Top 20 Hotpoint WMA58 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

unplug it for a hour plug back in see if it resets it self

hi u can put multmeter across heater you should get reading around 27on meter or close its been a while since ive done one

Remove soap dispenser and give it a good clean

Remove drawer and give clean

Possible there is no power switched from the controller unit , You need to use a meter to check the output to the motor or else the timer panel is faulty. Also If there is power and the motor does not spin then it can be fault in the motor or the capacitor or FRICTION on the drive.

just wait until summer because it's the time of the year that evaporation is faster, because of that, the water inside your washing machine will evaporate asap!

F09 means an Overflow Condition error.
This is usually attributed to a malfunctioning pressure switch, loose or broken connector between the Pressure Switch, Drain Pump and Central Control Unit (CCU), or...a drain pump or drain line that has become clogged.

I would check your drain pump filter for obstructions first. It could be that you have debris lodged in the pump causing it not to drain properly. To access the pump:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the screws under the bottom edge.
HINT: Placing a couple of blocks of wood under the front feet of the washer will make access much easier.

3. The drain pump is located under the wash tub in the center.
HINT: If you own a shop vac, remove the drain line from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum through the drain line. This will remove all residual water from the washer and make clean up later a lot less messy. Now, remove the cover on the drain pump and remove. Clean out the pump filter and check the pump impeller for obstructions.

If you do not own a shop vac, place a bunch of towels around the drain pump before you open it. There's about a gallon or so of water in the tub, drain line and pump. Try this first, and if not, you may need to check the pressure switch and wiring.

Hope this helps.

This is simply a problem with your empty pump filter being clogged. The empty cycle is timed and if it can't get all the water out in time because the filter is blocked and slowing the empty down, then it will fail safe and won't step on to the final spin cycle with excess water in the drum. Your repeat of the rinse/spin cycle is giving it extra empty time and then the spin works OK. You need to locate and clean the filter. Depending on the model (not sure which with the model you mention) there is either a round filter cap on the front of the machine at the bottom (It may be behind a small door or hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom) Many models of this design also have a small hose to the right of the filter cap that you can pull out, remove a plug from and drain off any water in the filter before you remove the filter and get your floor wet, so take a look for this before you remove the filter and get soaked.

OR You will need to access the debris trap from the back of the machine. If there is no filter at the front, pull the machine out and you will see a roughly oval panel at the bottom of the rear of the machine. Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws and unclip. Directly below the drum, you will now see a rubber "Cup" like bulge in the black pipe, with a plastic tube connected to a plastic pipe. The cup is held in place by a large jubilee clip. Unscrew the clip, pull off the rubber boot to expose the debris trap (A conical plastic cage with a ping pong ball in it) Take out the ball and the plastic trap, clean out the debris and replace the trap and the ball (Note that the cage may have a slot in it that locates in the rubber boot, make sure it lines up, or it won't reassemble correctly). Now push the boot back onto the fitting at the bottom of the drum where it came from and tighten up the jubilee clip, making sure that it is fitted correctly (it too may have a small slot out of it that fits around a protrusion on the bottom of the housing).

heres what you need http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1295/how-to-fix-a-broken-washing-machine-door-lock.html

there are some "shock absorbtion" devices inside that may be defective...you can try to remove the top lid and look down on either side of the drum...the shock absorbers look like cylinders and are mounted at the bottom of the drum..one on either side ....you should also have two springs at the top..make sure these are in place...if the shock devices are defective(usually they break at the mounting side on the floor pan of the washer) you can try getting new ones at applianceparts.com.
this website has blow up diagrams to aid in helping you get the right parts

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorry and please don't take this the wrong way but is it possible that there is still a blockage in the siphon tube of the conditioner tray part of the dispenser?

Please follow my (complete, pre-typed) guidance notes, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)

If it's not blocked it is possible that the water is not being fed into the conditioner tray. It is possible to check by opening the dispenser a little way when the machine is on (final?) rinse and you should be able to see the water entering the conditioner tray. If it isn't, it's a service call, sorry.
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Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

One of these should enable you remove it
(I am having to guess some of the following!)
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.
Good luck,
John C

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out thistip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkoutthis tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

The pressure setting on your pressure switch has went out of calibration causing the machine to overfill. If you take the lid off by removing the 2 screws at the rear and sliding it back the pressure switch is underneath on the left. Try unscrewing the larger screw in the middle anticlockwise 1 full turn i.e 360 degrees and try a wash . If it still does it the try 1 more turn. If it still happens then you will need to replace the switch. Hope this helps.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP ANY WATER BEFORE DOING ANYTHING!

Although I don't know your particular washer, the lint trap/filter is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel. This panel is probably held in by a couple of plastic screws which turn 90 degrees anticlockwise to release. The filter is normally held in by a round cover/knob which should be turned anticlockwise to release. THIS IS WHEN WATER MAY APPEAR!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.

Good luck!

John C

Sounds like the Drum Bearings are gone they are **** on Hotpoint..Could be quite expensive depending on age...3 years old you will need a half drum complete with Bearings approx cost £80 plus labour....if more than 4 yrs old then perhaps bearing kit plus 3 hrs labour....Hotpoint give a FREE 5 yrs parts warranty however CALL CHARGE....£105 approx parts are free.....You need to ecide if you should fix or just buy a new one........

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
Here are my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the filter and the motor ;-0)
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If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hi
Yes you can buy either a new door catch or the interlock switch for under £10.
Try espares or barty spares on ebay.
Be careful if the door lock light is flashing as this could be the same problem as mine having replaced both items and the pcb control panel. It might be motor brushes causing a short in the pcb board awaiting answer from expert pcb is £100 brushes £15

HB

More than likely the main drum bearings have failed.
From the front of the washer, spin the drum by hand, and if it feels rough, or is rumbling or grating, then the bearings have failed.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Check your hot water pressure you may have a bent or kinked hose or if you've had work done on your heating tank the filter in the valve may be clogged