20 Most Recent Cuisinart CPT-180 Metal Classic 4-Slice Toaster Questions & Answers

The Instruction Booklet for the Cuisinart CPT-180C Classic Metal 4-Slice Toaster can be found at the following link:http://www.cuisinart.ca/pdf/ibs/en/CPT-180C_en.pdfNot sure what you are trying to open. There is a slide out catch tray for cleaning crumbs. There is no information in the booklet that suggests a need or a way to open the toaster.Perhpas reviewing the booklet will answer your question.

Before you take this in for repair, try taking it outside and turning it upside down and bang the heck out of it. Most times this problem is caused by bits of food and crumbs building up around the magnet that holds the lever down. Clean it out thouroghly and see if it starts working again. As far as who would work on this, most small appliance repair people will do this but as far as costs they can range anywhere from $25.00 to $50.00 depending on who you take it to and that may be cost prohibitive. You can howver try and find the parst for this on line and repair it yourself. parts should include a new electro magnet and all you have to do is mount it and wire it up. Most likely once you clean it it will work again and while your at it check and make sure the electro magnet has not fallen out of place and just is not contacting the metal fram that hodls the toast or on the handle in some models.

I repaired the same symtom that happend to one of the sides of my CPT-180 toaster. The magnets wouldn't engage due to a bad C1 capacitor on the circuit board that controlled that side of the toaster--the capacitor was bulged out on the bottom and turned out to be bad. I've attached some photos showing C1 bulged out compared to C1 on the good board. C1 is the main power supply capacitor and if it goes bad, the circuit board power supply won't function correctly. This can lead to a broad spectrum of problems like the lever not staying down due to the magnets not engaging or the toasting control/timing circuits malfunctioning. If you replace the capacitor, it is best in most cases to replace with the same value as the orginal (220uf on my toaster)---you can usually get a replacement capacitor at Fry's Electronics. Replacing with a higher capacitance may be acceptable, but you should understand the impact to the rest of the circuit before you substitute a higher capacitance value. The voltage rating and temperature rating of the replacement capacitor should be the same or greater or the capacitor will fail quickly. Note the max temperature rating of capacitor C1 is +105C---toasters get hot (duh!) and the temperature around the circuit board of this model gets quite warm, so the temperature rating of the capacitor is critical. Finally, make sure the substitute capacitor fits when installed (requires soldering) and does not interfere with surrounding circuitry or other toaster mechanics when the circuit board is put back in place. Pictures: C1_location (next to screw) Comparing_good_C1_with_bad_C1--note bulge on bottom of right C1 Right_orginal_C1_and_left_replacement_C1 Bad_C1 showing capacitance, voltage and max temperature ratings

Dale Anderson 1- Crumbs or part wearout may be keeping the plastic latch from engaging. If you have the toaster apart, you can compare the arm latching action of the good side with the bad side--maybe there is an obvious difference in the travel of the arm that keep it from engaging.---leaving the travel short even 1/8" can keep the latch from engaging. 2- If there is nothing obviously mechanically wrong, then it may be a control board malfunction. Make sure the 3-pin control board connector is plugged into the transformer/solenoid board. Since you are getting lights, this should be OK. You have at least one good board (the side that works) so you could plug that board into the other side to see if the arm stays down. For fun, you can plug the bad board into the other side to see if the other side now malfunctions. If the problem follows the board, then you have your answer. If you know someone that understands electronics, they may be able to repair the board--have them look at electrolytic capacitor C1 and make sure it is good. If that part is bad, it can be replaced for about $1 by going to Fry's and purchasing a replacement capacitor. After a couple of years of use, a defective C1 may "dry out" and cause control board problems.

• I repaired the same symtom that happened to one of the sides of my CPT-180 toaster. The magnets wouldn't engage due to a bad C1 capacitor on the circuit board that controlled that side of the toaster--the capacitor was bulged out on the bottom and turned out to be bad. I've attached some photos showing C1 bulged out compared to C1 on the good board. C1 is the main power supply capacitor and if it goes bad, the circuit board power supply won't function correctly. This can lead to a broad spectrum of problems like the lever not staying down due to the magnets not engaging or the toasting control/timing circuits malfunctioning. If you replace the capacitor, it is best in most cases to replace with the same value as the orginal (220uf on my toaster)---you can usually get a replacement capacitor at Fry's Electronics. Replacing with a higher capacitance may be acceptable, but you should understand the impact to the rest of the circuit before you substitute a higher capacitance value. The voltage rating and temperature rating of the replacement capacitor should be the same or greater or the capacitor will fail quickly. Note the max temperature rating of capacitor C1 is +105C---toasters get hot (duh!) and the temperature around the circuit board of this model gets quite warm, so the temperature rating of the capacitor is critical. Finally, make sure the substitute capacitor fits when installed (requires soldering) and does not interfere with surrounding circuitry or other toaster mechanics when the circuit board is put back in place. Pictures: C1_location (next to screw) Comparing_good_C1_with_bad_C1--note bulge on bottom of right C1 Right_orginal_C1_and_left_replacement_C1 Bad_C1 showing capacitance, voltage and max temperature ratings Jun 24, 2014

the spring arrangement responsible for this operation must be broken or dislocated fix it.

I repaired a problem with one of the sides of my CPT-180 toaster that was fixed by replacing C1. This may be the same component that Stan was referring to, as the C1 capacitor on the circuit board I was having problems with was bulging. I've attached some photos showing C1 bulged out compared to C1 on the good board. C1 is the main power supply capacitor and if it goes bad, the circuit board power supply won't function correctly. This can lead to a broad spectrum of problems like the lever not staying down or the toasting control/timing circuits malfunctioning. If you replace the capacitor, it is best in most cases to replace with the same value as the orginal (220uf on my toaster)---you can usually get a replacement capacitor at Fry's Electronics. Replacing with a higher capacitance may be acceptable, but you should understand the impact to the rest of the circuit before you substitute a higher capacitance value. The voltage rating and temperature rating of the replacement capacitor should be the same or greater or the capacitor will fail quickly. Note the max temperature rating of capacitor C1 is +105C---toasters get hot (duh!) and the temperature around the circuit board of this model gets quite warm, so the temperature rating of the capacitor is critical. Finally, make sure the substitute capacitor fits when installed (requires soldering) and does not interfere with surrounding circuitry or other toaster mechanics when the circuit board is put back in place. Pictures: C1_location (next to screw) Comparing_good_C1_with_bad_C1--note bulge on bottom of right C1 Right_orginal_C1_and_left_replacement_C1 Bad_C1 showing capacitance, voltage and max temperature ratings

We had exact the same problem. Our problem was within the circuit board controlling the release relay, on the left side. 3 parts was dead:
1) rectifier diode 200V 1amp
2) Electrolytic capacitor 220uF 25V
3 Zener diode 12V 1W
These components supplies 12VDC to the rest of the circuits from the mains, 127 VAC.

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