Error code 136 motor stall. Can be caused by several things. 1. Faulty wiring or copper stator in motor. Check with ohm meter. You haven't said what model so I can't tell you what your ohms should be. 2. Faulty RPS (rotor position sender) That little circuit board on top of the stator. You need a special RPS test meter to check it. 3. Drum seizing up. Try spinning the steel bowl by hand, it should be very easy to rotate and no loud bearing noise. 4. Faulty main control board. Don't worry about the cracks in the stator. Nearly every machine I work on has cracks. It doesn't affect performance.
Your Error code is 130 130. (10000010) Phase 1 to 6 Single Rotor Position Sensor Error
The Motor Controller has found an error in the pattern received from the Rotor
Position Sensor. Likely causes of this fault are a bad connection on the harness
between the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller, or a faulty Rotor
Primary Source: Wiring.
1) Check for corrosion on the edge connector of the Rotor Position Sensor and
the Motor Controller module connector.
2) Check the contacts on the rotor positional sensor end of the hall harness to
see if any have been damaged. (Each set of contacts in the socket has two
wipers. If the distance between these wipers varies between different
contacts, replace the rotor positional sensor harness).
Secondary Source: Rotor Position Sensor.
Check the Rotor Position Sensor with an R.P.S. tester. Replace if faulty.
Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module.
Replace Motor Controller module.
Check your lid switch. Take a PLASTIC Knife while lid is open and settings are on wash cycle...Stick it in the lid hole then see if washer turns on ..It might be cracked..That wound be the reason some time it works... Sometimes it don't...
Not enough details. What is the model number and how did you come up with error code 34. That code only applies to a very old model ( over 20 yrs old) While it is beeping do not press ant buttons and write down which lights are on along the top row. Count from the left and tell us which number lights are on and which are off.
I own and have repaired my smart drive washer. The water pump is very simple to remove on these machines. Unplug the machine and drain as much water from it as possible. There's a small plastic locking tab on one side of the pump. Gently pry it away from the body of the pump and twist the housing until it comes free from the metal pump housing anchor plate. Unplug the pump from it's connection and remove it. Found a guide that should help you -
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.