20 Most Recent Behringer EURORACK UB2442FX PRO Mixer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

http://www.gitarrenfundgrube.de/manual/Behringer-GMX110_GMX112_GMX1200H_GMX210_GMX212_M_EN.pdf Below is a link to Guitar Center which appears to have this instrument. Guitar Center Music Instruments Accessories and Equipment

It sounds like a n overheating problem. Some component is running too hot and shutting down. This will not be a user servicable problem and it needs to go into the shop. Discuss it with the shop when you take it in to be sure they will have access to the parts they need. Behringer is notoriously slow to ship parts so if it's an exclusively Behringer part as compared to a general electronic part you may have to consider replacing the unit depending on what time frame you have to work with.

There has to be some internal problem for a fuse to blow. Putting in a bigger fuse can only cause more problems.

Pray. Maybe the God is playing it.

Try www.elektrotanya.com - you can down load 2 manuals per day, else pass the electronics test to get more :-)

Looking at pictures on line, you'll nee to remove the electronics panel - take out the screws around the rear edge at the back & the 3 at the top, behind the handle / in front of the panel. I would expect the panel to come out thru' the rear..... Be aware of the speaker lead - could be a bit short so you may need to disconnect it. Once the electronics panel (mixer & amp etx) is clear you should be able to get your hand inside / under the handle & undo the bolts. There's a possibility the if the handle is held on with bolts then there could be "blind" or "Tee" nuts under, so undoing the handle screws may be all you need to do? Take care though, because if they're normal nuts they could drop off into the gubbins! Good Luck!

In my opinion, due to the physical appearance of pmp4000 and pmp3000 look the same, it will most likely also have a common circuit and parts list (at least, most). Usually Behringer (and all the manufacturers), with the same series / sequence, using the same circuit, the difference is the number of channels only. You can compare the parts list on PMP3000 schematic, with your PMP4000. PMP4000. PMP3000 You can download from this link. http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_pmp3000_sch.rar/download.html Hope this helps. Regards.

It's probably not cost effective to repair it' Check the horn driver and the raw woofer to see if they are still good, and if so retain then as spares.

It's always possible, but I doubt it's the fader. I'd suggest taking it to the shop for a hands on diagnosis.

i suggest you contact Behringer Customer Service for advixce. Without the setup in front of me, it's hard to figure out the wire routeing, switch positions, ect. that may be leading to this problem. As they would be the people most familiar with the gear, they'sd be the people to ask. http://www.music-group.com/support/behringer/askquestion

You can connect where it is possible. I hope you will understand.

On what channels from what source? Is it from USB too? have you got the gains set right? are you overdriving the amp? does the USB output distort as well?

I presume you are using the send and return inputs on the EFX500. Make sure the effect selector, CH Selector and EF On/off are set right. then use these in the insert chain of the mixer for the channel/bus/sub you want to use the effects on. Remember on the mixer it will be tip send and ring return. It would be useful if you said which behringer mixer (they make an awful lot of them from complex digital to simple DJ) and what you are trying to do with it. It is clearly explained in the Pioneer manual under basic connections. If you are a DJ you may not be familiar with the Insert concept so get yourself down to a professional sound/PA outlet or Radioshack / Maplin and ask for a pair of insert leads.

This is going to be a nightmare. The only way will be in a daisychain with the crossover probably last, the sonic exciter before it, the virtualiser before that and the DJ mixer (which one are you using) at the beginning of the chain. What on earth are you trying to do? As a DJ it is likely most of what you play will already have been compressed to the limit so the multicom may not have much to do unless you're going to use it to reverse the effects of the exciter in which case forget both of them. I assume you're going to bi or tri amp so it is probable the crossover will be last as stated but trying to figure ANY way to get some use out of your list you might try the exciter in the Sub output of the crossover and the virtualiser on the mid and the multicom on mid top but this would just be trying to get anything of value from your list. Forgive me but it seems you really don't know what you are doing as the equipment you are listing is not really for DJing and certainly would not normally be used in the only way you could really use it in your environment. Did you get a job lot or something?

A bit more info about what you're you;re trying to do would be useful. You would normally use both these as inserts either on the main bus or more likely on an individual or subgroup bus, as you want them in sequence you'll come out of the insert send (tip) into the first unit (whichever you feel is best first) and then from its output into the input of the second unit, then from the output of the second unit into the insert return (ring)

Once connected to the computer you have to open your Daw and find the menu to activate the mixer via midi. Check the user manual of your Daw. Also you might have to do some midi mapping to set up the controls.

I can't give you a definite answer but I suspect the Peavey speakers with their four wires require a different sort of amplifier.to the conventional type. You will be aware in lots of speaker enclosures are one or two drive units and a tweeter. Ensuring the right frequency of signal goes to the right speaker will be a filter or crossover which is also housed in the enclosure. This has been the common way to deliver a good sound forever. There has been a fashion for delivering a good sound differently by placing the filter network or crossover in the pre-amp stages and then delivering the different frequency signals to two, three or more power amplifiers, each one designed to amplify a particular frequency range and in this way fewer compromises are made to the purity of the resulting sound. Each amplifier would have an output through a pair of wires destined for the drive unit is was designed for. Two and three rack amplifiers have been a very popular way of delivering sound in cinemas, in particular a powerful bass. I haven't personally been involved with such an amplifier but I remember the magazine Wireless World publishing a series of articles about the system and the instructions for building one. These are just my thoughts on the matter and your next step would be to examine the internal wiring of your speakers to be sure.