20 Most Recent Hotpoint RVM1435 Microwave Oven - Page 8 Questions & Answers

That filter kit should be JX81A and you can get it here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

You can get your owner's manual directly from the GE site: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/

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Magnatron is suspect. Need to put a voltmeter on it and see if the input (primary) side to the high-voltage transformer (big heavy iron thing in there) is getting 120Vac. Don't touch the other (high voltage) side of this transformer. If the power is there, you are looking at replacing the magnatron. Its affordable if you do it yourself - buy the part on EBAY - lookup "universal magnatron"

Sadly, we hear of this over and over.

This is usually due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

The parts kit (that GE used to pay for) is part # WB27X10489 and is shown in the photo here:

If you or a friend decide to look into it yourselves, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

If you'd rather find a ocal servicer, GE Customer Service is at http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/contact/

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Sounds like a bad connection inside. unplug the power, take off the cover, look over all the connectors closely.

This answer assumes yours is a Hotpoint RVM1435, as posted.

If not, please reply back with your correct brand and model.

Model RVM1435 does not have a feature to turn off the beeper.

You can download Hotpoint and GE owner's manuals here:

http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

possibly not they stoped using them in the late 80's

This may sound crazy but I had one do the same years ago. I cleaned the touch board with glass cleaner and would work fine until got dirty again. Won't hurt to try!

It's likely to be the magnetron or a bad connection on the FA terminal of the magnetron, but it may be a bad connection or relay on the control board. This is a page showing how a microwave oven works. A detailed, illustrated explanation. http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/how_work.html If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 Also, this model may have a "mini-manual" / tech sheet inside which is very helpful in troubleshooting.

It could be an overheating magnetron. There is a thermostat inside (mounted to the side of the magnetron) which senses excessive heat and opens up, disconnecting the power to the oven. If that's the case, unplugging it and plugging it back in will not fix it. It will come back on by itself after it cools down. That's another indication that it might be a thermostat kicking out. You might try to further characterize the failure: - happens only when cooking on full power? - also happens when cooking on a low power level? - shuts down every time you use it? - only shuts down after XX amount of time cooking? Once you characterize it more, I can make further suggestions. It may also be a bad connection on the control panel.

google your Hotpoint model number include parts, Dowsil is approved but is price prohibitive.

Could be a faulty control knob.

Yes you do indeed need a new door. The door is a complete safety unit and access to the microwave.

27 Litres

There is a chip that controls TOTAL operation of the microwave, sounds like it malfunctioned. It actually sound like the entire board has malfunctioned. good luck https://www.6ya.com/mrmmike

Many microwaves have similar issues. Usually, (not always) only the light is on and the fan is running, not the section that produces the microwaves. This problem can be caused by the door switches that are out of alignment or a defective control board.

Most microwave diodes will work just fine from system to system. The most common ones I use are rated at 550ma. When you check your old diode what made you think it was bad? They are such a high rating you will not get a reading on it with a regular ohm meter. Mostly on HV rectifiers if it is not shorted ( Zero Ohms) it is probably good. If you have no high voltage then substitute it and see if you do get high voltage, then you know it was open. Follow the video and give it a try.

"F3" means you have a shorting membrane keypad. I regularly repair these controllers and details are here. If you have other questions, it's best to follow up with me directly. (FixYa does not notify us directly when follow-ups are posted, so we have to log in to the site to see them.) - William E. Miller, AS-EET [email protected] http://www.microwavecontrol.com Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide "Recycling by repairing since 1982"

None to my knowledge, but common faults include keypad failure (may show error code "F3") and cooktop light failure, both of which can be affordably repaired. (See link below) For more free DIY and other help & advice, feel free to contact me via my site below. Please include FULL model number*, FCC ID number*, + detailed symptom information. ( * on the tag in cooking cavity or around door frame or control frame or on back) William E. Miller, AS-EET http://www.microwavecontrol.com Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide "Recycling by repairing since 1982"