20 Most Recent Frigidaire Refrigerator White Fridge & Freezer Handle Set - 5304485330 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

There are a few possible reasons why an Electrolux window AC unit may be blowing cold air when set to heat mode. Here are a few things you can try to fix the problem:

1. Check the thermostat settings: Make sure that the thermostat is set to "heat" mode and that the temperature is set higher than the current room temperature.
2. Clean the air filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and prevent the unit from heating properly. Clean or replace the filter according to the manufacturer's instructions.
3. Check the air ducts: Make sure that all of the air ducts are properly connected and that there are no leaks or blockages.
4. Check the compressor: If the compressor is not running, the unit will not heat. Make sure that the compressor is running and that the compressor's fan is functioning properly.
5. Inspect the heating element: Make sure that the heating element is not broken or damaged and check the continuity with a multimeter.
6. Contact the manufacturer or a professional technician if the problem persists or you are unable to troubleshoot the issue.

Note: Before you start troubleshooting, make sure to turn off the power to the unit and unplug it from the electrical outlet.

If your Frigidaire Gallery side-by-side French door refrigerator model FGHF2366PFBA is not making ice after you switched the water filter, there are a few things you can check to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the water pressure: Make sure that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on and that the water pressure is adequate.
2. Check the water filter: Make sure that the new water filter is installed correctly and that it is not clogged.
3. Check the water inlet valve: Make sure that the water inlet valve is not clogged or malfunctioning. It is located behind the refrigerator and controls the flow of water into the ice maker.
4. Check the ice maker arm: Make sure that the ice maker arm is not stuck in the off position.
5. Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat is set to the correct temperature.
6. Check the control board: Make sure that the control board is not malfunctioning.

If the problem persists after checking these things, it may be best to contact a professional technician to diagnose and fix the issue.

Sorry about that useless reply from the new poster who seems to be guessing answers and probably thinks he gets paid for points. Everything on this site is voluntary. I checked and no one else has this problem that you have, which is unusual. My guess is that you have a fault with the door switch or more likely a bad connection on the display board. If can get to it, disconnect the connectors, spray them with electrical contact cleaner and reconnect. Another possibility is some type of feedback from the driver module on these new fangled LED Lights! https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+GRSC2352AF+panel+resets+when+freezer+door+opens ..

It sounds like there may be an issue with the water inlet valve or the wiring between the ice maker and the water inlet valve. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the water supply line: Make sure that the water supply line is properly connected and there are no kinks or blockages in the line.
2. Check the water inlet valve: Make sure that the water inlet valve is functioning properly and is not clogged or damaged. You can test the valve by jumping the two terminals with a small piece of wire. If the valve opens, it is functioning properly.
3. Check the wiring: Make sure that the wiring between the ice maker and the water inlet valve is securely connected and there are no loose or damaged wires.
4. Check the ice maker control board: The control board is responsible for controlling the ice maker and may be the cause of the issue if it is faulty. You can test the control board by unplugging the fridge and using a multimeter to check for continuity between the control board terminals.

If none of these troubleshooting steps resolve the issue, it may be necessary to consult the manufacturer or a professional appliance repair technician for further assistance.

The compressor or other electrical components have quit working. Or there has been ice that has accumulated over the coils. Or the wiring is faulty or the plugs could be loose. The cord could be frayed.You will need to have the while model to be either repaired or replaced.

If the door seal is that bad that it is letting all of the cold out. Put the duct tape on the left, right and bottom edges. Just enough pressure to seal.

This is caused by a blocked defrost drain. The defrost cycle is normally overnight and the condensate that is defrosted from the evaporator fins is supposed to drain into a pan near the compressor where it evaporates. Look on the external and internal rear of the unit for a pipe and a u-bend.

Try unplugging the unit for 5 full minutes, then plug back in and try resetting the filter light.

sounds like compressor not coming on

Had this problem and called customer service and they had no idea. Turns out it's an alert that the suspense is jammed (DISP). Clear it out with your hand and you should be good to go. I figured this out after my kitchen was full of puddles when I got home from work.

Run more water. The cloudiness is just air from the filter membranes. If you put the water in a glass it should clear in 5 to 10 minutes.

Refer to the installation manual. Google make model manual

Hi, please double check that it has enough water to make ice. If so, please power off and clean the machine before attempting to use ice maker again. Thank you.

All guess work but... Scenario 1 Your problem was that it need a defrost timer or defrost heater. They are inexpensive parts. He sold you a door as a bonus (for him). Doors only need a new gasket if they don't seal properly. The evaporator at the rear of the freezer is a big lump of ice, and instead of using a heat gun for defrost it, he left you to do it. Scenario 2 It only need the defrost drain cleaning of gunk and sold you a door as a bonus! I had Scenario 1, but the local tech was honest. He said I have a defrost timer on the van. He fitted it and said "I can leave you to defrost the ice with a hair dryer and put the back panel back and shelf supports on the freezer, or I can defrost with a heat gun, but it will add 20 minutes to your bill. I go him to finish the job, the cost was minimal.

Question edited for clarity, full 'maker model (what it is)'. https://www.hunker.com/12002488/how-to-adjust-the-water-level-on-an-ice-maker More information and videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=Frigidaire+FFRSS2623AS6+increase+water+level+in+ice+tray ..

ice sticks sometimes its just slides around in bin tap bin once in awhile to have ice move about

it needs service, call for service. you have no tools to diagnose it ,right.(skills) so get it serviced. like 99% due for the same reasons.

An EF code is indicative of an Evaporator Fan Circuit Failure. Can it be stopped by ice or frost? Absolutely. Press the freezer up button and the freezer down button simultaneously for 6-8 seconds and you will enter a test mode. Every time you press the fresh food button after entering the test you will advance to the next test. They are not in numerical order. Go to test 26 (The defrost circuit test) and it will show CL for closed or OP for open. If it shows OP you have a defrost issue. If CL there is no defrost problem. Next go to test 15 - keeping in mind they ( the tests are Not in numerical order). When you get to 15 press the main power on/off button. The 1st time you press it the display will show LO and the fan should be on low speed. The next time you press the power button it will show HI, and the fan should be on high. It is a twelve vdc fan motor wire colors red, yellow, brown, and blue. They originate at the j6a and j4a connectors. If the fan does not come on in the test the check will be made at the control. There should always be 12vdc between brown and red, and there should be 9 - 12 vdc between brown and yellow in the test. The blue wire is a tach wire and feeds info back to the lower control which is located behind the kick plate underneath the unit. EX factory service 22 years currently an instructor. If you are not equipped with the proper tools and or knowledge please call a competent technician. KEEP IT SIMPLE

Even though my door was closing fine it was beeping and saying "door ajar", so I first removed the switch. But that wasn't faulty and even with it out of the equation the beeping was there. I fiddled around some more but rather than rip everything apart, I popped out the electronics on the front and twisted off the little round black beeper in the circuit board. Now I don't have a working door alarm. But otherwise: problem solved! ;)

Starts cooling in 10 minutes and to the set temperature in 2 hours.