20 Most Recent Zanussi FJD1666W Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Machine spins but stops.. loading imbalance.. try with less load.. or drain pump and valve not working.. check for block..

communication error between main pcb and user interface.check blue loom (5 blue wires) from main board to user interface for bad connections.normally loose where they connect to the user interface (control panel buttons)

"E40 - error from the door locking mech (interlock).this is the bit behind the port hole door frame at approx 3 o clock pos, where the door striker pin goes through hole.

*Held on with 2 screws and remove plastic clamp from door gasket to gain access.
*Check the Door Switch/interlock or the WIRING for failure, if there is a problem, repair is necessary."


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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France @ 21:17 Sat evening,

I presume that you could turn the drum by hand? Also how old/used is it, please?
Can you hear a sound as if the motor is turning? If you can it could be that the belt has broken/come off. If you cannot hear it it could be that the motor is not working.
WITH THE POWER OFF-
have the back removed so that the belt (and motor) can then be seen easily.
If belt is OK then it is likely to be the motor especially if the machine is quite a few years old and well used. Often the motor brushes wear down to the extent that they do not run on the commutator and the motor stops- or, as in our case just before Xmas, becomes intermittent. Although it is possible to go the least costly way and have the brushes changed, it is false economy in the long run. The new brushes will not bed in correctly and will only last a fairly short time (I've heard of 1 month!). A replacement motor (ours cost £250- and I replaced the belt at the same time- both were 15-20 years old) should last for many years.

I hope this assists,

Cheers,

John C

test the machine empty without clothes in it, if all is well then i think your problem may be the motor carbons, take them off and check for damage, make sure one of them has not spit down the middle, also look at the armature for signs of sparking,a worn armature or carbons will work fine at slow speeds

you haven't mentioned the carbons, its trying to spin so may not be the pcb

Could be that the load is either a) too big or b) unbalanced. Try removing some items then set to spin again.

Alternatively it could be that the water is not pumping out. Check the hose from the machine to the drain. Check the filter / junk catcher. Check the hose between the drum and the pump.

I have also had machines that will wash but not spin because the carbon brushes for the motor were worn out. It is not a difficult or expensive job to change the brushes yourself.

Hello,

E20 is related to the pump and as you say a strange noise is there I would check the filter for foreign objects.E90 is normally a communication problem between the main programmer and the display module.There may have been a fault in the pump which has caused a fault at the Programmer.That model was first produced in 2002 but it is worth checking pump and filter first.If you find anything in filter then clean it out and give it another go the E90 error may have been a glich.Best of luck.

Hello,
E20 relates to a blockage in the pump check the filter and that the pump is free to turn there may also be aproblem on the drain pipe check this also

This is normally due to the door lock failing.
If you remove the clamp holding the door seal on the front.
Then peel the seal back and remove the 2 screws holding the door lock on.

You can change the lock from there and hopefully this will sort the problem out.
However if still doing the same after changing the lock then the control board will be faulty. But 9 times out of 10 for this fault its the door lock thats the problem

This is Mogsey above, I have now renewed the bearings in my Zanussi Jetsystem 1600, Model FJD1666W. Had a man in to help. It really is a two man job and I put my back doing this with him. The bearings were much larger than previously encountered. Very! basically you have get out the residue water, release the door seal and (pipe attached) spit the m/c casing, unclip all hoses attached to drum, unclip all drum wiring ,remove belt (note position) remove motor &, lay to one side, withdraw nylon pins from shock absorbers, Look for and remove the little earthing cable set just inside the pulley rim. Carefully release drum/case supporting springs (mark positions top and bottom) and, drop drum/case onto some blocks and lift/pull/take out (really needs two people) (minding other modules). Split drum/case ring of bolts, remove front half (careful here not to damage the heater). take half containing drum outside, lay drum face down and use a drift to hit the socket headed screw securing pulley hard to shake up the taper. Remove this screw (needs good quality allen key) and use wedges to the force off the drum drive pulley. Support drum casing on blocks or put drum on its side, support the drum if on its side and use a heavy drift and hammer to knock through the drum spindle. Careful now to avoid grating hands on the sharp drum holes. With drum now removed place the casing drive end up (ensuring protuding heater is clear of the ground!) put a large bolt (head down) inside the first bearing and rest it on the edge of the inner bearing. Carefully working round the inner bearing edge use a hammer and the bolt head as a drift to knock out the inner (the larger of the two bearings and inturn the drum seal) (note seal postion). Turn over the casing and knock out the outer bearing from inside the drum casing. Clean all and check condition of spider/spindle & renew if damaged. Fit the new outer bearing then the new inner followed by the seal. Dig out the old and renew the (green) O ring seal between the drum casing halves. Replace all, but give a quick test run before replacing casing to ensure belt is positioned correctly. The job would have cost £115 which I think is well worth paying someone to do.

You may have an issue with the electronic control board. Contact an appliance service company.

These get tight if not opened regularly. Get a large spanner or vice grips adn wrap in a towel to avoid cracking the filter. If you can unscrew it but cant remove it, there's something in there stopping it ie bra wire. The pump is removable from underneath (unplug first). A bit technical but very do able).

E10 means that there is a problem with water inlet. If the control board does not detect required water level after a certain time after opening inlet valve, then you will get F10.

Check that the inlet hose is not kinked and that there is pressure in there.

Try tripping the circuit breaker for ten minutes to reset the timer board.

If you still get E10, then you usually need to replace the triple inlet water valve connected to water hose. Usually the valve solenoid has gone.

The solenoid can be tested using a multimeter set at Rx1. If solenoid is good it will return about 4 KOhms, if not it will return infinity.

Regards.

G.

please contact the service authority because this is beyond your limit. to solve your problem, the back panel has to remove and only the service engineer knows the skill.......................sorry friend!