20 Most Recent Nikon N65 35mm SLR Camera - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Is it a power wind, or manual? Please clarify.

can you give me the specific model of the camera also how long have you owned it. First thing is to make sure there is no lens cap. A lot of times when all you get is a black picture it is a sign of a failed imaging sensor/CCD. This can be an expensive fix. If that is the case you would want to contact the manufacturer and/or some independent repair facilities and get estimates as to the cost of the repair. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Thank you,
Lee

Apparently you have a Nikon FM, serial number 2523207. You can check it against the manual available at
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_fm/nikon_fm.htm

google it

If the red light is steady on the minus sign even if you vary shutter and aperture settings and point the camera at different light exposures, then this is a metering problem. If the red light on the minus sign turns off when you have correct or over exposure, then it would mean your indicator lights for o and + are busted. Have your metering checked by a competent camera technician. In any case, since your camera is fully manual, you can use the 'sunny 16' rule and still shoot away.

http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_f5/nikon_f5.htm

The Nikon F2 for me is the best mechanical film camera ever produced. The only electrical or battery- dependent part is its metering. Meaning to say, even without batteries, the F2 should work and take pictures on all shutter speeds. Most probably, the F2 that you bought has a non-working photomic meter finder due to a defective ring resistor, a part that is usually the first thing that would fail on this camera. What, then, are your options? One, have the meter fixed by a competent manual camera technician. Two, buy a working Photomic finder and replace what you have. Three, buy or use a handheld meter. Four (the least expensive), use the sunny 16 rule. As added reference, here's a link that might help enlighten you more about how the F2 metering works: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/prisms/dp11/index.htm

Cameras are a "use it or lose it" device, especially old ones like your N65.

It's most likely that the internal lubricant films have dried out and gummed up due to lack of use. On older mechanically operated models it's sometimes possible to free things off by leaving the camera in a very warm place for a good few hours and then gently forcing the controls against the softened grease or even by banging the camera against a firm surface. You have almost none of those options on the N65: it's an autofocus model with electronic controls, and the all plastic construction won't stand up to abuse. The only thing you can try is to leave it in a warm place and then try turning it on.

Camera servicing could solve the problem, but your camera is a consumer grade model designed for a five to six year maximum lifespan and was never intended to be serviced. The cost of servicing far exceeds the residual value of your N65 body (just a few dollars).

If you cannot get your camera working then it's time to bid it farewell. The good news is that the worthlessness of many 35mm SLR bodies (and many lenses) makes them easy to obtain for free/cheap. I've had dozens of them over the last few years from friends, neighbours and relatives just by asking and most of them have come from total strangers via my local FreeCycle and Freegle groups. On one day alone last year I picked up a boxed and virtually unused F75 (N75 in USA) with the 28-100mm kit lens and a freshly serviced Nikon N8008 with a Sigma 24mm AF and a Nikkor 300mm. Everything worked perfectly once i replaced the batteries. A week later I collected an Olympus OM1n kit for free and was offered an Olympus Pen FT plus lenses for just £10 (worth well over £200). None of this is intended as a boast, it's just to illustrate that you can get superb and possibly upgrade quality replacements for just the cost of fuel mileage and a set of batteries.

Good luck, I hope you manage to use this information to fix your camera, or at least are able to use the information to help decide whether to replace it with another.

The battery compartment is inside the mirror box, on the lower side. To change the battery, remove the lens, lock up the mirror, then push the lid to the left and lift it up.

You can download a copy of the manual from
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikkormat_el/nikkormat_el.htm

You can download a copy of the manual from
http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_n2020af/nikon_n2020af.htm
and print it out yourself. It's a scan of the original paper manual so it's not as crisp as a pure digital manual would be, but considering the age of the camera...

You can download the manual from
http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/16910/session/L2F2LzEvdGltZS8xMjk0ODU5OTY2L3NpZC9KOUVNX1Vqaw%3D%3D

If that link doesn't work, try
http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13948

Try putting it the other end first, it needs go in with the contacts in first.

Hello,
You did not mention the version of the camera..I looked just the body for you..
Anyway,if it is a Nikon FM2/T FM-2 TITAN version it is about 700 USD
OR if it is a Nikon FM2/T Dog Edition is is 2500-3000 USD..
Please visit the eBay web site to find more on these cameras.
www.ebay.com
Regards and good luck..

Here it is in PDF format

Having gone over a month with no response, I assume this is no longer a problem.

Unscrew the rewind knob and remove a circlip under it (You may need to grind the tips of a pair of round-nose pliers for this). Remove the disk and pull the rewind shaft stop off the hub (a spring and flat plate). Remove the two screws. You'll need a special tool to remove the little stud the shaft stop was pivoting on. Take a 1/8 inch screwdriver and grind a slot in the blade. Use this tool to remove the stud, then remove the three screws from the plastic cover ring.

Do not remove the center screw from the shutter speed dial. Remove three screws from the side of the dial and pull off the grip ring. 

Chances are that either the switch has broken or the AE-L lever is slightly broken or sprung. Most likely, the camera will have to be disassembled to fix this, and possibly require parts. The following link will provide you with a manual:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_6006-6000_flash/nikon_6006_flash.htm
Hopefully, the manual will provide you with an alternate procedure to try to rewind the film, although I'm unaware of any.
Good luck, and hope this helps.

It's probably just dirt, swet and stuff from years of use and can be removed simply by wiping with a damp cloth and some dish washing liquid.

Usually the automatic rewind starts when the film roll has come to the end. You can rewind also before that by a rewinding button you'll find usually somewhere in the camera body.

To rewind manually, press the film release button (consult the manual if you don't find it) and use the rewinding lever to rewind the film. See this for inspiration: http://www.ehow.com/how_2028878_film-mm-manual-slr-camera.html

1) Clean the battery contacts and put fresh battery.
2) Open the top cover and clean the meter switch ( located and the wind cam )
3) Meter needle maybe stuck at the rest position. Remove the stopper and replace or clean.
4) If none of these help, check the meter cells and resistor band under the shutter dial behind the lens mount ( hard to do.)