20 Most Recent Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

check heatmans blog on this problem http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

Hi tvstar...

You need to pull the front off to replace the belt.
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, loop it around the drum and as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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The noise may be coming from drum support rollers. As the rollers wear with age, they collect dirt, dust and lint and may need to be cleaned and lubricated. If the model number is correct, the rollers can be accessed by following these steps:


1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.

2. Remove the two screws that were under the lint screen and lift the top panel.

3. Unplug the door switch connector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.

4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.

5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. Release the belt tension, by pushing the idler pulley (tensioner) to the right (away from the belt) and lift the entire drum with the belt still remove.

The drum support rollers are located along the back wall (bulkhead) of the dryer.

6. Using a screwdriver pry the metal retaining clip off the LEFT roller support bracket. Then, remove the plastic triangular shaped tri-rings off each support shaft.

7. The rollers will slide off the support shaft. Clean any built up lint and debris that may have accumulated around the support shaft. If the rollers are still in good shape, reinstall.

8. Install the plastic tri-rings on both shaft, followed by the support bracket and metal retaining clip on the LEFT roller. Use a small nut driver and place it over the support bracket retaining clip and push on to the shaft to get it to seat properly.

9. Apply a small amount of oil on the each roller at the point where the support shaft inserts through the roller axle. NOTE: Lubricate with a light turbine oil (such as Singer or 3 in 1 brands) at the point where the roller axle meets the shaft. DO NOT get oil on the roller itself or it may cause the drum to slip.


10. Re-install the drum, making sure the rollers are seated properly in the groove around the perimeter in the rear. Make sure the belt is looped around the drum with the groove side facing the drum.

11. Have someone hold the drum in place while you re-install the belt over the tension pulley and motor. If working alone, kneel down so you can see the tensioner and motor and rest the drum front on your shoulder or knee.

With the belt removed, this may cause the idler pulley (tensioner) to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To re-install the belt the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum.

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.) NOTE: Clean the tensioner pulley wheel (if dirty), prior to reinstalling. Apply a small amount of oil where the pulley wheel meets the axle of the tensior. DO NOT get any oil on the surface area of the pulley wheel as this will also get oil on the drive belt. Oil on the drive belt can cause slippage on the drum.

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and push the wheel to the RIGHT while pulling the belt over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for WHIRLPOOL and refer to diagram H (This model Roper is manufactured by Whirlpool).

Replacement parts (if required) can be ordered on line at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

If the rollers require replacement, the part number for a replacement kit is 349241T. The kit includes BOTH rollers, the tri-rings and retaining clip for the support bracket. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also inlcude helpful exploded view diagrams that can help you locate and properly indentify the parts you may need. you can view a diagram of the belt and tensioner under the "Cabinet Parts" section. The belt is listed as item 56 and the tensioner is listed as item 53.

NOTE: If you still have the teflon glide type tensioner, Whirlpool recommends you replace it with a conventional roller type idler pulley. The teflon type tensioners caused premature wear to the drive belt. The part number for a replacement is 691366.


Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws.

NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them. If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you. NOTE: A secondary cause of the dryer noise is the rear drum seal becoming worn and requiring replacement. If this is the case, the seal comes as a kit, which includes a special heat resistant cement to glue the new seal in place. You will need to remove the drum and peel the old seal off. Clean the surface area real well. Spread a thin layer of cement on the glue surface of the drum and apply the drum seal. Allow to dry for a few minutes, then repeat, gradually working your way around the perimeter of the drum. DO NOT attempt to apply glue to the entire drum and then try to apply the seal. The glue dries too fast. Work in small sections until the seal is installed all the way around the perimeter. The part number for the replacement rear seal is 279857. DO NOT attempt to oil the drum seal.

The most common cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse, defective door switch, bad power cord, or a broken drum belt.

If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct, check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. You should read 220-240VAC at the wall receptacle and terminal block. If BOTH readings are good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad at the receptacle, you need to double check the power source that feeds the wall receptacle. Some homes use two separate 120VAC breakers instead of one 220-240VAC breaker. Make sure the breaker(s) is not tripped. If the reading is normal at the wall receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, replace your power cord.


If the problem is internal, the thermal fuse will be mounted on the blower fan housing. It is a small plastic looking component (usually white in color) with two wires attached to it. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad. The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower fan housing inside the dryer. On the model number you provided, the thermal fuse is accessed by removing the toe panel directly below the dryer door. The blower fan housing is located directly behind the panel, with the thermal fuse mounted on top (refer to parts drawing at the website(s) provided below.


NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. This could be an indication that you have a clog in the ventilation system, causing the dryer to overheat. Do a thorough inspection of your dryer interior and the entire exhaust vent from where it exits your dryer to where it exits your home, BEFORE replacing any defective parts. Failure to do so, may result in repeated failures of the same parts.


If the dryer belt is broken, the dryer may not run. Some models have a broken belt switch that will shut the dryer off when the belt breaks. This is determined by the model number.


Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it must be replaced.



Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need.


These solutions are not all inclusive, but are the more common failure items. The more expensive options are a defective timer or drive motor. If you have any questions about any of these repairs, need troubleshooting advice or need instructions on how to access any of these components, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you. NOTE; If the model number you listed is correct, all the heating circuits are located in the BACK of the dryer and can be accessed by removed the rear panel.

HI. here are a few steps to help with the testing of your timer. follow carefully.
Take a close look at the timer motor control. Depending on your make and model, there may be a number of wires connected to it. Locate the wires that deliver power to the mechanism. These wires should be slightly larger in size than the other ones. Use your needle-nose pliers to remove one of the power leads. Pull the connector off the terminal by pulling on the connector, NOT the wire, or it may break the wire.
Lift the dryers control panel up and set your units timer to a normal dry cycle. If your multimeter came with alligator clip probe adapters, this will be handy here, so put them on if you have them. If not, any meter(ohm) will do.
Set the multimeter to read ohms (usually labeled R1 or RX1). Clip or touch one probe to the terminal from which you removed the wire. Touch the other probe to one of the other terminals. You should get a reading of zero. If you get a high reading, then the timer motor is bad and it's time to replace it.

On mine I opened up the door and was on the top side housing on front panel.

HI. There are a few areas i would advise to check to resolve this issue.

The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.

Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.

A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation Assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exist.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

NOTE(If the Thermostats and fuse check out ok, replace the element. Element failure is uncommon but, it may fail in certain cases))

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi cassandra838...


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.

Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi tlashawn30...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

NOTE: For the model number you have listed this question under, your heating circuits are located behind the rear panel of the dryer. Simply remove the perimeter screws on the back of the dryer for easy access. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.


Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.


If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.


NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Best bet would be to drill & tap a new hole for a new screw.

Hi hfgrodecour

do the following checks...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi amajoria1
You may need to replace your timer because it may be the faulty problem.
I will send you some info on repairing a heater that gives no heat, a lot of the info will apply for this situation you have.
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me
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Yes. Putting on a new cord is simple. There is a plate covering the cord that is on there now. Remove the two or three philips screws holding it on. Get a new cord at an appliance store. Use a nut driver to detach the old cord. Hook up the new cord with the colored prongs in the same places as the old. The green will be the one that is missing. Replace the green screw so it is not lost. Be sure to install the cord protector so the sharp edge does not slice through your new cord. Good luck.

Usually the heating element starts to burn out just replace

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101