20 Most Recent Coleman Propane Forced Air Heater w/Electronic Ignition (50,000-80,000 BTU) - Page 2 Questions & Answers

there is a thermo-sensor switch next to the circuit board that tells the fan switch to turn on when the plenum is hot enough. this needs to be replaced.

How many degrees before it reaches desired temp, does it shut off? A thermostat is designed to shut the furnace off a couple/ few degrees before it reaches set temp. It has what is called a heat anticipater, which shuts the burner down, and lets the blower use the remaining heat from the heat exchanger to bring it up to desired temp making it more efficient. If it is more than a few degrees, replace the thermostat. You can jump out the red and white wires to confirm the faulty thermostat. If by doing this, the furnace never shuts down, until you separate the red and white wires. That confirms a faulty thermostat. Hope this helps someone.

Check spark wire if OK bad module

Open hi temp limit switch or fan limit bad

Could be gas valve when energized Make sure filter is clean,plugged filter will increase amp draw on MTR.

DO NOT attempt to repair this yourself. LP gas is a very unforgiving gas. Sounds like your heat exchanger is plugged. Yes it can be removed and checked, BUT it is not recommended. Trust your local repair tech. Any heater 15+ years old should be discarded.

If the room air blower runs but the heat is not working, this is an indication that the heater has stored an error code. Your furnace has a diagnostic light that will blink a code. You should be able to view the LED thru a small viewing port in one of the front panels. If you have to remove a panel to get to it, it may erase the error code. If it does, tape down the door safety switch and cycle the furnace with the panel off. Once you get the error code, look on the wiring diagram for a diagnostic code chart. It may give you a starting point to help you. I am also including some other tips that may help.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Yes it can do but you will be better off by gone to a gas heater. MY own furnace was chance over to propane and didn't workout to good. Less then ayear i have put in a new heater. Ken's Repair

These are not designed to operate without the fan..

These are not designed to operate without a fan and doing so will cause the unit to overheat... There are 5 screws and a cover plate inside the rear of the unit. The fan can be easily removed then

Check air handler up in attic follow stat to power box on handler look for blown fuse.pull power at unit first

Google "Coleman" and go to "Propane Heaters" you should see a "contact us" or some such type in your problem along with when you bought the product they will be more than happy to help you.

It sounds like the fan is not functioning. With the breaker, SSU, and/or power off check the wiring, tighten any loose wiring, and make sure nothing is blocking the fan from spinning. Check to see if it will spin by hand, if there is access. If it does, and you have power, then the fan motor may need to be replaced. Does this help? Let us know. Ponder/Meditate/Pray for Peace. Mary Oliveau { hugs }

check your condensate drain lines, pressure switch will not make if there is a drain blockage or restriction

I had the exact same issue and replaced the control circuit board, igniter, flame sensor, and thermostat just to discover the real problem was a rusted out Roof Jack. (The exhaust pipe that goes through the roof. The inner fresh air pipe was rotted out so the furnace was sucking exhaust gases in which would not support combustion. Have your's checked.

He was 18