20 Most Recent General Electric Ge Appliances GEH50DNSRSA - 50 Gallon, Hybrid Water Heater, Advanced Heat Pump Techn Questions & Answers

I purchased and installed my GE Hybrid Jan 2013. Several days after the install the "Filter Check" beeper/LED started. I reset it and it keep kicking in. I took a peep under the covers and discovered the T5 sensor was laying on the floor pan near the compressor. There is a hole in the 240V box, above the evap coils. I attached the T5 sensor there. At least from a diagram perspective it match the location for the T5. fast forward to Aug 12. The filter beeping/LED start again. There was a "little" dust on the filter. I cleaned it and it went two days and came back. I started the diag and T5 looks good (75 degrees). I put my HVAC temp probe on the compressor in. Matches 76 degrees on my probe. The compressor out, not so happy. The diag (E4) says 131, my probe says 158. Me think the GE Sensor is funny or the GE computer/program does no how to "tell time and temperature". I'm going to button it up and see what happens. It probably going to be a GE service/parts call.

1) Copy following links for detailed resources:http://waterheatertimer.org/Review-GE-Heat-Pump-water-heater.html#errorhttp://waterheatertimer.org/GE-heat-pump-manuals-by-date.html2) T2 is tank temperature sensor failure located just above upper element.Call for service/ warranty.Call GE 888-433-43943) Was water heater completely full of water before applying power.Do you have 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.Is unit receiving 208-240 Volt power. Click breaker fully on-off.Move wire to another same size circuit breaker. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Type, brand, model number of water heater is not known.If you have GE heat pump water heater, the parts are covered after first year for defects in workmanship. Otherwise the expensive water heater is not covered if it stops working.The risk of failure is perfect reason to avoid expensive water heaters, because all costs are energy, and these units cannot guarantee longevity, even with correct and regular maintenance.If your new laptop computer needs a motherboard, that's red flag that the computer machine will never work correctly again. Same is true for water heaters, or any expensive digitally-controlled appliance.Same is true for tankless water heaters and hybrid water heaters and condensing water heaters and complicated solar water heater systems.Call the manufacturer and see what they say.Check voltage to unit. Make sure the unit is grounded.Post question with exact mode and brand name on professional water heater forum.http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/ If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If the thermocouple is OK, the combustion air vents may need to be cleaned. Otherwise, the combustion shutoff device has probably tripped which will need to be replaced.

You have to give us more to go on other than this.

The ECO is designed to shut off the water heater in case of the water heater overheating. This is to prevent the water heater from exploding. I assume that you have a newer style residental water heater or a commerical boiler. The ECO is a fuseable link that is built into the control and located at the thermostat probe. If the water heater overheats then this link will melt cutting the circuit on the millivolt system(residential) or 24volt system(commercial boiler). If you look under the water heater control(where the temp adjustment is) there are usuall two wires that go from the control to the water heater. These are the ECO wires. Verify the wires have not been cut or damaged. If these wires are cut or damaged then the ECO circuit will be incomplete and you will get the ECO lockout failure. Also make sure that the flame lock-out switch is not tripped. It will be located at the burner compartment cover and have two wires going to it. Most have a little button in the center. These are to sense high heat and one might have tripped closing the circuit. You can push this little button to re-set the switch. If you feel a little "click" then the switch was probably tripped. If it does not have any button then it might be "self resetting". To test that switch use a continuity tester and the circuit should be closed. If these switches are working then the fusable link for the ECO is probably bad from the water heater temp getting too high or was defective and failed. This will require you to remove the water heater control valve and replace the fusable link. If you do not have experience with this I suggest you call a licensed plumber to make the repairs. If this repair is improperly done it could void the warranty on the water heater and/or cause property/personal damage or injury. There is a possiblilty that your water heater thermostat had failed causing the ECO to trip. If that is the case then the ECO safety did it's job.

The sensor end is about the size of a match stick and sits in the pilot flame. Follow the wire to where it is threaded into the control. Unscrew and screw a new one in. Be sure to position sensor end in the pilot flame.

Water pressure is blowing everyting loose with new heater,give your system a good flush,it will work it self out. RichieRich

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Faucet a tub has a restriction or valve is not opening.

Water system had a break somewhere and dirt got in the line. Change filters.

Check the circuit breaker in the house power panel.

Did you apply power before you filled water heater with water? If so, the heating element is burned open and will need replacing. Have you checked that the circuit breaker is "ON"?