Gcv160 Gas Engine - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

generally the gap is 0.015" thou. hand rotate after setting to ensure nothing is rubbing.

Use wd 40 https://www.wd40.com/

I got this free Pdf manual from reliable-store for free and I don't think Ive visited a mechanic or fixya for help for more than 3-4 times out of all the times I fixed the chipper in these 4 years

When you buy spark pulg for most car or motor bic they are pery gap you do not need to do any thing .

Have you done a compression test on the engine? Since you have done so much with the carb, I would think the underlying problem is elsewhere. Possibly a cracked cylinder or head; maybe a head gasket. The magneto (problem) would not cause a fuel leak. I would also be concerned by the fact you say fuel is getting into the oil. I would think the petrol is mixing with the oil (even when it is running "normal"), which is causing additional damage to the parts of the engine that are lubricated by the oil. The longer you run the engine the more diluted the oil is becoming, which is causing oil starvation, and causing excessive wear on the bearings, crankshaft, rods - the whole bottom end of the engine. At this point, I would stop putting time and money into this machine. Buy a new one and save your sanity before it is all gone. I cannot say I've seen many push lawnmowers older than 10 - 15 years that run reliably. Yes, some run, but usually they act up and take extra work to start or keep running. They wear out mechanically. The only small engines, I see, that are really old are snowblowers or high end lawn tractors. The point is, you probably have many hundreds of hours on this engine. I would consider it worn out; end of life.

Hi Julie: It sounds like the problem may be with the fuel that you are using. Make sure the tank is drained, rinsed, all stale fuel and contaminates removed, and fresh fuel used. If you're going to be leaving the mower for extended periods between use, it's a good idea to fill the fuel tank with premium fuel. I always fill the tank after mowing to minimize evaporation and condensation. Hope this helps.

I found a break down of the carby and I am wondering if the needle has been correctly assembled back to the float tang there should be a small spring that attaches the needle to the float with a smaller in in the end of the needle that is coil spring loaded This set is to provide a manual release of the needle of the seat when the fuel level falls and so prevents sticking and the coil spring arrangement is to prevent the needle allowing fuel in from the ripples in the fuel as it vibrates Yes you bought a new carby and it ran well However there may have been a hair in the fuel and that caused a problem that you sought to fix by taking it to a garage rather that a mower repair shop garage mechanics seldom have an intimate knowledge of small engines and so reassembly of the carby may miss setting the needle to the float correctly As to fuel gums etc , I would discount that as it is not old enough and left sitting long enough for that to occur fuel left for long periods (6 months or more ) does deteriorate but an fuel stabilizer additive ( from any auto spares shop) will overcome that problem My suggestion is that you fit an inline fuel filter to the tank hose and have the carby inspected by a honda small engine ( mower shop) to ensure that it is as was originally purchased

A manual choke utilizes a lever and cable assembly to open and close the choke plate. If your mower has the manual set up check the adjustment by pushing the lever to the stop in one direction. The choke plate should be either all the way open or all the way closed. If not check the cable hold down clamp, there is a retaining screw that holds a small clamp over the cable to hold the cable housing in place. Now if the choke is not adjusted properly then watch to see which way is not going full motion.Then loosen the retaining screw and slide the housing one way or the other to achieve either full open or full close and retighten the retaining screw. Now remove the spark plug and look at the electrode end and see what color the porcelain is, if it is black then it needs to be replaced or cleaned. If it is white then there is not enough fuel and the engine requires more choke to draw more fuel when the engine is cold, remember that after the engine starts and warms up to open the choke so it does not flood the engine - you will see black exhaust qnd the engine will not run smooth, Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/darryl_24e8d8d43e609e3c

Hi Julie,your bowl has a rubber gasket on it to keep from leaking,when you remove bowl,float should go all the way down,push up and down with your hand,reinstall bowl,remove your gas tank and clean with fresh new gas,install new spark plug and install new air filter,use regular gas.

Hi Julie, I'm very happy you finally got your mower going. Thank you for letting me know. You say it may be running a little hot. Are you using a multi-grade oil, like 10-30wt. or anything like that? Most mowers use a straight 30 wt. motor oil. If you are using anything thinner or lighter than that, it can cause the mower to get hot and will eventually cause it to seize up on you again. If the oil is too thin, the viscosity will break down faster and won't lubricate the moving parts as well. If you ever have any type of problem around the house with just about anything, I'd be happy to try and help you out. I've worked in construction for the past 30 years, went to school to be a mechanic and have even worked as a free climber trimming trees. So, even if I don't know the answer, we can figure it out together. My email address is: [email protected] It's been my pleasure trying to help you figure out your mower. Now, I'm ready for the next challege. Take care and have fun mower your jungle. LOL! Sincerely, Bill

It sounds like the engine may have seized. If you have the plug removed, try to turn the blade itself. If it doesn't move then it makes a seized engine more plausible.

follow the line to the engine brake to see if the brake is being released when you squeeze the handle.

Hi Julie, There's a penetrating catalyst (oil) called "BLASTER". Anything that may be causing the engine to freeze up, that can be desolved, broken loose or washed away... This stuff will get it done. You can get it at any auto parts store. Try that in the cylinder. Also, Try back tracking what you've done. If the engine began acting frozen after you installed the carb, take the carb back off and see if the engine will turn over without it. If for some reason air doesn't flow through the carb, the engine will appear to be frozen and won't allow the exhaust valve open to complete the cycle. Let me know what happens. I'm interested to find out. Have a good morning, Bill

I'm not sure I understand, but if you put oil in the cylinder and reinstalled the spark plug with it still in there...That's why your engine acts like it's frozen up. If that's the case, remove the spark plug and pull the start rope until the oil stops coming out when you pull it. You might want to even spray some carb cleaner in the spark plug hole, let it set for a couple of minutes and pull the rope until nothing comes out the spark plug hole. Also, with the plug removed, tip the mower and see if you an turn the blade. If you can, the engine is not frozen. You may need to clean the oil off the spark plug as well. Good luck! I hope I helped some, Bill

if the brake cable does not disengage the brake all the way the pull cord will not work properly.It will seem stuck.

fuel is not getting to carb or float is stuck

Yes this is your timing belt could have caused major problems like bend valves and what not

floater valve is stuck

bad coil

Needs fuel adjustment, running too rich