20 Most Recent Kenwood KAC-9102D Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

It probably burned a trace on the circuit board.

With the amp hooked up normally and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage), do you read 12v DC anywhere on the case of the amp (black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp)?

If there is no voltage on the case, confirm that you have 12v on the B+ and remote terminals of the amp (black probe on ground terminal of the amp).

Look round the unit and see if there is a fuse or open up the cover and look for a fuse.

The amplifiers should certainly be able to handle 2 ohm loads so there is no issue there. I would suggest using a multimeter set to ohms, and measure the subwoofers to make sure they're still at 2 ohms each. Check your ground connections to ensure they're secure and reading as actual ground. Also, if you're just now tuning these amps to your system for the first time, set the gain at the lowest level that generates sound when your head unit volume is 3/4 of the max that you comfortably listen at. Use that as a starting point, and with a bass heavy track (if that's what you're into) slowly turn the gain up until you notice distortion, and then back off a bit. When you say you turn up 1/4 of the way, I'm not sure if you're talking about the amp gain or your head unit's volume. Also, your bass boost should be all the way down, and your LPF should ideally be no higher than 80 to 90 Hz. Hopefully your mids can offset the difference so you don't have a sonic gap between lows and mids. If you've done all this with both amps, everything else checks out good, and each of them still blows fuses, then you've gotten some amps that weren't properly refurbished. It does happen. Get your money back in that case. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/reginald_bec291de192ca44f

If the sub isn't working, you won't get a pop. All you need is a small speaker. Don't need a sub, you just want to test the sound. I recently blew 2 subs, no smoke, no smell, no sign of being blown. Absolutely nothing from the subs.... In the past my sub locked up. You can take your sub out of the box and hook the + and - to the battery to see if you can get the sub to pop there. I believe a small box will push a sub into a deep excursion to the center of the cone. I have 2 lanzar VW12D's that just quit. I hooked a 6 x 9 up to my amp and low and behold I had sound! Try that and see what you get...

New amp sounds messed up... grounds are bad and sometimes the amp tries to draw power but cant... So it immediately goes to protect... All jacked up... Audio specialist could help... Repair shop if local ..

The output IC mounted on the heat sink is the part that will burn if you did a bad connection using the output wires.

500x 1 is 500watts/1 channel. First you will bring up the volume on the head unity to the point where your mid speaker will no have distortion.Now slowly bring up the gain on the amp to the point where it will not have distortion.If you looking at the sub speaker while doing that you will see at some point the speaker can take no more.So set it just below that point.

Shop time.

One thing is take the screws out that you have used to mount it. Obviously you have drilled into bare metal. The path that you have created for the ground was not designed for that kind of current which would explain some of the heat. It warns against doing that in the manual. I have this amp myself and it heats up and cuts out all of the time still. I do not believe it is a power problem. I have a 5 Farad cap. Make sure your main ground for your car has a big enough gauge wire and also, if you can afford it, buy better battery terminals.

I need some more information. What is it actually doing to make you think that it is overheating?

Usually means it is overloaded/over heated. Check to make sure what the amp can handle and make sure the speakers are wired correctly to handle the load you are putting on the amp.

• Wire up two 4 Ohm subs in parallel (bridged) or one 2 Ohm sub.

• You will take both of your subs positive leads and run them to the left positive (white connector on the amp) and both of your subs negative leads and run them both to the right negative (gray and black connector on the amp). That's max RMS right there. Pay attention to the Ohm rating of your subs as this does play a factor. What I explained is how to bridge two 4 Ohm subs. 8 Ohm is a little different but car subs rarely are 8 Ohm.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Yes, keep in mind that the amps have a constant power (the large red wire) and need a remote signal to tell them when to turn on/off. This wire connect to a switched 12v from the ignition or radio blue wire (if aftermarket)

unplug all speakers and see if it still into protect .If unit powers up normally without speakers , then hook up a temporary speaker directly to speaker out to see if you have output.If it works .Then check speaker cables and speakers for shorts.Also make sure you have good ground and main power and standy are present.

If I had to guess by touching the positive and the negative terminals together it probably fried up the transistors. While back I did the same to my amp and poof amp no longer worked. Took the amp apart to find the transistors fried up. Ordered them from the manufacturer but never installed them, ended up buying a new amp. Mainly, replacing the amp doesn't mean it would fix the problem....

speed hacker

Well, I have no idea why you would have two capacitors on a 500 watt amp but, did you charge the capacitors? Have you tried the amp without the capacitors? What size power wire are you using?