20 Most Recent Little Giant 4,280-GPH Dual Discharge Pump Questions & Answers

Honestly I don't think so. If I remember the pump housing is ultrasonically sealed to prevent water entry and is not designed to permit opening for repair. But there is another way. If you can't replace the cord, cut off the bad section, leaving as much as you can that's still good; and wire it together with another waterproof extension cord through a water proof fountain repair cable kit. (Don't forget to use a water-resistant cable assembly or water will eventually migrate into the insulation, shorting the cable.) Here's one example. http://community.homedepot.com/howto/DiscussionDetail/Repair-Fountain-Cable-9065000000007sD By all means, this pond circuit MUST be protected by a GFCI. Water, electricity and a human body don't mix well.

impeller cavitating [air trapped] impeller damage --bearings --debris

Call the manufacturer.

No, The discharge check valve may be leaking and letting water drain back into tank. It is time buy a new one about $45.00

Hello Rob Gallau, Yes it shows thermal protection... but I have found the INSTRUCTIONS for your specific pump... http://littlegiant.com/media/153704/993949_2e-series_manual.pdf They only indicate how to clean the impeller... and SPECIFICALLY INSTRUCT the pump must be returned to LITTLE GIANT for any other repairs. Sorry

use a meter to test the float switch

Unplug and try freeing up the impeller by hand. You may have to remove bottom of pump to gain access.

nothing with those numbers, https://www.plumbingsupply.com/little-giant-pump-index.html

The vent pipe must be vented to an open air pipe.

new pump

Not sure about that, but you could have the tank welded, probably for much lees then replacing it.

Check for power at the outlet. Could also be the GFCI breaker tripped.

Its supposed to be controlled entirely by the float switch in the pit, etc. Its not uncommon for the pump to work or stay on even if the water level drops because the float can get hung up on the pipes, side walls, debris in the pit etc. You need to eliminate all those issues. Other issue is the float switch my be bad, hanging up or need resetting to the proper height etc. If its still a problem try replacing it with a water sensor switch instead.

Do you have a check valve in the pipe going out to wherever you are pumping,? If not the water from a long run will just keep recycling in the basement and the pump will run continuously. Is your pump running all the time? If so of course you will wear it out. Add a check valve if you dont have one. you can buy one at any hardware store. Just tell them the size of your discharge line.

Are you running these pumps full-time, even if they're dry? If you are, that's far beyond their design. The sink should drain into a sump or cistern, then the pump should empty the cistern on demand from a float switch. I don't know of any pump except possibly a bellows-type bilge pump, that can be expected to run full-time, even when dry.

I assume the RCD is an overload protection device. I would check the pressure side of your system and be sure it is clean. It sounds like it is building up back pressure. and overloading the pump motor.

The manual can be found at: http://www.gemplers.com/docs/manual/192177MANUAL.pdf It has a simplistic wireing diagram, hope thatg helps.

I would first start off by removing the float and seeing if it has water in it or a hole. If you don't find a hole or fluid in the float than I might suggest that you adjust the float switch activator on the float rod to a lower setting to see if the added pressure turns on the pump.If this method fails I would say that the points for the switch have become corroded and should be replaced.

First check the power, if you have power .. search for a electric motor repair shop with free testing to check the pump.

Hello, Most likely the pump just need to be cleaned out. Turn power off and clean out pump with soap and water.