Honda 86 87 88 89 Accord Alternator Lxi Sei - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

As far as I know this generator has not a manual activated valve opener. Therefor the exhaust valve may be stuck in the open position. Spray the valve stem/shaft at both side where it enters the casing with penetrating oil and leave for a while. (Hour or so). Try then to get the valve to move freely by moving the valve up and down. Use pliers but the jaws must be covered with a thick cloth as not to damage or scrape the valve stem. Ps. if the inlet valve moves but the outlet doesn't then the outlet is just stuck and need to be loosened.

will it blow any circuit? if so, the a/c has an electric problem. will the a/c run when plugged into a service power supply?

This generator will run an a/c unit up to 13500 btus and is good for 2800 watts. This is a small generator, the nameplate rating numbers need to jive before overloading the energy supply.

If the generator is an auto stop/start type for standby use, it would seem those solenoids are the reason why fuel isn't getting through. It would be a fairly sensible method of stopping the engine remotely. An auto start/stop generator would need a battery for starting purposes, a battery that would presumably also provide current to energise those solenoids and allow fuel to flow. I suggest you refer to the instruction manual in the first instance...

Was it ever electrically overloaded?

Try the tube that runs between the fuel tank and the carburetor. I have seen them crack since the tank is stationary and the engine is on rubber motor mounts. That line is in constant motion.

You have to pull the rear (muffler end) cover, rear muffler protector (the metal vent), the rear handle, the lower end plate, and the fiber muffler protector so you have access to the head cover. Remove the head cover, disconnecting the breather tube as you do it. Turn the engine (using pull handle) to top dead center compression (both valves fully closed). Use feeler gauge to check the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem. Intake should be .15mm +/- .02mm (.006in +/- .001) Exhaust should be .20mm +/- .02mm (.008in +/- .001) Adjust as needed by loosening the rocker arm pivot locking nut and adjusting the rocker arm pivot. Tighten the locking nut once set. Put it all back together. :)

Flooding carb perhaps or maybe lots of short duration runs that never allowed it to become thoroughly hot.

Disconnect the auto choke assembly and hook up some sort of mechanism to manually open and/or close the choke. Spring load the choke so that the default position is fully open.

Honda Shop Manuals and Service Support Materials Honda Power Equipment You can purchase a service manual with information from this site.

Harry, What parts do you need?

Alfred, Try checking the float 1st. Much like it is done in this video (different generator but same princible.): :)

is this a car or a generator. we are talking about? if its a generator then goto this link might help you out. https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=Repair+manual+Honda+EU10i

most likely a governor problem check for broken governor control spring on the arm/lever

on the governor control back to the carby , there is a screw that adjusts the spring tension for the governor arm that screw is the adjustment for engine operating rpm not the idle screw

from your description and what you do , the problem is in the auto control unit it will be in the system to reduce the rpm to idle when there is no load ( auto mains on off controller switching between genset and mains supply) by turning the auto operation off you are committing the gen set to full rpms regardless of the power requirement you have the option of having it fixed at an gen set repair shop or leaving it off and starting the genset only when you have a mains power outage check with an electrician to ensure that it is possible to run it that way as if the mains power unit is not correct , when you start it and you still have mains power , it will destroy the gen set

http://www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice If you run the test on this page it will tell you what is going wrong. :)

Depends on the wattage of the individual bulbs. Add up total bulb wattage of bulbs and make sure that it does not exceed the capacity of your generator.

Dear Sir/Madam, To dismantle the Alternator: End Plate and Windings: 1. Remove the End cover and note (or better take a picture) of the wiring layout. 2. Undo the engine mounts from the frame and raise the alternator with a block of wood so the mounting studs are free. 3. Undo all wiring and remove the brushes. 4. Undo the 4 outer bolts holding the alternator together. 5. Using a second piece of wood and a hammer, hit the inside of the outer casing where the 4 bolts were attached. Hit opposites (a bit like on a car fitting a car tyre) until the end casing comes free. DO NOT SPRAY OIL DURING THIS PROCESS AS MAY HARM THE ALTERNATOR WHEN NEXT FIRED UP. The windings should also drop off during this process, slide off and place carefully in a safe place. To Remove the Rotor: Only do this if you require the Rotor off the Generator! Due to the design the rotor gets tightened onto the crankshaft with the turning of the engine, so they can get stuck pretty solid! There are a few ways to remove the Rotor (Armature). Below we have found a video that will assist you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2OUolBIgkE If that doesn't work, try this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsNJLd7j0Yk

It sounds like your fuel mixture is too lean, closing choke is richening the mixture, by closing off air