20 Most Recent Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater w/Electronic Ignition (50,000-80,000 BTU) - Page 8 Questions & Answers

sunds like the fan bearings have seized up or u have a bad fan capacitor take a screwdriver and spin ith blade to where the air would be coming out the top and if it startswhen u spin it u need a fan capacitor

They may go to the start capacitor. Check the wiring diagram on the door panel.

Hi check out the fan control afc see if it is clean , check out pressure switch and the flame sencer

HI jump out the presure switch see if it lights check out the fan control switch

If the igniter is reading zero ohms that's telling you it's shorted or bad. They should range from approximately 100 to 400 ohms.
If you don't have any resistance (ohms) you won't get a voltage drop or volt reading.

Turn the tanks off outside and take the regulator off the tanks and the main line and bring it inside and thaw it out the regulator is frozen and won't open. Thaw it out and put it back on and it should work if not you may need a new regulator.

Hi yes try that first also check out pressure switch jump it out see if it lights

I would start with the flame sensing rod. There is a small metal rod approx 2 inches long with the diameter of a wire coat hanger.It has one wire attached to it which goes to the gas control board. It is mounted in front of one of the burners (often the burner furthest from the ignitor). This sensor sometimes develops a light coating that works like an insulator which will prevent it from sending the proper signal to the board to allow the gas valve to remain lit. In this case, the solution is simple: take a scotchbrite pad and lightly rub the flame sensing rod. This will remove the coating and allow for a proper signal to the board. Take care not to break the ceramic insulator, dislodge one of the burners, or to mistake the Hot Surface Ignitor for the flame sensing rod. The Hot Surface ignitor is the part that glows red and ignites the gas when the valve opens. It is extremely delicate. It has two wires (not one) and looks nothing like a single rod as I described the flame sensor. However, it too is mounted in front of a burner.
I hope you find this helpful. Good Luck! :-)

Hi check the flame sensor is clean also check out the pressure switch , and check air filter is clean

Hello
The click is either the gas valve opening or the ignitor trying to ignite.

From what you decribe,im going to say you have a bad ignitor.

If the gas valve is indeed opening,then you need igniton to light the gas,
which leads me to say bad ignitor.

Hope this helps.

Hi try cleaning the flame senser jump out pressure switch see if it lights hope this helps

This furnace should have a diagnostic light that will give you a starting point where to look. It is located on the control board and will blink a code. If you remove the panel with the door switch on it, you will erase the code. Look for a small viewing port that looks on to the circuit board. Once you get the code, look on the wiring diagram for a explaination of the codes.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

sounds like your plenum temp sensor is pooched. once your plenum gets to a certain temperature then a sensor closes, telling your fan to turn on, if the fan doesn't turn on then the flames will be shut off by the high limit switch witch prevents your plenum from burning up.

is the air filter clean afc could be dirty

Most Coleman units in a trailer dont have a draft fan. Are you talking about the fan that blows air through the floor registers? If yes, then you will probably need a new fan/limit control. If you do have a draft motor, you would probably need a new circuit board or draft fan relay.

Sure can. To do it properly, you should perform a smoke test after each adjustment. This requires a special tool. This may be why noone has answered your question yet. There is a band on the left side of the burner that can be opened to allow more air in. The flame should be bright orange/yellow. And again, perform a smoke test after you adjust it.

Make sure you have a wire connected to the G terminal both on the thermostat and the heater.

Hi, If this central system is taking out ignition modules, is it telling you it is because this relay you need is suppose to be the cause of this? What type of relay is this, a switching relay, time delay, double pole double throw, single pole double throw Ect. It is against our policy to contact you by phone due to my sites inforced rules on this, I hope you understand this. I will do some checking on this relay with the part number you gave me. If I had more information on it like contact arrangment, and what it controls would be very helpful as I may be able to cross reference it. The name on this relay also. You may want to wire in an inline 5 amp fuse on the load side of the module so the fuse will blow and not take the module out until the fault is found if you say it is the relay. I will get back to you, on this site.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Most likely in the ductwork on the cold air return side of the furnace. Sometimes if you have one return air grill, behind the grate.