hi there first of all check your filter located at the front of the machine for blockages as this is a comon fault, failing that next time the dial clicks round count the amount of times the red light flashes before it does a pause then starts again, and let me know how many flashes it does as this corasponds to a fault code
Hello, jI
am trying to help you out here. Maybe this will help some? I am know on
Fixya as the cleanup expert pro. Which means I spend my own personal
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solved by the other fantastic great experts. I do this on my own for
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help. So, I thought I would take some of my own personal timeto
see if I can help you. Even though this Informational site may not have
your exact model or brand, But this site will help you a lot. Here is
the site link about everything you want to know aboutwashing machinesand possibly yours, fromrepairto trouble shooting it.http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-washing-machine.htmPlease
if this helped you at all, if you can find the time and in your heart
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The issue is with the control board that seems to be bad and
should be replaced however, for dryer issue you can also test continuity of
thermal fuse located inside the back of the unit. Getting the board replaced by
a professional will cost you around $250. Hope this helps...please post back
for further assistance.
most likely it is a wire that has pulled loose while it was going into its spin fucntion or its agitate seeing how it did work at first and then failed after an amount of time technicians these days are always in a rush to get to the next job. He should stay and watch the machine complete all the cycles after he is done repairing.if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick
p.s make sure there is no charge by his company for him returning to complete the job you have already paid for
Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Did you get a configuration code with new pcb if not this is the one for Mod.wjd 1667w ( 1FBCBO7A150789F2 ). You have to enter the diagnostics.
Press the START/PAUSE and SKIP/RESET together keep held then press the on/off button keep hold of the first 2 buttons until the LEDS begin to flash about 4 seconds.Now press FABRICS or TEMPERATURE buttons until LED lights the code relative to the first 16 digits of the configuration code is diplayed.
When SKIP/RESET button is pressed all the digits which make up the configuration are displayed in sequence.
Press the START/PAUSE button to modify the configuration code (digit by digit).
When all 16 digits have been entered, check that the code is correct, then memorize the code by pressing the START/PAUSE and SKIP/RESET at the same time, these buttons should be held down for at least 4 seconds .
For all Free appliance repair videos visit our VIDEO
TUTORIALS
Disconnect all power to the machine first!!
1Locate the
outer clamp band securing the seal to the door rim on the washing machine and
examine it carefully for holes or tears. Many can be prised off with a
flat-bladed screwdriver they have a spring system holding them, but some have a
tensioning arrangement that has to be loosened.
2After
removing the outer
clamp band, locate the inner one securing the seal to the drum and
establish how this is secured. It may be necessary to loosen a clip, or you may
be able to prise the band off with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Some are like
very large Jubilee clips that you have to undo usually from the top.
3Once the
clamp bands have been removed, use both hands to pull the seal away from the
inner drum rim. Some machines have a water spout holes that will have to be lined
up. Others have a drain holes.
4Rubbing a
drop of washing up liquid into the groove on the door
seal/gasket that locates on the drum makes fitting the new seal easier.
5the new washing
machine door seal should be fitted by locating the drain holes at the bottom
of the seal first then push it on with both hands working opposite directions
towards the top. This is quite hard if you have never done it before.
6 refit the
inner band remembering this must be tensioned correctly for it to be water
tight.
7 now fit the
outer band and the test the machine for any leaks,
All washing machine spares featured in this article are
available at apart4u with more video
help in our tutorial
section.
Information provided is a guide only. aPart4u accepts no liability for any
problems occurring whilst attempting any advice shown. If in any doubt about
fixing your appliance, always contact a qualified repairer.
1.Switch off the machine, unplug or disconnect the mains AC power to the machine and turn off the water supply to the machine. 2.Remove the filter access panel. 3.Remove the filter and make sure that the filter is not blocked and is clean and clear of all debris. Clean as required. Note that depending on the machine type you may get a lot of water coming out of the filter when you remove it if the machine has not drained successfully. Note that if the machine has stopped and not fully drained then you may be able to drain out the excess water by removing or disconnecting the waste hose and laying it on the ground in a tray. It may take a few minutes to empty but it will save a small flood. 4.Proceed by checking the drain hose for proper connection and kinks and make sure that it is not blocked. 5.Also check that the main waste drain pipe, if you use one, is not blocked and clean if required. 6.Reconnect the power and switch the machine on. If the problem persists then do the following. 7.Switch off the machine and disconnect the mains power. 8.Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure it is operational. 9.Remove the connecting hoses, and expect water to drain out and make sure the pipes are not blocked with debris or any object blockage. 10.Makes sure the pump appears clear and that the impeller looks in good condition. 11.Reconnect the hoses and then reconnect power and switch the machine on. 12. If problem has not been corrected, then remove the pump and check that the drive coupling to the motor is OK and that the motor turns OK. If all is well then replace the pump.
HI,
Can you hear the pump trying to drain it when you start a cycle? If not it needs a new pump.
Is there a block in the drainage pipe (blow down it and see if it bubbles in the filter compartment). Or a block in the drain - try pouring some water down in.
Otherwise, I had the same problem (an E20 but a clean filter, no blockage and working pump) and it turned out the condenser (a large plastic vessel) or the right side of the machie (you have to take the whole back off) was full of fluff. The engineer just used a wire hanger and ran it under water to clean it out.
If you've found that it hasn't been drying the clothes fully recently that could well be the problem.