Jensen LXA300 Car Audio Amplifier - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you remove the clamp, there will be a part number on it. Post the numbers on the transistor and we'll go from there.

You can download this manual here: http://www.voxxintlcorp.com/docs/common/LXA300/LXA300_IM.pdf

On most amps, rmt (remote) is a wire that connects to your stereo remote wire to the remote port on the amp. The remote wire turns your amp on when turning ignition on and turns amp off when turning ignition off. This wire needs to be connected as without it, you will drain your battery.

If your amp is 2 ohm stable it will do 75 rms to both sides maybe a little more.

Specifically it's 50x2 rms at 4 ohms stereo, 75x2 rms at 2 ohms stereo, and 150x1 at 4 ohms bridged.

You either have a short in your wiring (between the amp and the sub) or have wired the sub(s) at too low of a resistance. If for example you have wired it to 2 ohms, when the amp can only support a 4ohm minimum, the protect light would come on once you tried to turn up the volume a bit. This may happen if you have lost the wiring off one of your subs or one of the voice coils, thereby affecting the total resistance.

it means you have a short in your wiring, a bad (shorted) speaker or a short inside of the amp itself.

Yes

i have a 2 channel boss amp running my 6x9's & a candence 2 channel on my bass ..they say for ur mids & high's a 4channel is best , but i like the 2 channel better ... so i think u wil be fine with the amp uhave , just be sure 2 tun it down so it wnt blow ur 6x9's...

buy one at walmart...

2 x 75 watts RMS per channel (2 x 100 watts peak)
150 watts RMS bridged into a 4 ohm load

Replace the fuses.

it is not real hard to hook up a amp if you got any questions just ask me

it could have a short inside of the amp. my old amp did that and i moved my grounding wire and it shot sparks all throughout my trunk..... try to return it. or exchange it. tell them its defected

the r+ and r- are for the right sub and the l+ and l- are for the left sub

Also called speaker level inputs, an input on an amplifier specifically designed for higher voltage and lower impedance signals, typically between 1.2 to 12 volts and 4 to 8 ohms, as found on the outputs of low powered speaker connections. Hi-level inputs are commonly used as an easy and convenient upgrade path to connect factory-installed head units to after-market amplifiers.
high level inputs are less subjected to interference and can travel further without signal loss.
Factory radios do not have dedicated outputs for amplifiers (preamp outputs). So you'll want an amplifier with speaker-level (often called high-level) inputs; these inputs enable you to tap into the factory speaker wires for a signal flow.
They're called high-level inputs because the voltage level is significantly higher than with a standard preamp output connection. These inputs convert the high voltage to one the amplifier can handle. Once connected, you'll hear clean, well-defined sound (including the lyrics to your favorite song).
Speaker-level inputs are a standard of many two- and four-channel, and mono subwoofer amplifiers.
All the power wires no the amp will be ran the same with the exception of the remote turn on wire. +12v constant will still go to the battery(properly fused with 12" of the battery!), and the ground will still go to the chassis. You can hook the remote turn on to the +12v ignition wire behind the radio, or the equivilent fuse in the fuse box. I would not recomend hooking it up to the pwr ant wire on the stock deck as it often goes off when the radio is off, or cd is playing.

As I said, most cars have no issues with any of this, but cars with "PREMIUM SOUND" systems often do not mesh well with aftermarket equipment. Fords JBL or chrystlers infinity (And bose in darn near anything!) are often cause issues. Sometimes you can easily bypass this system(Ford), sometimes you have little choice but to rip it all out and start fresh(Bose). I can walk you through the scenarios for most makes and models, but certainly do not have the time or patience to give every one. Hit me up on the forum and I will be happy to help you further....

Eith some wires touched, you dont have big enough fues or you have somehting hooked up wrong

If you are running a set or a single subwoofer with the jensen amp than you will want to hook up the rca cord to the subwoofer rca connection on the back of the stereo unit-the other rca outputs are there in the event that you want to run a 2 or 4 channel amp to power the speakers that are generally located in the doors or back deck-with that set up properly you would still be able to adjust the balance and the fader just as though you were powering the speakers with the deck. Pug the free ends of the RCA cord into the input rca receptacles of the amp- the stereo now will feed a signal to the amplifier that only contains bass - good luck

Hello deslamer07,

First remove the primary fuse on the 12V power wire.

Run a temporary wire from the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery to where the amp is located. You do not need to make a permanent connection, just wrap the wire around the terminal enough to get a good connection. Use a multimeter set to the lowest OHMS scale and test between your proposed ground connection and the negative battery terminal. A good ground will indicate near "zero" (or very near zero). If you don't get a "zero" reading, try to find a screw or bolt going into the metal of the vehicle. Again, the meter will read "zero" when you have located a good ground. Reattach the amp ground terminal to the good ground, remove the temporary test wire, reinstall the primary fuse and test the amp. If it was just the ground, you've fixed it.

Hope this helps.

well the "turn on" is just that - a relay inside the amplifier that allows the 12V Main to connect with the power supply on the inside of the amp.
hook up the remote turn on wire to a switched ignition source, and your amplifier will turn on.
If you are looking to TEST the amplifier - you can temporarily Jumper the remote terminal and the + terminal to get the amplifier ON - however when you instal it - you will want to put it on a switched power source so it goes on and off with the car.

If you need more help - im here.

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