Samsung RF267AEWP - 26 cu. ft. French Door Refrigerator - White - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

compressors use a small start / run capacitor to start the compressor modern fridges do not like spikes from power outages and many power boards and electronic components fail because of this and I am inclined top use a surge protector before the fridge cord plug I went google and typed in --fault code 88-88 for samsung fridge model rf26aewp and the first site up is error codes /messages/ blinking the site is support-us.samsung>popup>iframe there is a detailed answer there with a list of fault codes as well and what they indicate there are other sites that also refer to the fault that you have

Had same problem on my fridge a long time ago. Here is what was wrong on mine. Debris had clogged up around the fan blades to the point where the very small motor that runs the fan was not powerful enough to make the fan turn. When this happens the compressor has to work harder and harder until it finally shut down on safety cutout. I had to open the back of the fridge and clean up the fan blades, [ took the opportunity to put a small amount of oil on the fan shaft too, my Norge fridge is now over 50 years old.]

using again and again it is faulty,you should checked the cooling matchine with all parts.

Your description makes me think the compressor motor has shorted turns causing it to overheat and trip the thermal link. Time for a new compressor or a replacement freezer may be less expensive.

They generally use 1/4" tubing.

It should be on the right, front or back:. I can see a dipstick from the bottom up on the front right on the first video and on the pickup, maybe it is the same engine, at the right rear. also you can join a largo group at largo friends How to check and add oil on 1995 Nissan Pickup Truck 1989 2000 Project Nissan Largo retimed first start Nissan Largo Friends

Check the thermostat, and the cooling fluid. Tao the thermostat en see if it will start the compressor. When you hear the compressor running and still no cooling, you must have lost the cooling fluid. (used to be freon)

Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. Your problem is not your thermostat. In some models the compressor knocks out the overload relay. They relay could last a few seconds or a few weeks before the compressor knocks it out again. This is especially turn with the LG units. You will need a multi-meter to check your compressor. 1.) Unplug your unit. Remove the bottom back cover. 2.) Remove the overload components to expose the 3 pins on the compressor. 3.) Inspect the pins on the compressor. Are they clean or are they damaged from heat (Steel melting). 4.) With your multi-meter, set the meter on the lowest Ohms. Read the Ohms between each of the pins. You will have 3 readings. One reading will be high and the other 2 readings will be lower. Add the 2 lower readings together. This value must equal the high reading within a few tenths. I hope I am wrong. A new compressor depending on the model is $275-$450.00. Include a system filter for $40.00, plus new refrigerant $45.00 and the cost od an experienced technician $300.00.

Hello Danie; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F. You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do. The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period. A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.

There is a drain tube located under the panel of most freezers. If that clogs up, the auto defrost can't work. The freezer defrosts by evaporating all the moisture out of the compartment. So, check that first. Secondly, a leaky door seal can also cause that problem. You can order door seals online or on Amazon.

www.samsung.com/us/support/downloads

I am not familiar with that unit but I assume you are talking degrees C. There should be a thermostat you can change. It may already be at the coldest setting, I do not know. Most of these units have a minimum temperature they will operate at, if you are at that point you will have to either change the thermostat or modify it in either case it would void the warranty.

try to adjust thermostat setting together with the defrost timer. check and clean condenser and fan blower if working observe compressor if working continuesly.

Hi,
I am sorry to hear regarding the trouble.
This is a common problem on this model and unfortunately, there is nothing you could do other than unplugging the unit for few minutes, say 15 minutes and then turning it ON. This would usually reset the error code. If the problem still remains, then it is either bad thermal sensor or whole digital controller.
If you wish to repair, revert and i would be glad to provide few more inputs to the diagnosis.
I wish i could have a better solution.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Samsung service manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

it may be froze up, and require a defrosting. use a portable fan to speed up this process , also make sure the fan in the freezer compartment is working, with a little work and a zoom spout oiler, or some light motor oil, the motor can be sparked back to life.. freeze ups are common with the high humidity we are having these days.. jay the pool pump motor repair guy longwood Florida

Hi,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Regards.

Fan unit or defrost element has failed, usually the defrost element, not a hard DIY, just be very careful. Check fan is running first and that it is not part of the new icy growth inside the freezer, regardless, you will need to defrost this glacier first before you can do anything and PLEASE dont resort to a blow torch, there is plastic and pressure gas in there. Just be patient and watch the fins on the cooling unit, you could shave with that stuff. Good luck, any probs, call me on 08 9523 0552. Russ

TRY SWITCHING OFF FOR TEN MINS THEN TURN BACK ON..

whats the make and model of the refrigerator