20 Most Recent Tappan TGF320 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Tamppan Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F0 & F1 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace Electronic Oven Control F2 Oven too hot Check Bake function, if OK, replace oven temperature sensor F3 Oven temperature sensor open Check oven temperature sensor, should be ~1100 ohms at room temperature. If too high or low, replace oven temperature sensor F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F5, 6, 7 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace Electronic Oven Control F8 Lock switches Check switches and replace if necessary

Generally it lifts from the front upward, while being somewhat hinged at the back of the range. This is not really a snap connection but rather it generally will only sit there kind loose.

Marguerita , In addition to turning off the gas valve going to the stove, FIRST, unplug the stove from the electric outlet, so the high voltage ignitor (spark) will not be constantly operating and elminate the possibility of getting a serious jolt/shock.

Just follow Jumptrout's well described troubleshooting and repair instructions, but please uplug the range first and go one wire at a time, cleaning them and retrying them, or better yet, just clean them all; removing them one at a time, cleaning one, and putting it back in place until you've cleaned and reconnected them all.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Does it still display the cooking function?

Hello,

99% of the time on this model the igniter is bad, you can test this and I can help if you have a amp meter, let me know,

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

Assuming the gas supply is ok....

Do any of the burners work?

See the link below for further information. Make sure you select the correct model number for your appliance. Then choose the section of the range addressing the burner problem. You may have a bad spark module, a loose connection, a wiring issue or a power problem.

You can also check the gas regulator, although this is not as likely to be the cause.

http://www.apwagner.com/index.php?main_page=model_lookup&keyword=TGF320

First try to unplug it and give it 5 minutes and then plug it back in. If that doesn't work then you'll need to check the wiring with it unpluged. If there is nothing obvious then you'll have to replace the main board..... also knows as a ERC or Electronic Clock Timer
Number:
316222802
Substitution: 316455410

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description, I`d suggest the hot surface ignitor for the bake burner is likely the problem, the valve is very unlikely.

Here's what you can try to verify if it's indeed the ignitor and not the valve...if you're mechanically inclined.


The hot surface ignitor you'll be looking for will look like this...in the event you didn't know.




** FIRST unplug the range and turn off the gas to the appliance before attempting any service...safety first**

If your boiler has the same ignitor ( some do some don't ) one could swap the ignitor`s ( very carefully, they are very fragile and don`t like to be handled ) this will allow you to use the bake burner, but it will leave you without the broil function...until you can purchase another.

This will confirm or dismiss if the ignitor is at fault...99% of the time this is the case.

You can also ohm it out to test it as follows...


You should be able to find one at most brick & mortar appliance parts vendors or on-line depot's such as "repairclinic.com", "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple.

You can ask for part number based on the model number for the bake & broil ignitor.

I would still double check with your model number with the part`s professional`s.

Hope that help`s. Let me know if I can assist you further and good luck.

Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair needs.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi, Well it sounds like the igniter on your bake element is not working. For your burner to light an igniter has to activate to turn the gas on. It is a glow plug style igniter which needs to get to a certain temp to open the gas valve. If it is bad it will not get to temp it needs to be changed. If it is glowing bright orange and the gas valve isnt opening then the solenoid on the gas valve is sticking and the gas valve will need to be changed. I hope this answered your question and helps.

there is a solution undeer Tappan 110 gas ranges


http://www.fixya.com/support/t1918474-tappan_series_110_gas_range

Takes about 15 minutes to fix. You will need a philips head screwdriver, pair of scissors and a butter knife. What you're going to do is cut the wire to the beeper. Your clock will still function.

Start by removing the glass faceplate that encloses your clock. By removing the 2 screws on either side of the metal housing, you can remove the faceplate (you'll have to remove the clock's pushbuttons, but that isn't hard, either. I used some spring-loaded pliers to get a good purchase, then pulled straight back. Oh yeah. You need pliers, too. Don't worry, you won't break the buttons; they'll snap out and push back in, later). Use the butter-knife to carefully work the glass out of the metal frame. The actual clock is secured by a couple more screws, which are easily removed, once you've removed the abovementioned faceplate.
[The clock, btw, is made by Fridgidaire (part # AP2125434 ), in case you want to replace it. Costs more than $130(!)]
If you haven't already unplugged the stove, now is a good time. Do not touch the two metal connectors of the two most prominent wires on the back of the clock, when the unit is plugged in! Yes, it's the voice of experience, talking...
You will notice, when you're looking at the back of the clock unit, a small metal disc, enclosed in plastic. If you plug in the stove, and listen, you should hear the beeping coming from this area. There is a medium-sized hole in the middle of the plastic housing, allowing access to the metal disc. There are two very small wires, red and black, leading into the housing and attached to the disc in two places. One wire is attached to essentially the center part of the disc. The other wire (in my case, the black wire) is attached rather toward the outer edge of the metal disc. The outer edge is even a slightly different color, so you can identify the two parts. In my case, the sound was emitting from the outer edge, as opposed to the center portion of the disc. If you press a Q-tip against the center portion of the disc (thru the hole in the plastic housing), and the beeping continues, unchanged, the sound is probably coming from the outer edge. You can check by bending the Q-tip, and working the tip over to the edge of the metal disc--by applying pressure, you should hear the sound change, slightly.
Unplug the unit, and cut the wire that corresponds to the part of the disc the sound is coming from--that should solve the problem!

Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

go to your homes power panel and find the circuit breaker or fuse controlling this circuit and shut off the breaker or pull the fuse,this will power down the unit

you need to change the clock assy. the part number is 316455410 and it's around 65 bucks,that isn't the full model number so when you order it give the parts store the full number and you need the overlay,this number is for a black overlay 316220705 and that's around 20 bucks.let me know how you make out and if this was helpful,good luck

put a new igniter on before you blow the house up

Thermostat needs replacing if it can be got.

Hello there:
These ovens have a internal reset device that needs to be reset
To reset it unplug the power cord from the wall then you will have to wait for 1 hour and after the hour is over plug it back in and you may hear a click within about 5 min and sometimes right away. if so press the cancel and now you will be able to open the door and resume normal use

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101


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