Honda 86 87 88 89 Accord Alternator Lxi Sei - Page 10 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What are you pluging into the generator??? If the the item/s are drawing more amps or watts, than the 6500 will handel, EX: 6500+or++ or if you add something while it is running, ka pow! Please let me know specifically what you have pluged into it, the fuse only blows if you are overloading it! Check the amp or watt draw of what you are pluging into it to see if the generator can handle it. If you overload the generator enought times you can burn the windings and than it gets costly. Talk to your local shop about what it can handle.

Hi,
Have you removed the gas hose at the carb and checked for gas flow to the carb...if you have gas then the carb is the problem...

Get this stuff at Walmart or Home Depot and follow the directions on the bottle...it will get you running...

If no gas is at the carb, then go backwards to the tank till you find what is stopping the flow of gas...fix that and then retry...

heatman101

The low oil level sensor may very will be causing the problem. Make sure it is fully serviced with oil and then see if it still keeps sutting down at random. If this resolves the problem great. If the problem persists try disconnecting ONE wire from the low oil level sensor. If it still keeps shutting down load or no load remove the fuel float bowl from the bottom of the carb and check for debris. Check fuel flow float bowl removed. It should fill a spray paint can lid in 8 to 10 seconds to the point your worried about over-flow. If you can not get this rate of fuel flow... check the fuel filter, sediment bowl under the fuel selector and the fuel tank exit port. Then clean up the float bowl / bowl nut (or solenoid) and reinstall it.
Still have the problem... start looking at the wire to the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb (if used) and the ignition wire to the stop run switch for any signs of chaffing all the way from the start runn switch to as far as you can follow it on the engine without disassembly.

I would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi,
Any good quality 10w-30 motor oil will work just fine...

heatman101

If the engine runs good at first then its likely OK . However a big problem with generators and snowblowers is that you use them when you need them other wise they sit in the garage . The gas will go bad after about 6 month or so this will create sediment in the tank cloging filters gum up carbuators and make neddle valves stick and so on . Check were the fuel line comes from the bottom of the tank there is usely a vary fine mesh filter in the bottom of the tank the viberation from the engine runing consentrats the sediment in the tank and makes the filter clog after a few munites . You may have to remove the fuel tank to do this but the filter dosn't need to be replaced just clean it and the tank out . And always drain the tank at the end of the year and drop the float blow to get all fuel out of the system then spray with WD 40 .And the next time you need it you just put gas in it and it will run perfictly

Hi and thanks for choosing FixYa. I am Kelly.

Stand by for the shock treatment. Here is the manual link for the inverter:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Generator/0/EU3000IS%20AC%20GENERATOR%2C%20JPN%2C%20VIN%23%20EZGF-1080001/INVERTER/parts.html

They are NOT cheap.

Kelly

I can help you but need to know you exact Brand Name and Model Number. If you can find the Egine model number I would like that also so that I can provide you with any service manual data available. I will help you and respond when you respond to include the data requested above. (Please.)

Thanks,
Kelly

If the low oil switch fails, you have to jump the switch for the engine to operate. I have a compressor with that problem. Then either you watch the oil level carefully or install a new switch, which, in my case, requires disassembly of the crankcase.

Gary

It's either not getting enough fuel, or the govenor is not working. When the engine is running, watch the throttle linkage between the carburetor and engine, looks like a bent wire. When you throw a load on it, it should move to give the engine more power, if it dont, try moving it by hand.
If that appears to be working ok, check the fuel line from the tank to the carb for good gas flow.
You can also remove the float bowl on the bottom of the carb, it's a round bowl on the bottom of the carb with a bolt in the middle of it...clean it out and check the float. The float looks like a little catamaran, make sure it is moving freely up and down. That is about all you can do without removing and cleaning the jets in the carb.

Good luck, & i hope this helps.

Check lines for cracks and if cracked replace and also check filter

Suggest you add either Heat fuel restorer (watch the amount you add) or almost pure alcohol to the fuel to get rid of any water in your system. Make sure the fuel filter is not blocked. Then pull the spark plug and spray one 1-2 second spray of WD-40 into the spark plug hole. Turn over 1-2 times, replace the spark plug - then try to start.

This has worked on my generators for years, and hope it works for you. But take a close look at all your hoses because even a small tear will give you problems.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

If the generator has sat for some time the fuel in the float bowl will turn into a varnish like substance (shellac). The residual fuel in the carb will have to be removed. You do this by removing the fuel solenoid (or bowl nut) which ever one youhave that secures the float bowl to the carb. Then take a screw driver and remove the main fuel orifice and remove the debris from the main fuel orifice. Clean the orifice with carb cleaner. DO NOT push anything into the hole! Also spray the brass tube that the main fuel jet screws into with carb cleaner. You should see carb cleaner being sprayed into the throat of the carb.

While the fuel float bowl is removed get a spray can lid and hold it under the carb float. Turn on the fuel selector and the fuel should completely fill the spray can lid in 8 - 10 seconds. If you do not have this amount of fuel flow you need to remove the main fuel line from the carb and re-check fuel flow. If the flow is good here then use carb cleaner in the float needle area to force any debris back out the fuel manufold connection that is now open because you removed the fuel line. If you still do not have fuel flow then check for debris in the fuel tank exit port, the fuel filter, the sediment bowl under the fuel shut off assembly.
Once again with the spray can lid under the float you should have fuel flow anytime the fuel selector is on and the float level is down. It should shut off fuel just as it reaches level. Any other result and the float and float needle will have to be removed, cleaned and inspected for debris.

Make sure to re-install the main fuel orifice in the treaded area that secures the float bowl in place and.re-connect the main fuel line to the fuel manifold / carb fuel inlet connection

If the engine has a fuel solenoid hook it up and and see of it is working as you turn the key / engine switch on and off before you reinstall the float bowl. You make have to hold the case of the solenoid against the engine to make a ground AWAY from any residual fuel for testing. I.e. don't burn up your generator.
Re-install the fuel float bowl and test the engine. It should now work just fine.
The above steps are successful most of the time on generatosr that have sat idle for an extended period. I have been working on generators large and small for over 40 years.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If you have spark and you add a splash of to the throat of the cab does it fire briefly?
If the generator has sat for some time the fuel in the float bowl will turn into a varnish like substance (shellac). The residual fuel in the carb will have to be removed. You do this by removing the fuel solenoid (or bowl nut) which ever one youhave that secures the float bowl to the carb. Then take a screw driver and remove the main fuel orifice and remove the debris from the main fuel orifice. Clean the orifice with carb cleaner. DO NOT push anything into the hole! Also spray the brass tube that the main fuel jet screws into with carb cleaner. You should see carb cleaner being sprayed into the throat of the carb.

While the fuel float bowl is removed get a spray can lid and hold it under the carb float. Turn on the fuel selector and the fuel should completely fill the spray can lid in 8 - 10 seconds. If you do not have this amount of fuel flow you need to remove the main fuel line from the carb and re-check fuel flow. If the flow is good here then use carb cleaner in the float needle area to force any debris back out the fuel manufold connection that is now open because you removed the fuel line. If you still do not have fuel flow then check for debris in the fuel tank exit port, the fuel filter, the sediment bowl under the fuel shut off assembly.

Make sure to re-install the main fuel orifice in the treaded area that secures the float bowl in place. .

One more thing to do... just in cause you have a valve that is sticking is to add a few oz of fuel to the spark plug hole and leave the spark plug out. Use the recoil with the ignition switch off and pull the recoil to spin the engine as fast as you can to get rid of the fuel you just added.

If the engine has a fuel solenoid hook it up and and see of it is working as you turn the key / engine switch on and off before you reinstall the float bowl. You make have to hold the case of the solenoid against the engine to make a ground AWAY from any residual fuel for testing. I.e. don't burn up your generator.

The above steps are successful most of the time on generatosr that have sat idle for an extended period. I have been working on generators large and small for over 40 years.

If none of the above steps work; I need your engine model number so I can look up carb data.
GX 340 or GX 370 is not what I need... I need the number that is on the base of the engine usually stamped horizontally on the cran case base near the oil filler port or oil level sensor depending on engine orientation.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly

I would suggest adding an external gfi as part of an extension cord connection box. Would most likely be safer and easy to maintain. Generator parts are very expensive if available at all. Ground the generator as described in the manual. Good luck with your project.

Yes the GCU controls the engine. if it fails you won't get spark. A GCU cost $500 and probably takes and hour to replace. $675 to diagnose the problem and replace the GCU seems reasonable. the GCU is a sensitive electronic component and I would guess there are lots of reasons it could fail. Blaming it on overloading is a bit simplistic. If they replace the GCU and that doesn't solve the problem then you have a right to complain. There are other cheaper components that could be at issue like; temperature sensor, coil, pulse generator. I would assume they checked all those before determining it was the GCU.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly a 1955 model life long electrician.
I don't remember where the capacitor is on this unit. I think it is in the control panel area. I am pretty sure the capacitor is breaking down. It will be either a 25 uF or 31.5 uF capacitor. Look for what appears to be candle wax dirpping out of it or... any signs of swelling. I have had this happen on my own generator 2 times over 10 years. I finally bought oil filled capacitors and the wax leak / eventual failure . overloading problems are gone. Have your capacitor checked. Test across the leads for resistance at R x 1000 and watch that resistance drifts to infinity. Reverse the leads and watch for the same resistance and drift to infinity. Inspect the capacitor wires as far as you can inspect them. Usually there is a disconnect terminal before the stator winding. The connectors somtimes get hot and start cooking off the connectors. Many times I have had to simply cut out the connectors, solder the wires together and cover them with heat shrinkable tubing. The same goes for stator winding wires but not that often. Most of the time it is the capacitor field wires that have problems.

Is this an EU3000, EU3000-I, or EU3000-IS model?

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

It needs a new switch

This can be due to failure of the HT coil. So check the start up voltage wehn cranked to confirm the trigger pulse to the HT and the ouput high voltage from the HT coil. Also If the OIL was not changed and is clogged it will short the IGNITION through the OIL SWITCH . So try by removing the line to the oil switch to confirm this fault.
Remove the plug and check on the outside til the fault is confirmed so as not to FLOOD THE CYLINDER with fuel as there is no spark. Flush out before the plug is set back with the correct gap.

Change spark-plug and take bowl off carberator and spray with B-12 carb. cleaner.

Check all fuses and circuit breakers.