20 Most Recent True GDM-33-SSL-54 Refrigerator Questions & Answers

It could possibly be an issue with the thermostat not shutting off. I would set it at it's setting to see if it shuts off. If not replace the thermostat. Also check to see if the evaporator fans are running.

The pan in the inside of the unit or the one underneath for collecting and evaporating the water?If it's the one inside take the front bottom panel off and blow out the drain line leading down there. If its the pan underneath and it cant keep up with the water flow check to be sure it has some white cotton looking panels in the pan. They are an accessory called a wicking kit designed to absorb the water and as the air blows over them they help evaporate the water. If those are present and in good shape but its overflowing there you may need to get an electric condensate pan.

Change the temperature control.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/repair/tempcontrol.php

Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

The Poor cooling that you are facing is caused due to the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer, The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch), The defrost heater. Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,

Concerned.

The drain line is mostly likely clogged.

You need to find the drain line and try snaking the line out with either compressed air or a fairly sturdy length of wire.

Taking the face of the evaporator fan off would probably help with finding the drain. Unplug the fridge while doing this so you arent working around live fans or the defroster!

Good luck and be careful.

http://www.truemfg.com/pdf/InstallManuals/GDM-3/gdm-3_english.pdf

Probably the evaporator fan has stopped working. If there is no airflow evap will freeze. Chrck operation of fam motor.

If your cooler is constantly running too cold the thermostat is probably bad. I can hook yu up with a thermostat. ;) www.northeastcooling.com

2 things to check - Excessive moisture coming inside will cause frosting - Have it serviced and check proper door seals - the next thing to check, for frost free units, is the defrost timer and its components - no defrost cycle = frosting up.

Question edited for clarity. The Service Manual says that the wiring diagram is hidden in various parts of the unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1177583/True-Gdm-Series.html?page=43&term=wiring+diagram&selected=1#manual It doesn't appear to be all in one place, but you could contact their Customer Service, or Technical Service Department? https://www.google.com/search?q=true+gdm-35em+wiring+diagram ..

If the left-hand door of your True TBB-3G fridge is sagging and creating an air gap at the bottom of the frame where it meets the cooler, here are some steps you can take to fix the issue:

1. Check the door hinges: Inspect the hinges on the door and the frame of the fridge. Look for any damage or wear that may be causing the door to sag. If the hinges are damaged, they may need to be replaced.
2. Adjust the door hinges: If the hinges are in good condition, try adjusting them to see if this resolves the issue. Use a wrench to loosen the screws that hold the hinges in place, and then adjust the hinges up or down as needed to align the door with the frame. Tighten the screws back in place when you are finished.
3. Check the door gasket: If the door gasket is worn or damaged, it may not be sealing properly and causing air gaps. Check the gasket for any damage or signs of wear, and replace it if necessary.
4. Check the door closer: The door closer on the left-hand side may be damaged or worn, causing the door to sag. Inspect the closer and look for any signs of damage. If it is damaged, it may need to be replaced.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, you may need to contact a professional repair service to help diagnose and fix the problem.

It's possible that the issue may be with the thermostat or the compressor. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may not be regulating the temperature correctly. Similarly, if the compressor is not working properly, it may not be able to cool the fridge down to the desired temperature. It's best to have a professional take a look and diagnose the issue. Another possible cause is the refrigerant levels, if the refrigerant is low this can cause the compressor not being able to cool the fridge properly and will need to be refilled by a professional.

This is a $3,600 commercial undercounter fridge. Great make and I have used many of them in my 50 year catering career. There is nothing on fixing Error 13. Pages 76 and 79 state 'Communication Error'.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS - NET

https://dc2kentprodcontent.blob.core.windows.net > ... PDF TDM (True Display Merchandiser) Refrigerator. Holds 33?F to 41?F (0.5?C to 5?C), ... Temperature. Communication error. E13. -. CURRENT CONTROL DISPLAY. Contact Technical Support direct for how to fix. https://www.truemfg.com/NA/Products/Bajo-Mostrador/TUC-24G-HC~FGD01 ..

The freezer door being open all night cause the compressor to run all night continuously trying to cool the unit down. This caused an increase in resistance and tripped the breaker. It may stabilise, but it may need a service call to fix the issue. It may also be a lazy breaker and it is the breaker that needs swapping out. you can normally compare them against adjacent breaker, a lazy one feels soft and doesn't snap of Off when you move is slowly to the Off position. They also feel different when switching to On. I have spent a 50 year career in catering and hospitality fighting fridges and freezers, electrics and plumbing. Now retired :>) Get this fixed by Easter because in my experience, it will break down on Saturday at 8:00pm!