods! (end rant)
Of course the manual could have been lost!
Methinks you could do with a manual- for now and later!
Now- unfortunately FixYa cannot provide manuals direct - members of the forum are just people from all over the world, probably working from home, and not representing any particular manufacturer ;-0)
???
Manual
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.
My list for nearly all of the Indesit (Hotpoint, Ariston) washers suggests there is a fault with the motor triac, the bit that controls the motor speed, sorry ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
I have seen this before with a number of machines when they were a little overloaded. I've never been convinced that I understood why it happened, though I always suspected a motor overload of some kind causing the issue. This said. There is absolutely no reason for a machine to trip the mains unless it's faulty.
If you have a friendly neighbour who doesn't mind you killing the power in their house, you could always run an extension lead from a neighbour to your house and see if it kills their power too. But like I say, at the end of the day, if it trips the power and you have your electrics checked, then I would INSIST that you get a replacement from Hotpoint. Things that use water and electricity are not to be messed with!
Indesit (Hotpoint/Ariston) 'F05' states 'pump block'.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Sorry but one thing that it means is that you have posted to the washing machine forum rather than the fridge one ;-0(
May I gently advise re-posting? With my experience of our fridges I could guess but it would be better to have proper FixYa expert help you ;-0)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
There is probably water still left in the drum- is is a very common occurence.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
