Top 20 Hotpoint NVL333GY Gas Dryer Questions & Answers

That dryer works very similar to a dryer I worked on not long ago with same idler. basic electrolux style dryer with various hotp[oint ge name brands attached to it. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

check this link for ideas and diagrams http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

Might be a bad belt or bad tension roller wheel. You would have to dismantle the machine.

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...It will help you determine what is happening there...Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noiseheatman101 Asker

You will have to replace the dryer with a electric one or have your local gas company install tank and run lines for you unless there's natural gas line where you live which you will need the city come and run a line or a qualified gas technician come do it but this will be costly. I would recommend buying a good quality used one or a new one it would be cheaper. Also since the gas prices have been sky high on propane and NG allot of people have switched to electric over the last two years and most appliance company's even mine wont trade or give anything for it just a fyi but good luck and hope this helps.

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Here is a video at this will walk you thru the troubleshooting a gas dryer. The disassembly should be similar.

the timer : if you use time dry the timer should always move and complete the cycle. if you use auto dry the timer uses a sensor to tell the timer to move. If your not getting any heat your sensor might not tell the timer to move.

So lets start with the no heat problem. First make sure your Vent is clear or just disconnect the vent and put a pair of womans stocking over the end to keep the dust down, This will ensure you do not have a blocked vent. ((( If you have a blocked vent on a gas dryer the safty sensor will shut off the gas valve and you will only get a little bit of heat))) Now try the dryer for small load, ((( if this solved your problem then you have a cloged vent )))

If this did not solve your problem then the coils on your gas valve in the dryer are probably bad.

Hi,
That depends on many variables... but as a rule I would say about half time...once it is warmed up...

heatman101

There is nothing to lubricate since the bearing are sealed. Grease and oil travels and will getr inside the drum is most cases. If you do decide to repack the bearings with grease a strong saftey pin is needed to pop out the grease seals on the bearings. If the belt tensioners pulley bearing squeaks, replace that pulley along with the belt.
The top and front panels will have to be removed to gain access to the internal parts. The drum will pull directly out when the panels are removed as well
Disconnect the electric before tearing down

Hi. I am assuming that you have selected the correct model number when posting your question. At the top of this page, it says that the your unit in question is a Hotpoint NVL333GY. If this is not your model, please post the entire correct model number, asap. This is a very important issue that can greatly affect the accuracy off the solution.

With that said; This particular model of Hotpoint dryers are not equipped with a "traditional" pilot light configuration. This unit is equipped with a booster coil assembly and glow ignitor. The glow ignitor is basically your lighting apparatus and the coils open and close the gas valve, with the help from a few monitoring thermostats and the main control board or timer mechanism. If you have power going to the unit and gas is on, you should be able to start the cycle by selecting a drying cycle with the timer dial and pushing the start button. If the dryer dose not respond, or if the drum turns without any heat, this will be the result of a failing burner assembly(coil damage or ignitor failure) or the timer and monitoring thermostats/fuses maybe suspect.

Click here to view a exploded diagram of the burner assembly in this model.

The flame sensor is labeled number 1379
The ignitor is labeled 1374
The coil assembly will be labeled 1372 and 1371(Boost and secondary coil are mounted together)
The burner is labeled number 1377
The actual valve is labeled number 1370

All the parts above make up your burner assembly, in this particular model.

Here is a basic summary on how these dryers work.

The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exist.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

Burner assembly inspection:

On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101
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there is no standing pilot lite in thes units

Hi,
If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

here are a few reasons that you will get heat for a few min and then no heat.

1. if the vent is cloged, anywhere in the flexable hose to the wall or from the wall to outside. If the vent is cloged the flame in the unit will widen and the thermostat hi limit will shut she burner off untill it cools.
2. The coils for the burner could be bad and will allow the burner to light a couple of cycles and then will get hot and internaly disconect the coil untill it cools down and then will repeat and will get worse over time.

The good news :) The ignitor is good if it lights a flame, If the flame burns for more that 10 sec then the flame switch is mostlikley good. The main valve in most cases will also be good.



Im using Model # NVL333GY0WW

No, there are shims that the drum most likely sit on that need replacing. I had the same problem with mine. It made a horrid sound before the fix. You will have to go to an appliance repair shop to get the shims or you can order them online.

A tumble dryer that isn't heating up at all needs checking with a continuity test meter. The most common cause is a heating element failure, or t.o.c's going open circuit. It depends on which make and model of tumble dryer you have as to how easy it is to get to the relevant parts. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter
or
If power is getting to the tumble dryer and the socket is definitely OK, then the most common problem with tumble dryers not working is when the door micro switch fails, or the catch on the door that operates the switch either breaks or no longer activates the door switch. Check for broken door catches. There is usually a plastic peg on the door that pushes through a hole in the tumble dryer's casing where the door catch is. Closing the door should operate a simple micro switch. If the plastic peg is broken or bent it might not operate the switch properly

There is no pilot light. You probably got water into gas jets, also all electronics to ignitor need to be dryed. Also blow out all gas parts. If dryer was plugged in at time of flood you could have shorted one of the thermal switches behind back cover. Check all of this I wrote.

i sell parts online you can visit whirlpoolpartssurplus.com and get the phone number off there and i can order it for you

Try checking the belt that wrap's around the drum, sound's like it might be broken.