20 Most Recent LG 6871ER1023Q Main Pwb pcb Assembly - Page 7 Questions & Answers

PERHAPS THE DRUM HAS RUSTED THRU ,IF SO IT NEEDS REPLACED

call a repair service locally

we do not put plumbing in for anyone

Hello Paul, Try to search on internet for "lg wd100c service manual". You can find usefull info for repair the washing machine. De2 means the drawrr is closed, but not locked.

balance sensor defective.http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/lg-sensor-assembly-item-number-ap4440678.aspx .

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Washer will not drain: The drain water pump is the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure to check the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself inside of it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Read more:  HYPERLINK "http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/" l "ixzz3X2LbXMWJ" http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machine drain hose is where the water flows through to get the water out. If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the water from the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it The water pump belt (to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose. If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing the NO DRAIN issue and remove and replace if needed. If the lid switch is not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems). This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to also not agitate or spin. However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuity My advice is free cuz God is good!

yes che3ck the water inlet valve for bad connection or blockaGE, IT MAY ALSO BE BAD IN THE COLD WATER COIL, U CAN TEST WITH A MULTIMETER. FOR RESISITANCE

check to see if ur washer has a thermal fuse that blew? or check bad door switch, and off on switch may be bad, test with a meter

LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START: Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor. MACHINES SAIDS SENSING When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load. NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal. Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue. Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors. This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed. I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor. Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem. If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault. A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel. The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in God is good and that's why I give free advice.

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Again place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! No agitation? first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( If No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad coupler can be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

check the hoses and clamps under the washer and the tub also as it may have a hole or crack in it? also check the water inlet valve as it may be leaking from the connecters

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2w By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

I used an old wire hanger and stuck it into the drain hose to create a pathway for the water to drain. Once it started dripping out, I used a squirt bottle filled with hot water to squirt into the drain hose and plugged it back. Took the now empty squirt bottle and used it as a siphon. Squeezed the bottle as hard as I could to force air into the hose and the reverse pressure pulled the water and sand out. I repeated this process once the bottle was almost full, plugged the tube, emptied the squirt bottle and repeated until the tube was clear of any sand. Worked like a champ with no messy clean up. Once the tube was drained, then cleaning out the trap was very easy and almost completely dry.

1. Defective dispenser 2. Defective control board

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm67V13_Bag

The drum is controlled by a breaking system at the bottom of it. It is the agitator in the center that does most of the work during wash and rinse. The drum would spin very fast during spin cycle. Check if the solenoid for brake control is working. Check that the drive belt is not sagged. It should be tensioned correctly.

NP should be a No Power code. Check if any wire is burnt past the plug (dryer side). Sometimes the wire burns out at the element. Don't poke around inside with the power on.

lc is of Child Lock and can be set by squeezing the PRE-WASH(*CHILD LOCK) or TUB CLEAN(*CHILD LOCK) for 3 seconds At the point Child lock is set, To unlock Child Lock system, press the same button again.

possible drain hose blocked or bad pump