20 Most Recent Air Conditioning and Heat for Lexus RX350 Questions & Answers

2010 Lexus ES350: Normal cold air from passenger vents but 18 degrees warmer on drivers side. No DTCs and visually verified air mixer servo working normally. Originally when I checked gauge pressures, it was 210 on the high side and about 25 on the low side at idle. So I dismissed the issue being low refrigerant. I checked the system out with my scan tool and couldn't find the issue. I thought the heater core with hot water running through it could be the cause but after blocking one of the heater hoses, I still had the issue. Finally, I rechecked the pressures and the low side was at 20. I added almost 10 oz of refrigerant and at 102 degrees ambient temperature, the pressures are at 240 high and 23 low. Got inside the car and both drivers and passenger vents have 55 degree temps coming out.

Make sure your anti freeze is up where it should be in your radiator. Low fluid will do that.and that's a place to start. Also check for blocked heater core. Could be a bad thermostat. These are places to start before you get into electrical areas.

usually you can just remove the Bezel around it, but you may want to try taking out the glove compartment and getting to it from the back

No idea without a look first but the vent is opened by a vacumn controlled motor and the diaphgram could be finished like a hole in it so it doesnt work .consult a local mechanic to check it out for you

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Your braking problem could be from the diaphragm being torn inside the brake booster. If you are not losing fluid you should have that checked along with the hose that goes to the booster also, it may be soft and collapses when you apply the brakes. It connects to the manifold and uses vacuum to the power brake booster to apply and retract the master cylinder equally. The hose may be soft from being near the exhaust manifold and may need to be replaced. Also the check valve for the brake booster should be replaced if the hose is bad, it may have debris from the deteriorated hose.

Hello your question is a bit short on information, shooting in the dark here I am guessing you have the old 02 sensor out? If the connector got damaged you can go right to NAPA and get factory type connector to replace the damaged one with. As a last resort you can carefully match each wire then reconnect them by soldering each one. Make sure you use small enough shrink tube and also slide it on the wire before you solder each wire so you can cover each one after its been connected and cooled. Good luck and be safe. Mark / aka RagenRat

Belts are slipping. Check belt tensioner or get belt dressing

What you are seeing is brake pad and rotor dust..the reason you do not see as much on the rear is because over 60% - 70% of a cars braking is done by the front wheels and the they get a much faster and heavier braking..the dust is the evidence...note many times it is how the driver driver stops the vehicle..a slow pumping the brake stopping will not get the build up or very little while a jack rabbit heavy braking driver will get it quickly. I am concerned about the oily part..if you are saying just an oily residue mixed with the dust is ok because it is a hydraulic system and there us cylinder weepingis normal..but heavier oil could mean Front cylinder leaking...and should be checked by a professional..good luck..

Try car keys. It usually fits and if not try opening it with small flat head screwdriver

Probably need to replace the belt

Tell us what you are doing? Are you trying to find an OEM replacement bearing?

The emergency brake line or cable is holding u up it should pivot the same as the driver side

Is the solenoid defective?

Take back to Dealer,you have a warranty.

Whew. Doing electrical blind is a tough one. It can be several things. So, by process of elimination, we can find the problem. 1st off, the fuse probably blew, so replace it, then lets runs down the line. Remove inner door panel on passenger door Take your time finding all the fasteners before you pull hard and damage inner door trim panel. They have a way of cleverly hiding the screws and clips. Unplug window motor. Caution some inner door metal is sharp. Then with a continuity tester, check if you have power INTO each switch (key on) if you do, check if you have power going OUT when you activate switch, if not bad switch. Check fuse again that it's good. Next, assuming switch has power coming in and going out when activated, using same tester, check plug by window motor. Should have power to one of the wires when window switch is pushed (one wire for up, another wire for down) if not, a wire may be pinched somewhere, check door opening and inside door. If yes power at plug in when pushing switch, the window regulator (track and gearbox might be jammed or worn out) OR the motor went south(bad) causing fuse to blow. Make sure to test both switches. If new parts are out of budget, used parts work fine. Motor, regulator, or switches. More then likely the motor went out. Good luck. Oh yea, test your tester on the battery. Nothings worse than doing all that work only to find out your tester was bad from the start and gotta do it all over again. lol

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