Top 20 Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

if new, you don't have to pay, simply take it back and get your money back or a replacement. if not new, you have to pay to get it fixed.

I believe the refrigerator doesn't have enough space for venting. Leave more space between refrigerator and wall and it should be fine.

sounz like the water solenoid is clogged / defective.

Is compressor (black canister)running? It should be very warm if it is. If not, motherboard is most likely bad.

Hello: It is very common to have the line in the freezer door freeze up. I would start there first. If that's not it then next step would be your water valve which is located in the back/bottom of the fridge. It is a dual valve( one side for ice maker the other for water dispenser). you can check that by taking off the front kick plate and on the bottom freezer door hinge you will see the line entering the door. Follow it towards the under the fridge and you will find a coupling. Disconnect it and see if there is any water coming out when you press actuator on the door .. If yes then its frozen if no your valve is Kaput. Cheers

I am wondering about the hose you shoved in and the leak stopped. Is the hose you pushed in buckled where it hooks on or is there a buckled spot where the water comes out of the fridge. Just a guess.

Make sure the temps in the fridge aren't cold enough to freeze the filter... Water valves rarely fail at both solenoids at the same time, so be sure the water supply is turned on and that the water line is not kinked (bent in half) behind the machine... Hotpoint Refrigerator Water Filter MWFP , Hotpoint Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve WR57X10032

Try the self help section of repairclinic.com. You can get model specific trouble shooting advice there.

Your fridge's compressor motor is suspended inside the compressor housing on three or four springs. These springs are designed to hold the motor load in a vertical position. Transporting a fridge on it's side can stretch or break these springs which can cause a shudder stop condition (the fridge makes a shuddering banging noise everytime the compressor stops and sometimes when it starts). It's a good idea to let a fridge sit for a bit anytime it is moved. Over night won't hurt but an 8-10 hours is more than enough time some say less. the internet consensus seems to be that you should limit the amount of time the unit is not upright. And as stated above, leave it upright at least overnight before starting it. Apparently damage can arise from mixing of lubricant and coolant, so damage is more likely in an older unit with worn seals.

are u sure the noise is from the condenser fan and not the capacitor near compressor? the fan in freezer is making noise usually due to bad impeller or blocked bcuz of ice build up due to defrost problem?

First thing I'd do is defrost it completely, that means turning it off for a few hours with door open & letting the ice melt, you could be getting a buildup of ice in your freezer jamming the fan before the automatic defrost has time to clear it. Also check that the seals are sealing completely, (that can allow frost to form in freezer), if not use a hair dryer to soften them (gently) & mould them back into line.

Rust is cause by presence of water you either have condensation (due to we insulation) or some kind of water leak.

The word is that many fridge manufacturers didn't insulate enough in the freezer door. The easiest fix I found for this is get some styrofoam from the walls of a cheap cooler and tape it to the inside of the freezer side door right behind where the water and ice dispenser are located. It works faster if you turn off the fridge for a couple of hours to let the water line thaw first. Then it should remain unfrozen.

The same thing happened to me then I noticed ice had formed at the bottom of our fridge. It was covering a drain hole so water was leaking out the front of fridge instead of going to the drain pan or wherever the hole goes. After I chipped out the ice and cleared the hole with warm water the leak stopped. I also fixed another leak coming from bottom of fridge caused by a loose brass connection on water line going to the door.

most likely you have a defrost problem,usually the defrost heater part WR51X10055 and thermister wr55x10025.you can unplug the fridge,remove food and shelves to get at the back wall,with a hair dryer melt the ice,put a towel on the freezer floor,when you can remove the screws that hold the back wall on remove the screws and pull out the back panel so you can get at the evap coil,now melt out all the ice,get another towel and stick it under the evap coil so the melted water can't go down the drain hole under the coil,the pan that catches the water won't be able to handle all the melted water from the coil and this way it won't flood out onto your floor,once you have the ice melted your fridge will run normally for 7 to 10 days so you can get the parts and still keep your food cold,if you already moved your food just keep it unpluged until you get the parts that are bad.when you have the ice melted you'll see the heater on the bottom of the coil,you have to remove the two phillips screws,remove the heater from the coil bracket,disconnect the two wires and check the heater with a meter,also on the top of the coil you'll see a white piece that kind of looks like a bullet,if this has a black ring around it where the wires connect to it you should change that too,the new part is all white,it's made better but if you're in there already and the heater is bad i would change the thermister too.you also have a mother board in the back of the machine part WR55X10942 that also could be bad but i'd check the heater first.good luck and hope this helps you out

First you'll need to determine whether it's a sealed system issue or failure of some other part. Troubleshooting system problems is beyond the scope of this media. YouTube has literally hundreds of such videos.

You need to remove the door from the refrigerator, then remove from the door the plastic frame carefuly, its snaping, and attach the new (1/4") line to the end of existing line then pull up the existing line softhly until the new one appears, check before all this if the line is broken at then of door or in the middle and if leak is below the refrigerator check from the solenoid to the door.

Possible failed water inlet solenoid valve or the water line is frozen.

on this model it is included on the main circuit board # 801

The refrigerator has a blocked condensate drain line. In most Hotpoint models it is easily accesed by pulling out the bin at the bottom. There should be a drain grommet at the center of a trough in back. This plugs up. You may have to pour hot water the thaw out the ice and then either blow out the drain tube or I use a 5/15 plastic hose and push it through the drsin to clear it out. this should fix the problen for a long time. Food particles etc. collect in the drain and ice forms around them and blocks the drain.