20 Most Recent Hotpoint TDL14 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

need the whole model number to get you the wiring diagram

replace it with a slightly shorter belt..

You probable have a broken drum belt. The look like auto fan belts. They cost around $15.00 US for the part.
Also possible broken idle pulley tensioner.
Both are fairly easy jobs to replace if you are handy.
The front panel of the dryer needs to be remove to expose the dryer drum. The belt goes around the drum, the motor pulley and a tensioner pulley.
Here is a link to the diagram and parts:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5100355&diagram_id=21670424#d21670424
- J

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Capt. Spock said: "An ancestor of mine maintained, that if you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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I am assuming you are taking of the drum rollers and they are located inside the dryer uop against the back of the dryer:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-tears-clothes+repair.htm

page 6 it is on the right rear of dryer:

http://imagebank.indesitcompany.co.uk/brochures_online/pdf/Hotpoint/Dryers/HBTL71.pdf

stokes appliances found on the net

2 Things could have happened. The heating element may have separated during the no thermostat test. Try disconnecting 1 leg of the heating element and read resistance across the heating element.

The 2nd thing that may have happened is that 1 of the 2 main breakers tripped. Go to the main panel.. force the dryer CB to OFF i.e PUSH it to OFF then flip it back on. Then try the dryer one more time.

IF you still have the same no heat problem... then it is time to look at, the power from the timer control, the motor switch, the temp selector and possibly a thermistor or High temp thermostat.

I tried crossing this model number : CTD00P and it does not cross to any appliance. If you woul plese recheck the number and post it here if you need more assistance.

Kelly

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Check the heating element and thermal fuses for continuety

Clean the filter dude!!

You need the drum wheels and/or the wear pads replaced. If you continue like this, you will make more damage and the cost will be greater. Repair it while your at the warning stage. This involves completely opening the unit and removing the drum. If not up to it, call an expert. goodluck, Macgivor

Put belt around spindle then pull pulleys apart and rest onto belt.
I am assuming that the spring which holds the pulleys together is still in place.
Please post back if any further assistance needed.
Thankyou for using Fixya.

Most all washer/dryer manufacturers put a wiring diagram and electrical schematic somewhere on the unit. Sometimes it's in the "head", others it's on the inside of the removeable panel used to access underneath the gut's of the unit, from the back. And then sometimes it's just on the back of the unit.

I tried to find a wiring diagram for you, put the Model number does not come up.

I cannot find a support site for sears appliances that was helpful but most of them have spring clips that hold the top into place just pry it shightly up and pull it the rest of the way starting from the front. Once the top is opened you can see the motor and belt. You can also see it from the bottom by tiping it up and laying it on the side

I am not an expert but I do have a Hotpoint 9334 Tumble Dryer which I guess is similar to the 9314.
To replace belt or heater element you must remove the front panel complete with door.
Screws are different sizes in different places so note where they belong as you remove them.

1. Remove 2 screws at rear top which go through the brackets holding the top panel, slide back the top panel a little and lift it off.
2. Pull off the rotary timer knob and remove 2 screws beneath.
3. This is the tricky bit! Remove the the plastic panel which covers the switches etc.. This panel has 5 plastic fingers which secure it to the metal plate behind, locate the ends of the fingers where they pass through the metal plate. Using a metal rod or punch and a hammer, tap the ends of the fingers to push them back through the holes easing each in turn a little at a time to avoid distorting the plastic unduly. (This is a bit scary as you have to hit them quite hard and the fingers look fragile)
4. Open the door and remove the 4 screws then remove 3 screws at the top and 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel. Lift and ease forward the front panel, unhook the door catch release wire, pull off the electrical connectors and put the front panel aside.
5. Lay the machine on its back and remove 1 screw holding the element housing to the top plate and pull off the electrical connectors.
6. Fit the belt around the drum, through the idler pulleys and over the motor spindle.
7. Put it all back together.

my dryer doesn,t heat up & after a while the time delay,high heat & on off button flash.