Top 20 Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater Questions & Answers

Maybe a bad sequencer.unplugged wire from sequencer and see it unit shut off .Sequencer is typically a relay

Does furnace fire up ,if not you have a issue with your furnace and not thermostat

poor Wire connection on the breaker? Is the wire screwed down tight? SHUT THE MAIN OFF FOR SAFETY, then pull the breaker off the buss bar and inspect the bussbar and bottom of breaker for any burn.

It’s helpful to also use and ampmeter to check equipment amp draw vs. the amp rating on the equipment tag.

The burners are not igniting and the timer turned on the blower thinking the burners were already lit by then. You have a burner/ignition problem. Either the ignighter or themocouple is bad

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Hello, The t-state set to fan "ON" will only cycle the fan to turn on only nothing else. "Auto" is where you always want the t-state on when you want to have heat and have the fan cycle off automatically after the t-stat has reached set point. As for the press switch, there can be two things that will cause the pressure switch not to close. 1: obviously the switch itself and 2: the inducer fan, this has the rubber tubing that connects to the pressure switch. When you call for heat, the inducer fan ( small fan with black plastic piece that spins ) is the first to turn on, this fan makes sure any left over exhaust air/gases are vented out before the burners turn on, it also stays on the entire heat cycle to exhaust the gases. The pressure switch needs proof of air so the pressure switch closes with the vacuum that is being created by the inducer fan in that rubber hose that is connected to the pressure switch. This allows the furnace to know " my induce fan is working, lets proceed". So, I would make sure your inducer fan is working. if you don't see it working then I recommend using a multi-meter ( VAC setting) and checking that you have 120volts supplied to the inducer fan. if you don't, then you need to work backward from there and see why you don't. If you do verify 120volts at your inducer motor, then more than likely it failed and will need a new one. Witch out this, your pressure switch wont close. If your inducer fan is working fine then make sure you have 24vdc across you pressure switch (again with a multi meter but with VDC setting not VAC). 24vdc in and 24vdc out. If you only have 24VDC in but not out, then you pressure switch may be stuck open. ( This is if your inducer fan is working properly). I hope this helps. Sorry for the long response. I just don't like people changing parts and wasting money.

Bypass the tstat first but that's where I'd be leaning. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

You say 2 to 3 years... I'm assuming the unit is older than that. Especially being r22. What about the first 10 years??? Normally you will get 400 to 500 sqft per ton of cooling, but, that depends on heat load calculations. If the unit wasn't big enough you would have had this issue 10 years ago, not when the system kept running low on refrigerant. At first guess I would say a 2 ton unit is not big enough but if it worked fine for 10 years...wuth all that in mind, if it were me, (a seasoned professional) I would spend 1800 to fix my 15 year old r22 unit before I spent $4000 on a new r410a piece of junk. Best Wishes!! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

is the thermostat set for heat and you have power going to the unit correct

Goodman Furnace Startup

When unit come on you need to watch the flames that shooting in all should blue. If there is any red flame kick out that would trip the flame role out switch. If the is the case you need a need heat exchanger.

Sounds like an open limit switch. The limit switch will open due the furnace overheating. Few reasons: 1) Dirty air filter 2) Dirty blower wheel/assembly 3) Weak Capacitor 4) Improper airflow across heat exchanger.

Coil is separate from furnace. remove screws to door and use a coil cleaner in addition pour some bleach in the drain pan to keep water flowing to outside

Turn off your power, remover both the upper and lower doors. You may have to disconnect some ''molex' plug connectors and you may have to remove some thermostat wires to gain access. If you remove any wires, WRITE them down as to what terminals they go back on. The molded plugs can only go on one way so don't be too concerned about their replacement UNLESS they are individual plastic plug ins for each wire. If so...WRITE down the location and proceed. There should be either 5/16" or 1/4" headed screws securing the blower assembly in place. The assembly itself is probably slid into position on sheet metal rails or into slots. When the proper two (usually) screws are removed, it will merely slide out the front of the furnace. Place it on the ground and look into the side of the assembly OPPOSITE of the motor. In there you will find a 5/16" square headed set screw. Remove that screw because it secures the blower wheel to the blower motor shaft. Clean rust, dirt and debris off the exposed shaft because that will inhibit the sliding of the shaft OUT of the wheels hub. Turn it over to the motor side up. There will be three bolts or scews securing the blower motor to the blower housing by means of a three legged 'spyder' mount. Remove them and work the motor and shaft OUT OF the blower wheel hub. You are now home free... the motor is removed. Reinstall in basically reverse of the removal procedure. Hopefully you have an IDENTICAL replacement, so there will be no wiring adaptions to figure out.

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Check bottom door for error codes

I assume this is gas . induced draft blower or ignitor.

ignition failure. insure air pressure switch closes, hot surface igniter is getting 120volts. check continuity on hot surface igniter, make sure all gas shut off valves are open and gas valve is turned on. make sure there is no blockage in the exhaust

The condenser drain line is clogged.

The burners need to be removed, cleaned and inspected. Any obstructions on the burners need to be thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush. changing burners to different compartment and still having the same problem in the original chamber, could be a defective heat exchanger.