20 Most Recent Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 5 Questions & Answers

WB13K21 is the ignitor that goes in your stove,i looked up part number RGB 745 and it doesn't come up as a good part number,if the bake ignitor works you can try that up in the broil,they are the same,if it lites then you know the ignitor they put in is no good.here's the sears site so you can see the ignitor yourself.http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Hotpoint-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-RGB745DEP1CT/1811/0124002/G0907278/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

The broiler ignitor and the bake ignitor or intrchangeable. You could swap em out to see if the ignitor i weak OR just buy another igniotr. Observe the brightness of the broil ignitor to the bake one. The Bake one being dim is too weak to open the gas valve. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi. This is quite common with gas ranges of this nature. I will list the most common culprits below:1. Gas valve coil assembly malfunction(Most likely culprit)2. Ignition Faults(damaged ignitor)3. Oven temperature sensor faults(unable to read oven temp)4. Main logic board or PCB damage(Control board issues)I would advise to unplug the unit for five minutes. This will induce a hard reset that will reset the main board. Once this is done, plug or reintroduce power to the unit and try to preform a normal baking session. observe the ovens actions. If the faults persist, Start your troubleshooting by checking the sensor(oven temp sensor) for faults. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test).The most common oven sensors should be approximately 1100 ohms at room temperature. Other temperatures are as follows:100F - 1143 ohms200F - 1350 ohms300F - 1553 ohms(You will essentially want to test it at room temp)The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.If the sensor checks out ok and the wiring is connected without any faults, move on to the other areas of concern. I will list the other procedures below.

Hello,

This youtube video will show ya how to replace that sensor it's pretty easy really
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuyZ4PqSK4g

GENE

Hello,

To self clean that oven REMOVE THE RACKS, slide the door latch from the right to the left,push the self clean button,push the up/down arrows to set the clean time (usual clean time is 4 hours 30 minutes) push start

After the clean is over it may take a additional hour before the door will open if the latch doesn't move back easily to the the right once self clean clean is done do not force it just wait more time



GENE

If you are referring to the oven pilot lite, you will need to replace the "Oven Pilot with Thermocouple". Here is a link to the part you need.

try to relite pilot if that dont work tap on saftey valve were the flame bar connects to if that dont work replace saftey valve

Remove the racks and and the bottomThen the flame spreader and you get this: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It's possible that while cleaning around the burners, the burners got debris that is clogging them. If you remove them, try blowing them out with a can of compressed air. You can also use a paperclip to clear the obstruction.

Ok
Is your igniter glowing when oven turned on.Look for bright orange glow near burner.If yes ,and no ignition,then igniter is weak and needs replacing.No glow at all,then a voltage test at the igniter needs to be done to see if it might be thermostat problem. Very common for igniters to go.Most likely cause.



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This model should have pilotless electronic ignition.If you hear clicking when you light the burners , it is electronic,. Also , open broiler drawer and turn on oven .After a few seconds do you see a glow start?Thats your electronic oven igniter confirming you have no pilot.




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Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Most gas ranges with electronic ignition aren't equipped to have a straight pilot ignition.
I'm don't even think they make conversion kit because of the routing of the gas tubing for the pilot source.

Usually you have to turn the gas knob way over to get the "click-click-click" of the igniter.
Its just as easy to turn on the gas and light with a match...or a long butane lighter.
Even a "striker" used in welding will provide a source of ignition.
A last ditch effort would be to get a replacement gas grill igniter...all ya gotta do is place the bottom of igniter on metal surface and press red button. (kinda works like a spark plug) and no A/C needed.

Hope this helps some.

What happens when you use a long match or a long butane lighter? Does the gas ignite?

Since the igniter is working in another burner, then either the gas isn't getting to the burner (sealed burner blocked), the spark is being blocked or the electrical connection to the igniter is bad.

Take apart the burner and clean the openings. Make sure that the hole in the part that slides over the electrode is clear (use a needle or the wire from a twist-tie). See page 28 of the manual. (available online from http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/ . Enter the model and click submit). Make sure you replace the parts of the burner correctly.

My range also has an orifice at each burner that could be blocked. Turn off the gas before investigating this. Look at the instructions for converting the range from NG to LP - this should be attached to the back of the range near the regulator. This will tell you how to access the orifice and what size wrench to use. I believe my range uses 10 mm.

To check the wiring, you may need to lift the cook top. Often the top is secured with clips on the left and right sides.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hi yitz321,

The F2 error often occurs when the control senses oven temperature above 615F - 630F. The easiest way to correct this is by looking for a welded relay contact on bake or broil relays. If it has a welded relay contact, please replace the oven control. The oven control is the one who measures resistance of sensor circuit, not an actual oven temperature.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for using FixYa.

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

Oven igniter bad. Easily replaced: http://www.repairclinic.com/Igniter-Parts?s=t-RGB745WEH-%3d%3dc40

The glowbar ignitor in the oven must be replaced.