20 Most Recent Toro Ccr Snowblower Questions & Answers

Next step would be to check the ignition module(coil),I have a lawnmower that uses the same 2 cycle engine. Check coil for spark by removing the spark plug from the block then connect the insulator side of the sparkplug back to the coil then ground the plug by touching the threaded side to the block away from the sparkplug hole while turning the engine over. Should see a spark, if not you'll need a new coil,not hard to replace. calls for Briggs & Stratton #80-1268 you can also use a Toro/Lawnboy coil #99-2911 or #99-2916 or #684049.

We have no parts here. I suggest you contact a local dealer parts dept for the product.

most primer bulbs are held in place by a metal ring plate with either 2 or 4 screws remove the plate and the bulb will fall out make sure that the molded edge of the new bulb is correctly fitted into the groove in the body and refit the plate and screws

.035-.040"

OPEN THE CARBURATOR BOX, CHECK 2 C THE GAS INJECTING IN.

My blower runs fine and has no problem all I do is keep it nice and clean after use and oil the running parts after the season when I dont use it I am very happy with it.

Is there a breaking system that was left on?

ck the belt aj

!!!!!! dran the gas put in the neww mix gas and pray for the best

Question edited for clarity. When you put it away at the end of last snow season, I expect you just rolled it to the corner of the garage and left it until now? The two stroke gas in the carburetor, went bad and gummy. It starts on starter fluid because no gas is coming from the carb. https://www.google.com/search?q=toro+ccr+2450+carburetor+cleaning ..

See if the videos help. https://www.google.com/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+engine+model+252416+0757+01.install+the+spring+260695+for+the+governor+lever ..

did you make sure it has spark. i have learned over the years because an electronic is new doesn't mean its good? If it has spark remove the plug and put a bit of gas in the hole and re install plug see if it will fire on that gas. if it does its the carb something is probably blocking fuel. check the compression if its low compression it will not run. if u dont have a compression checker just remove the plug stick your finger tight over the plug hole and pull it over it should blow your finger off the hole.

Yes, decompression lowers cylinder pressure during low rpm while cranking. If you're concerned with compression, you need to do a leakdown test. Inexpensive (~$30) units are available through numerous eVendors. The leakdown test provides a metered volume of air that is translated and displayed on a pressure gauge simply labeled high (excessive leakage), moderate, or low (nominal leakage).

It's an L-head engine and once they get a few hundred hours run time, the valves wear into the hard seat, lash goes to zero, and they become hard to start. You can check valve lash by removing the crankcase breather (two screws). If lash is near zero, time for a valve job. Plenty of how to videos on the web. If it's easy start, just low power then less likely a valve lash issue.

There are many things that cause low power. Bad fuel, water in fuel (fuel bowl), fouled carburetor, poor spark, fouled plug, improper plug gap, wrong plug, weak ignition module.

If you have no forward, no reverse but the motor is still running normally the most likely reason for this is the main drive belt. This connects the motor to the transmission. If it stretches, breaks or drops off the drive pulleys you will lose all movement.