Top 20 True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer GDIM-49NT Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Televisions. There is two sizes https://www.partstown.com/true/gdm-49f/parts?searchwithin=capillary Parts suppliers https://www.google.com/search?q=True+GDM-49F-LD+parts ..

Did you replace or add a filter drier at compressor replacement? It may have a partial blockage at the inlet to the evaporator.

My best guess is that the drain has some debris in it and the defrosted water from the coil is being picked up and being re-frozen against the coil and freezing up the drain pan. The defrost timer may have failed, the defrost termination button fastened to the coil may have failed, the defrost heater on the coil itself may have separated from the coil or just outright failed. Hope this helps and good luck.

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The smallest of the two.

Check the condenser coil is clear and clean, and thermostat set about 2 or 3. Also check the fan is running with door closed, and no food is too close to the top stopping the airflow over the evaporator. It may be as simple as a blocked drain backing up - check the drain tube next time it defrosts.

why yes there is. Generally speaking, the head pressure should be around the "ambient +30" rule.
That is, measure the entering air temp to the condenser, say 75 degrees. Now add 30 to that and get 105 degrees. Look at a P/T chart and see what the pressure is for that temp which is about 253 for R-404-A.
The evap on a freezer leads the load so, as a general rule, the evap temp is going to be around minus 10 degrees to get a 0 degree box. Coolers are different. So, the pressure for a minus 10 evap is around 25 or so. But the unit has to be close to operating temp. If the box is warm, naturally the pressure is higher. And what influences the pressure is whether or not it's a TXV or a cap tube system.
If a TXV and no receiver, charge by subcooling. If a receiver, fill by sight glass. If Cap tube, charge by superheat.
Hope that answers your question.

Probably locked rotor. This happens sumetims when the connecting rod breaks or seizes up on the crank shaft. Seperate your power cord ar some point so that you can put an amp meter around just one of the hot wires. It should be 10.2 amps maximum. I think you will see it spike to 25 amps for 2 to 3 seconds when the compressor tries to start. That almost immediately kicks out the overload. This compressor is not rebuildable. so it will require a new one if it is what I think.

Hello,

I don't think there is anything wrong with your freezer, maybe the bulb's quality is low that's why it does not last.

Also, the bulb might not last as a result of irregular power supply or power outage.

Either of the above is the reason why the bulbs in your refrigerator won't last.

Take care.

If it is R22 then it will be about 11psig on the suction side. This should give you a -18 degrees across the coil.

May I get the model and serial # to help you find out the year.

maybe theres a stock up in the passage in the drain. just try to check up.

Possible shorted compressor.

Check list:
Compressor running and warm to the touch?
Condenser fan motor running?
Lines on the high side of the compressor warm to the touch?
Condenser is clean and clear of lint and fluff?
All fans inside and outside running?


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://www.truemfg.com/pdf/InstallManuals/GDIM/GDIM_english.pdf
Check out this web site. It has the manual for the unit you are asking about.

Hope this is a fix for ya.

There are three main reasons the fans would not come on.
1: A bad door switch. There are switches on the top part of door frame. They turn fans off when door is opened to prevent warm air from being drawn into unit when door is open. If a switch goes bad the fans will never turn on.
2: Refrigeration problem. The fans are tied into a temperature switch called a fan delay. The fans will not come on until the coil is well below freezing. This is to prevent water spray after a defrost. If unit is low on gas or has any other cooling issue the fans will not come on.
3: Bad fan delay switch. If the fan delay switch becomes "stuck open" the fans will not be energized.

Feel the back of your evaporator coil, if it is very cold and frosted you probably have a bad fan switch, or a bad door switch. ;)

The pressures depend, somewhat, on the expansion device,i.e. a TXV or Cap Tube. Take a pressure reading, then convert it to a temperature. The evap temp should be right at 10 colder than the box temp. Remember, heat flows to cold so the evap has to "Lead the Load" in order to cool. In many cases, the condensing pressure is usually ambient temp, plus 30, then convert to a pressure. These are general accepted practices that have been used for many years.

Hope this helps

Try refrigeration hardware service out of Colorado. I'm not sure they sell to the end user, give them a try.

Most commercial refrigeration supply houses should be able to help you with getting the heater or if not at least give you a steer
as to where to go or who to contact. Some are really helpful, others can be real jerks. Sorry but without knowing the area you are in I cannot give you more info than that. Did you Google the Brand name of the freezer ?????

Freezers have a sensor that is referred to as a "Fan Delay/Defrost Terminator". It senses the temp during the defrost cycle. Usually, when the evap temp reaches about 50 degrees, there should not be any frost or ice on it. This device terminates the defrost cycle. It also keeps the fans off so warm air is not circulated. When the evap gets to about 20 degress or so, the sensor switches on the evap fans. If the fans are not coming on, either the sensor is bad or the evap is not reaching the proper temp to cause the sensor to turn on the fans.

Hope is helps to clear up some things and point you in a direction as to what might be going on.