20 Most Recent Toshiba 65H80 65" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

No, cabinet is glued and screwed---entire front screen can be removed and the mirror inside also(be very careful with that) as they are the two things that get damaged most when transporting a set.Moving a long ways or just across town?

a damp cloth is all you should use

THERE IS A BETTER WAY TO DO THIS THEN REMOVING THE SCREEN--IT CAN BE DONE BUT UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE DOING YOU COULD DAMAGE THE SCREEN.

Here is what I would suggest checking out first.

1) With the set unplugged remove the back cover.

2) With the cover off if you can see the three large black lens---and have enough room---get a swiffer type duster on a rod and carefully reach up inside from the back to get all the webs out.

3) If this works---it is also a good idea to wipe the three lens clean of any dust--do not remove the lens--it is not needed--you can clean then with a paper towel with glass clean sprayed on it--they are glass not plastic.

Let me know if you have questions--I am here to help.

If this information has helped you, rate this solution as I do this here for FREE.

SD TECH

If its a Toshiba either you did something wrong (set has 3 convergence yoke plugs that are identical but have to be plugged in correct socket) or you missed an open resistor near the chips---most of those are 1.8 to 2.7 ohms and will look perfect---I always check all of them when replacing the chips.

HI:
This is an indication of loss of high voltage, The deflection board has failed in the unit and needs servicing or replaced.

1. You can get a replacement "male" end of the cord for a couple bucks at Home Depot/lowes/tru-value etc.etc. It just snaps right on the end of the cord.

2. The plug can be detatched from the wall?

check your lamp, if lamp has been replaced then re-set the lamp timer, if you hear a clicking or buzzing and no picture is probable that you could have a ballast problem. I'd check the lamp first though.

You may have cooked your new IC's
I am working on the exact same problem with the same symptoms. Make sure the tv is unplugged for at least 5 minutes before poking around. The power cord can be unplugged from the power board and removed to keep anyone from plugging it in while you are working on it.
Check the output resistors that are beneath the heat sink on the left side of the board. There are also fusible resistors, like #7711, on that side.
Check fuse 853 on the Power board. This is the board on the left when viewed from the back of the TV. You can remove both boards in the carrier by carefully unplugging all connectors, noting their locations and routing.
To remove the high voltage wires from the splitter, mark them for position then grasp the boot and turn counter-clockwise about 10 degrees to unlock them and then pull up while holding the High voltage splitter. The small high voltage wire can be removed from the flyback transformer by pulling hard while holding the flyback.
STK392-110 can be replaced with STK392-120, STK392-180, STK394-160.
I have found most of the parts at newark.com. Also check out this site for some very good info: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-repair-maintenance/5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html
btw: I am not affiliated in any way.
Make sure that while you have the boards out you look for any bad solder connections. A lot of problems arise or return because of this.
I hope this helps, I have been doing a lot of searching to get this info and hope it helps you.

Too many people want to trickle the info and pretend they are giving you gold. A few hobbyists or people that can't afford to pay $300+ for repairs are not going to hurt their business.
Be safe and share knowlege freely!

The problem is, this part is dedicated to your set and it is a manufacturer part (OE) only unless it`s a common set. The next problem is that the LOPTX has got to be installed by an engineer who has to set it up as regards Screen feed and Focus Pots. You could try CPC in Preston, Charles Hyde in Pocklington or Willow-vale Electronics in Manchester but I think you`ll find that it`s a closed shop and they will demand you take it to a dealer who has an account with these suppliers. I came out of the trade four years ago, I`ve got all the necessary qualifications to fit these parts, but they won`t supply me because I`m not an account holder or a business where suppliers like these want to see your accounts for the year and make sure you have the qualified staff and funds to fit and pay for these dangerous high voltage parts. Good luck, Ian

Kind of sounds like open conections on a regulator ( bad solder) give it soft shake
and see if that causes it to work or not work.

need to replace convergence control ic's

check that the lamps are screwed in properly and reset the tv

regards

Check you HD inputs or source. Sounds like the red stream is missing; maybe a loose cable.

Do yo have the remote? Do you have the manual? Manuals are usually available online.
If you are feeding the Toshiba with cable wiring then the problem is with the Toshiba. Maybe something as simple as the wrong input is selected on the remote control. If you are feeding the Toshiba with audio and video cables then the input to the Toshiba would be suspect. Either cabling (the inputs and outputs are plugged in wrong. If you changed anything I would retrace your steps.

Let me know by clicking on 'ask me' and if solved please do the rating. Thanks.

There is a problem in the imaging circuitry in your Toshiba. It could be anything but most likely in the focusing circuitry. I would have a certified Toshiba repair on it.

sounds like theres a short in side with those connections, (possibly bad installation when it was assembled, may need repaired.

Yes look for www.bluestar-online.com and check your set and make sure it's the stk392-110. If you can solder you can carefully change it. I would replace all, you may have 2 or 3 in there. Also make sure you don't bridge the pins. Meaning soldering 2 pins together, just be careful. Unplug set and be careful of unscrewing board.