20 Most Recent Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection Television - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Your TV most likely has one of two possible problems.

Problem #1: Convergence Chip Failure ( common problem )

Here are some of the most common symptoms and example photos of a convergence problem

• Screen looks 3D
• Colors don't line up
• One or more colors can't be adjusted when using the convergence menu.
• Screen is bowed or warped.

Here is a quick test....

Using your original remote go-to the tv settings then goto the convergence section.

Try to adjust the red and then the blue convergence.



You should be able to move them up, down, left, and right.

If you can't move them in all directions your convergence chips are bad and should be replaced. This is a common problem.

Solution #1

You need to replace the convergence chips and convergence resistors. Check the site www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kits for most models. If you don't see a kit for your set send them a quick note and they will put one together for you. Their kits include a photo instruction guide, original OEM Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors, pico fuses, etc.


Problem #2 CRT Fluid is Cloudy

Projection TV tubes have a liquid coolant that is used to keep them from overheating. After many years the coolant in the blue and green tubes will become cloudy and cause the screen to look dull, red/orange, etc. You may even see halos around images.

Picture of a set that needs the fluid changed.


TV set after fluid change



Solution #2


What you will need to do is replace the coolant and clean the crt. You can get a repair kit from www.TvRepairKits.com that includes replacement coolant, photos. instructions, etc

this is a ground fault within the set. you will need to have a service co. take a look unless you are like me and just replace every board in the unit. (this only cost 200$ or so) you could try replacing the fuse (even if it looks good/sometime you just cant see little cracks in them)


:)

That is the convergence board that is causing the red curve line, if you replace the convergence IC's, or the convergence module that will fix your problem. Turning your set on while be real cold can cause problems, and that is probably what took out the convergence module.

just4moreyea,

I am assuming that you have tried to converge the unit. If not try that first. If the unit cannot complete the convergence process you have a problem with the convergence circuit. This is not a difficult procedure to repair but does require some good soldering skills and a good focus for detail. I have a tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r4220499-change_projection_tv_convergence_ics which explains the process, where to get parts at the best price and how to complete the repair.

Thanks for using FixYa and the great rating.

hardrocko

Hello,

You have to unplugged the HDMI cable coming from my DVR and replugged it in and it will work. It just needed to be reset or something.
enter the Settings -> Settings menu and find the output settings; enable native mode with 480i, 720p, and 1080i checked.

turn the unit off, then press and hold down the info and guide buttons until the setup screen appears; choose Advanced Setup and enable 4:3 480i, 720p, and 1080i; save that change, turn the box back on, and choose Passthrough/AutoDVI/AutoHDMI in Settings -> Settings menu. Pass through, AutoDVI, and HDMI all refer to the same setting, they are just named differently depending on whether you are using component, HDMI, or DVI cables.



Good luck in solving the problem......

u have bad green picture tube , this part is not longer avlible ,

Hi , i will suspect your convergence board is defective you have 2 ic call stk for convergence correction and pin cushion
and some low value resistor and different bad soldering ,all this needs to be replaced and then reajust ,you must have a digital
array button on the front panel button some an automatic set up call majic focus wheres you must be able to realing this but if you dont have this button is probably locate on the convergence board anyway the circuit needs to fix befor any attempt to make any adjustement ,you may need a tech to do it, ic cost about 20 box each theres two on the board and s its an hour jobs about , depend on the tech experience...
hope that will help
regards Alan

U hear alots of clickings,when power turn on?Yes,the tv projection lamp might be dead also,require replacing?But the board call the Ballast board is 100% dead.This Ballast board job,it to help to ignite the tv projection lamp.Tries websites like Partstore.com,Ebay.com to buy parts like projection lamps and Ballast boards for DLP projection tvs brands.

Projection TV sets are known to have two common problems. The first problem that is common to these sets is convergence failure. When this happens the TV will usually look 3D, Wavy/Distorted, etc. It may also shutdown and blink an error code.

The second common problem with Projection TV sets is dull video, halos around objects, white looking video, or red overpowers the screen. This is commonly caused by the fluid in the lens being clouded overs.

You can find more details and solutions here on Fixya at the following link below. Or click HERE


http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

If you have some garbage in the main processor you need to leave it unplug for 40 MIN, to reset it back to normal. If that don't work then you need to check for a shorted horizontal transistor, mounted on a metal heat sink near the fly back transformer, that is what turns your high voltage on.. If that is good , then the next common problem would be is a bad convergence module, and you are looking at around 400 on repairs.

Lamp is blown. time to replace, the lamp not the TV.

This model uses a "HYPER" BOARD to process all signal from all inputs.

These sets have a history of tiny surface mounted capacitors on that board failing with age---they dry out inside.

Usually it will clear up as the caps get hot but over time it will take longer and longer to clear up.

The board is no longer available from Toshiba and the only way to fix is remove the board and send it out for rebuild---last one I did cost over 200 for the rebuild.

I have had a few on this site with this problem who were able to do the repair themselves, it involves getting the board out and real skill at soldering.

If this told you something you did not know, rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

Take out the batteries,put it back in an hour later.Now,the remote is resetting.Should work now.Not,than the remote CPU Chip is dead.Sorry the remote it junk now.Try website like Remotes.com to buy an exact to the original remote or very close compatible one.

If picture looks 3d in some way, it is convergence problem and common.

It can be a do it yourself repair and I can tell you how and what is needed for free.

Let me know if I can help, I do this here for free.


SD TECH

Install the convergence repair kit for your model. You can get the convergence repair kit for your model at www.tvrepairworld.com which also comes with instructions.

Working from the point of view of the power cord, the first module that is generally encountered is the power supply. Search for a service manual, sometimes user manuals will also have a schematic, to help you troubleshoot the power supply section. If you are lucky, the power supply board will have the outputs stenciled on the PCB itself, making the task of verifying output voltages easier.

That is a very common problem these days to to either a blown fuse or a faulty power board which is the most common because the capacitors on them tend to overheat and burn out. Each cap has it's own voltage rating imprinted on it. You can use a meter to test to find the bad ones and replace them

johanna, most projection TV develop convergence circuit problems, this could be the cause of the green waves in the picture. Convergence correction is accomplished by a set(2) of converge power amplifiers, they usually quit due to excessive heat build up. The power cuts off or powers off because either one or both of the amplifiers short out and the protection circuit cuts the power off, some times the protection fuse or fuses blow out or open due to current excess. I recommend calling a TV repair shop and asking for a quick quote or a guess on what such a repair would run, but I think it would be around the 350 to 450 dollar range.

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