20 Most Recent
Samsung / RF197ACRS Questions & Answers
Rf197acrs freezer cold but refrigerator too warm
I have had this issue a couple of times. The microprocessor is sensitive to voltage spikes and dips. My refrigerator gave false temp reading and allowed the freezer to thaw after a spike and again after using an espresso machine with a high electrical draw on the same line. Had to unplug the refrigerator for a few minutes to let the memory clear and reset. Added a pair of thermometers to check temp since.
Everything is working correctly now,
12/28/2016 3:15:56 PM •
Samsung /...
•
Answered
on Dec 28, 2016
RF197ACRS Samsung fridge How to remove glass from the shelves to clean
Well, I don't know about the individual shelves, but for the long glass shelf above the crisper drawers, there are two white clips located at the back edges of the glass that need to be pried out with a knife blade, or something similar. Place your blade in between one of the grooves of where the clip meets the plastic frame (and, NOT between the clip and glass! ) and pry the clip with a bit of a sideways motion. It's a little stubborn, but if you break a clip, don't worry, you really don't need it for the shelf to function.
Anyway, after you pry up the two corner clips, lift and slide the glass toward the back to get it out of the front groove, and voila!, the glass comes right out.
Good luck!
8/14/2015 6:12:14 AM •
Samsung /...
•
Answered
on Aug 14, 2015
Why evaporator fan does not run
Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge door walls are very hot:
the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..
The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.
4/10/2015 6:52:07 AM •
Samsung /...
•
Answered
on Apr 10, 2015
Not finding what you are looking for?