20 Most Recent Miele 35 in. KM326G Gas Cooktop Questions & Answers

Actually when igniter gets hot, it opens the gas valve, then gas flows.The igniter gets hot to the required temperature then the gas valve opens.In your case the igniter is not getting required hot so the gas valve is not getting open.It can be problem with weak igniter.Because if burners are problem the burners will not work at all.If gas valve is problem then gas will not flow at all.In your case burners work, so this indicates gas is flowing.But if igniter is weak, it will take time to get heated and this causes the problem.But if igniter checks out ok, then other possibility is loose, shorting wire to the burner or problem with spark module.-------- The spark module located underneath the cooktop.And the wiring going to each burner . ------------- This possibilities are to be checked.This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Hello Leighvz,
The rings around the burners should be cleaned periodically. Each one has a series of holes to let the gas come out and have to be set back perfectly or else you will continually have this problem. You can clean with regular dish soap an water and a sponge or rag.
Also, If you put a pot or pan on the burner and it is too large it will cut off oxygen to the burner causing your clicking. The clicking only occurs when the oxygen supply is not enough. Hope this helps

You can buy the conversion kit to be installed by your propane dealer. However, you must contact your dealer and they will contact the Miele Technical Service to order the part. You can try calling directly: (800) 999-1360 or [email protected]. They may request your cooktop serial number as well as the model. This information is on the silver plate on the cooktop.

There is a search engine for Miele dealers: http://www.mieleusa.com/locator/locator_new.asp?nav=800&snav=800&tnav=800&oT=7&menu_id=31 . However, the page isn't coming up correctly for me.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

The electrical portion of the switch is bad, you need to replace it.

You could have a clog in your gas line. Have the gas company come out to check the pressure.

Hi JHMcdona

Most likely the electrode for the right burner is defective. As well as the switch may also be defective (is shorted because of pressing hard on it trying to make it work!!). Change the electrode and igniter switch of the right front burner.

Regards

Most likely you got water (or some other liquid) into the control knobs. Unplug, go to bed and try it again in the morning. If you continue to futz with it, you run the chance of burning out the electronics in the control knob, like I did. :(

I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat. The surface of the board was charred beyond repair.
To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs. If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics. If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter.
Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners.
To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides. Here are the instructions from the user manual:
Disassembly
Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs.
In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports.
Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob.
Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals.
To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST

Contact Miele directly via their website. This would require an orifice change if it is possible for this appliance. Since natural gas, butane, and propane are all forms of LP (Liquified Petroleum), it is usually, but not always, possible.

If it is possible, then the orifice has to be changed. The regulator may need to be changed as well. I am a certified LP technician for recreational vehicles, but I don't know enough about this particular appliance to say for sure if it can be converted. The best thing is to contact Miele directly, but this sort of conversion always requires a different orifice. Note that propane, butane, and natural gas are all forms of LP (Liquified petroleum), so conversion between the 3 is usually possible

Pull off the knob and then see if you can push the shaft in. If you can, then the knob is hitting something, preventing you from being able to push the knob in. Adjust the knob until you can push it in. If you can't push the shaft in with the knob off, then the control valve is broken and you will have to replace it.

Finally I found the meaning of FE 31. FE31 means "control panel is dirty" or "some object is on the control panel" When error code FE31 appear on the control panel, clean the control panel area with clean wet paper towel or remove any object on the control panel. If you do not trust me, turn on the cooktop and put small piece of paper towel on control panel. You cannot see FE31 error code soon. Turn off the cooktop and remove the piece of paper towel, the error code EF31 will disappear.