20 Most Recent K2 Razorback Team Questions & Answers

Mario, there are two type of cranks that you could have. The first is held on by a bolt in the center of your crank, the second type has bolts holding on the crank arm on the non-drive side and the whole thing slips out of the bottom bracket bearings. If you have the older style with the bolt in the center of the crankset you will need a 14 or 15mm socket wrench and a crank puller. The crank puller will thread in to the crank and a center "driver" is then turned in against the bottom bracket to remove the crank arm. You can remove the rings with out taking the crank set off, however. The hard part about that is holding the back side of the chain ring bolts so they don't spin while you try to loosen them. There is a handy little tool made for that, too.

Try contacting K2 directly.

http://www.eccyclesupply.com/k2bikes/index.php?page=contact

I assume you means that it slips sometimes. This is usually due to the ratchet mechanism just needing a bit of lube. If you have a thread-on type freewheel (see image below) then you can usually just squirt some WD40 into the little holes near the center of the freewheel. Those holes would be facing the table in the threaded freewheel pictured below. If that doesn't work for you, it's not all that difficult or expensive to just replace the whole freewheel. However, if you have the splined type pictured on the right, the ratchet mechanism is in the wheel's hub, making replacement more of a big deal. WD-40 would probably do the trick on this type too, but I never had one some I'm not certain how easy it is to get the lube where you need it. Good luck!

from the frame or the pads? if it fell from the frame then you might need a new nut or maybe see a bicycle repair shop.

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A major limitation is the steerer tube length. No matter how many times you cut a steerer tube it won't get longer.

Getting Riser Bars or simply flipping the stem over or getting one with a different rise and reach might give you the added height you need. If you LIKE the handlebars, the stem is the best and least-invasive option as most new ones come with front loaders (detachable front caps) that allow replacement without stripping components off one side of the handlebar. In minutes a Bicycle Shop could swap any number of them onto your bike for you to try.

A reputable Bicycle Shop would have fit the bike to you before you took it home.

The cable runs through a bent piece of aluminum tubing called a noodle. At the end of the noodle is a piece that looks like the business end of a bullet. You need to squeeze the two brake pad levers and insert the bullet on top of the cable catch.

The Next PX 6.0 uses a 27.2mm seat post.

There is no serial number database for those bikes https://www.google.com/search?q=white+super+chief+bicycle+date+of+manufacture https://www.google.com/search?q=white%27s+super+chief ..

serial number is 12900243GT m one. Can anyone tell me the year?

clean your garage and you will have it. or try bike shops.

If your bicycle doesn't have mechanical gears, the issue might be related to the freewheel or cassette, depending on your bike's specific setup.

Standard WD40 is just a 'quick fix' as it isn't an actual oil unless the can is clearly labelled as "Bike All Condition Lubricant". It'll be best to buy a proper light oil like 3in1, 151 Super oil or an actual chain lube. This 'clickey' noise. Is it random and happening every so often or is it a constant, regular click that changes with the speed your pedalling at? Check for slack in the chain. as you wiggle the chain up and down there should only be about a centimetre of movement in the chain. If it's too slack or too tight it can make strange noises. Check the axle bolts and nuts to make sure they're not loose. Check the wheel is mounted straight. If it's turned left or right the chain will 'skip' as it's slightly missing the cog teeth on the wheel. Use the frame at the rear end of the wheel as reference and measure how far the side of the wheel is from the frame on both sides. It should be about the same both sides.

No, not easily, but you could fix it possibly? https://www.google.com/search?q=edge+491+electromagnetic+bike ..

1962

It is a very standard bike, this manual will do just fine. It has normal caliper brakes. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C1i84aprpSS.pdf https://bikeindex.org/bikes/1022118 https://www.google.com/search?q=Nishiki+Manitoba+manual

I have done a tremendous amount of research on this problem. New Balance (Fitness Quest) is out of business as of late 2012 and no parts are available. The main bearing or crank bearing set is 100% compatible with Proform part number 295560. Since New Balance put their name on this product, they have stated they will reimburse customers for the repairs.

dont think you have one believe 89 started having them ------https://www.justanswer.com/ford/1e5mr-1986-ford-ranger-2-9-liter-spark-fuel-pressure.html

You are using the wrong terms although 'pedals' is correct. The 'shaft' is called a 'crank' or a 'crankset'. https://www.google.com/search?q=Nishiki+Tamarack+crankset+and+pedals General Parts https://www.google.com/search?q=Nishiki+Tamarack+parts+website ..