Top 20 True GDM-12FC Refrigerator Questions & Answers

There is a relay that starts the compressor, try checking that.

you need to make sure your door is closing tight and the gasket on the door is not torn

Hi,
Lubing it may help for a bit but will noly be temporary...it will need to be replaced...

Here is a tip that I wrote about refrigerators and the fan noise that they develop sometimes...

Refrigerator Fan Noise

heatman101

Not fun the first time. Unplug the unit. There will be a plate with two screws that the thermostat is mounted to either on the right side or right front of the coil cover. Remove the two screws and pull the plate and thermostat down in one piece. Unplug the two wires from the stat and remove the plate from the stat making sure to note which way the plate and thermostat are oriented. The thin capillary from the stat runs up to the back of the coil. You have to reach your hand into the opening created by removing the plate and feel your way to the capillary entrance at the coil. You may be able to just see it through the hole. Make a good mental note of its position in there and pull the old capillary out. Measure how deep the capillary was in there and try to get that far in with the new one. I generally put a little piece of tape on the new capillary about where I want it to stop at the coil. You just want to make sure the capillary is clear of any wires and doesn't rub against anything in its routing. Reinstall is reverse of uninstall.

Question edited for clarity. The Service Manual says that the wiring diagram is hidden in various parts of the unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1177583/True-Gdm-Series.html?page=43&term=wiring+diagram&selected=1#manual It doesn't appear to be all in one place, but you could contact their Customer Service, or Technical Service Department? https://www.google.com/search?q=true+gdm-35em+wiring+diagram ..

It's possible that the issue may be with the thermostat or the compressor. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may not be regulating the temperature correctly. Similarly, if the compressor is not working properly, it may not be able to cool the fridge down to the desired temperature. It's best to have a professional take a look and diagnose the issue. Another possible cause is the refrigerant levels, if the refrigerant is low this can cause the compressor not being able to cool the fridge properly and will need to be refilled by a professional.

This is a $3,600 commercial undercounter fridge. Great make and I have used many of them in my 50 year catering career. There is nothing on fixing Error 13. Pages 76 and 79 state 'Communication Error'.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS - NET

https://dc2kentprodcontent.blob.core.windows.net > ... PDF TDM (True Display Merchandiser) Refrigerator. Holds 33?F to 41?F (0.5?C to 5?C), ... Temperature. Communication error. E13. -. CURRENT CONTROL DISPLAY. Contact Technical Support direct for how to fix. https://www.truemfg.com/NA/Products/Bajo-Mostrador/TUC-24G-HC~FGD01 ..

If the left-hand door of your True TBB-3G fridge is sagging and creating an air gap at the bottom of the frame where it meets the cooler, here are some steps you can take to fix the issue:

1. Check the door hinges: Inspect the hinges on the door and the frame of the fridge. Look for any damage or wear that may be causing the door to sag. If the hinges are damaged, they may need to be replaced.
2. Adjust the door hinges: If the hinges are in good condition, try adjusting them to see if this resolves the issue. Use a wrench to loosen the screws that hold the hinges in place, and then adjust the hinges up or down as needed to align the door with the frame. Tighten the screws back in place when you are finished.
3. Check the door gasket: If the door gasket is worn or damaged, it may not be sealing properly and causing air gaps. Check the gasket for any damage or signs of wear, and replace it if necessary.
4. Check the door closer: The door closer on the left-hand side may be damaged or worn, causing the door to sag. Inspect the closer and look for any signs of damage. If it is damaged, it may need to be replaced.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, you may need to contact a professional repair service to help diagnose and fix the problem.

The freezer door being open all night cause the compressor to run all night continuously trying to cool the unit down. This caused an increase in resistance and tripped the breaker. It may stabilise, but it may need a service call to fix the issue. It may also be a lazy breaker and it is the breaker that needs swapping out. you can normally compare them against adjacent breaker, a lazy one feels soft and doesn't snap of Off when you move is slowly to the Off position. They also feel different when switching to On. I have spent a 50 year career in catering and hospitality fighting fridges and freezers, electrics and plumbing. Now retired :>) Get this fixed by Easter because in my experience, it will break down on Saturday at 8:00pm!

without knowing age of unit, I suggest replacing the motor. Sounds like the armature is worn the bearings and is moving inside the windings of the motor. I would do that first before moving forward with any other repairs.

Most of the time it's a compressor relay that does this. Your model will most likely have one. Get your model number and check the internet and see if your model has one. They are usually a small black plastic device attached directly to the compressor terminals and take up two of the three terminals. This is under the black plastic cover that is held on by a metal piece or wire, right on the compressor itself. Usually they're only about 10-20 bucks so it my be worth a shot.

sometimes the evap has a copper tube that the sensing buld goes into and is very hard to find. The operations manual (found on Parts Town.Com) does not mention it but I have had experiences where you really have to look hard as the hole is less than a quarter of an inch and is sometimes covered with a putty similar to plumbers putty.

Hello Vic, I'm not sure what model of Freezer you have, but I suspect that the "condenser" coils on the back or underside of the unit need to be vacuumed or cleaned to rid of the dust bunnies, cat/dog hair etc. The compressor is likely trying desperately to do it's job, but that array of pipes are the only way it can get rid of the heat that it is stealing from the inside of the freezer. IF the coils are clean or if it still keeps running after cleaning... no matter what setting the "cold" dial is set to, then likely there could be a relay that has fused close preventing the unit from cycling properly. I hope this helps! /The GreyOne

You mean 'low as it can go', talking temperature not numbers. The temperature is too high. You need a refrigeration engineer. You either need a top up of gas or the thermostat has failed. They are great fridges, I have had lots of them in my career.

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Then what...? You don't like the way it works...? or unusual...? Old fridge always noisy then brand news one. As long as it's cold the way it should be then it's okay. Good luck Mai

Just google "Partstown.com" and look for the manual. They have a very extensive library of manuals.

The first thing that needs to be determined is if the internal box temp is rising above the desired temp and causing the compressor to come on. If so, you may have an issue with the box insulation or an air leak somewhere on the box. Start there and we can progress in the troubleshooting steps.

It may be a bad start capacitor on the compressor......